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1 hour ago, gsx said:

Looks mint , how'd you get that crystal effect?

Unless Balders does it differently its a bottled chemical reaction liquid mask applied on top off base coats, involves a few paint layer applications and rubbing down with scotchbrite to remove liquid mask to reveal crystal look, best practiced first to get grips with achieving good results, 

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On 27.05.2017 at 2:49 PM, baldrick said:

well i kinda followed the guidelines.

What do you reckon?

Its still to be clear coated and there are a couple of adhesive marks from the masking tape, but overall im happy and think the crystals ROCK!!!

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hey! looks like we are starting a fashion here on this grey structured paint jobs ;)

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14 hours ago, kiwi said:

Unless Balders does it differently its a bottled chemical reaction liquid mask applied on top off base coats, involves a few paint layer applications and rubbing down with scotchbrite to remove liquid mask to reveal crystal look, best practiced first to get grips with achieving good results, 

From memory they use Urea crystals.

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  • 1 month later...

well, progress has been slow, due to my compressor going tits up, but we are back on track now.

side panels have black and white on em, just need to do the magic crystal effect on the white, spray it black and clear coat the lot.

2nd pic shows the wurth replast before filler.  great stuff

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4 hours ago, baldrick said:

I love candy , ...........doo be dooo bee

if you are a child of the 80's and liked punk, this will make sense to you.

Todays progress.

Stay tuned for the big reveal, its still wet

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Bow wow wow to you bud lol. I luv the candy red. That is a top notch paint job 

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well I have clearcoated these parts now, but since my shed doesn't exactly have state of the art extraction system, there were a few small specs of dust in it. 

No problem I thought, I will flow coat it.So I wet and dry sanded them at 1500 grit, then mixed my clear for flow coating (this is just an extra coat or 2 of clear, to give the shine a real depth to it) I applied the Suzuki stickers and fired on, as you do,.

It was all looking good after the first coat, so I left it 10 mins to tack off, then returned to find a bloody great run under the decal. (despite giving it a light grey scothbrite before application)

I couldn't do anything about it so tried to blow it off the panel with yet more clear, nope didn't work.

So here is a little trick if you ever find yourself with the runs.

First get some Imodium, oh no that's different runs. 

If you coat the area with a fine filler, it can be sanded down, without the risk of going through the rest of the clearcoat, and the filler acts as a guide. I masked off the area, because the rest of it is perfect. 

 

Start on 240, then 400 then 600, finish with 1200 or even better 1500, then polish when its cured.

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Heres the mudguard, just needs to cure then it will be polished etc.

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Thanks man, I appreciate it.

To be honest its much much easier if you have decent kit. I used to try and spray with cans, and ok, some people can get a half decent result out of them, but its much much easier with proper preparation (most important of all, if your prep is crap, the end result will be crap), a compressor, a decent spray gun. (at the right settings), and proper materials, from masking tape  to paint, thinners, primers etc .

I'm no expert . I just f*ck about in my 8 by 6 shed, but I'm pretty pleased with it, if I say so myself.

I'm doing a katana after I finish the harris bits, but it should be easier, since it will just be standard silver, and its already primered.

I havnt seen anything that looks better than the standard silver on a katana, to be honest.

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That is stunning work there mate (y) 

agree on the Kat silver....years ago I rattle canned a helmet as an experiment in Vauxhall/Opel anthracite grey with some laser cut 

decals from the tail end of a pop-up in bright red. Turned out good and I always thought it would look ok on a Kat. Nissan starburst silver is the nearest to the Suzuki 13L I think.

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Thanks for the kind comment.

All of the paint factors I spoke to had that infamous 13L code down as a car colour,,  and its not even a silver, so its either the wrong code or its Suzuki motorcycle specific. or all the paint factors ive spoken to are wrong.

 I have a nice metallic silver basecoat, which I usually use for basecoat before candy, and will use that, might add some silver pearlescent powder, to the clear, but not decided yet. (mostly because its expensive stuff to buy, and you only need a miniscule amount

 

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Yes I do as it happens. I did a load of research before buying mine and plumped for a Devilbiss FLG 5.

I would definitely recommend a devilbiss FLG5, with a 1.4 tip set up. Get yourself a ANI in line pressure guage/ adjuster. This will tell you the exact pressure at your gun, because the air loses pressure between the compressor regulator and the gun, and they are about 15 quid

IThe devilbisss is about 95 quid, but will last you for years.. Or if its just small parts, you could do much worse than a ANI R150 minigun, they are around 75 quid.

I would go the extra for the devilbiss, its built to last

I had a cheapo gun to start with but they are not great to be honest. the seals on them go,and the atomisation pattern isn't even in the same league as the devilbiss, because they are made cheaply in china.

The devilbiss makes life easier, and a 1.4 tip will do your base colours and clearcoat. If you want to,  Just buy a cheapo with a 1.8 tip for  primer/ filler, you can always sand it down.

I still use my cheapo gun, but only for primer/ filler, and flake (flake kills them).Don't even think about doing it without the proper mask either, the stuff is deadly, carcinogens the lot, nasty shit

I know its a fair bit to outlay at once, but its cheaper than a professional job, and you will have it for years to come.

Good luck.

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Thanks for the replies,

I have been using a cheepo gun for the filler and primer coats, I've also used it to spray some thinned out white smoothrite on my slingy wheels. Worked OK.

But next step will be the proper paint. Ill take a look at your recommendations.  Cheers..

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