Reinhoud

You can bore up the holes for the cylinder studs by 1mm, then you don't need external oil feed. You also need to drill the hole in the head till you reach the oil galley to the cams Don't forget to drill the hole in the headgasket too

Thanks. I thought you'd run about 10.000rpm. I think the GS and GSX didn't have limiters, but they don't rev that high anyway, I think. Your pistons are most likely more heavy then mine, so I should be all right revving it to 10.000rpm? I already thought this, but wasn't sure. It's a matter of better save then sorry. Expensive hobby when it goes wrong

Gents, I've got a GS1000 with a 1247cc big bore on it, I have 493 con rods on it. I've gor forged pistons in it who weigh 257 grams each. My rev limiter is set at 9000rpm. My question; I don't have a clue how many revs my engine can do without blowing up. I know that piston speed is a very important thing. I don't have a clue if the weight of the piston is a limit in the amount of revs it can make. As far as my information goes a GSX1100 goes to 10.000rpm? Anyone who knows a thing or 2 in this regard? Thanks

Thought so, wasn't sure. That's all in that kit

What do you mean with the rack?

https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsx1100-mtc-lock-up-clutch/903/

The con rod on the crank is from a GS1000

That's when a con rod of my bike snapped

Weld wise I wouldn't be too worried! But your rods, are that 492's? My 493's have very clear 493 on it, my stock GS1000 haven't got a real number on them.. I was told my stock rods should be able to handle 200hp, but one snapped, or they can't handle 200hp, or I accidently did something right..

492 should be strong enough! I'm aware about the other stuff you mention, that's why I don't have the guts to go above 9000rpm. I hardly go over 7000rpm

492 rods? How/where is it welded?

Not sure how the swing arm looks like, but what I can find on the www, isn't the Bandit swingarm way better? Looks and size/strength wise?

I'm pretty sure there's a guy, he might be on OSS, who put a GSX1100 and later an oil boiler in a GS550 frame. @bruteforce, wasn't that you?

I think it might be something in the alternator cover

Vacuum hose, put a bolt in one end, put the other end in your ear, and hold the bolt to the crankcase, you'll hear from which area the rattle comes from.

By looking at the photo's, the side of the cage looks alright, if that's indeed the case, then the rollers can only have fallen out when you took the clutch out. Unless everything is really worn, the rollers can't get out other then the side of the cage.

Gents, I've got something in my head, and I'd like to know what the possibilities are.. I ruined my TD04 turbo already (not enough oil), I've got a VF20 lying around, it's pretty easy to make the core fit in the TD04 housing, the compressor wouldn't be to hard to make fit either. The VF20 is just a bit smaller than the TD04, I've read somewhere that all the cores from the ball bearing VF turbo's are the same. Does anyone knows if the shaft of a VF23 fits into a VF20? I can't find any dimensions Thanks

https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/digital-ignition-zdg-3-23-for-suzuki-gs1000.html https://www.Eblag.com/itm/193274636562?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050

The seal was in my engine like that too

Right size hoses?

I've been fidling around with the air screws, adjusted them till the AFR read 12, seems to run best on that. I did the tuning this time after a 50km ride, I think that made a difference too I also raised the idle rpm a little bit, just a little bit, and now it runs fine. have to get used to the higher idling, almost 1500rpm, pretty sensitive in that rev range

I've got the bike going again!! Turned out that the expanders from the oil rings were the culprits, smoking is solved, no leaks. The TD04 turbo is installed, carburfuckingettors are adjusted/tuned. There's a difference with the turbo's I must say..

Aha, will do. That's something I wouldn't have thought of myself.. Can I test that by spraying brake clear or something else flammable on the carbs while the engine is running?

Gents, I just can't get my idling right. After a ride the revs on idle go up and down, now it looks like it's sort of running on 3 cylinders, runs a bit "heavy". When the engine isn't real hot it seems to be alright, as soon as I open the throttle it runs fine Been turning the idle srews in and out, can't find the sweet spot. Valve clearence, sync, ignition is all ok. AFR seems to be fine too. Anyone who might have an idea what might be wrong? Thanks