Blue Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 Set out to a bike meet I’ve heard about, which is about 20 miles away. After about 1.25 miles the bike suddenly cut out then back fired, I clutched in & rolled to a stop. Checked fuel hoses not crinked, tried to start but no go! Checked fuses but none blown! For some reason I thought I’d take right side engine cover off as I always carry an Allen key in my leathers, I found this- so I had to push it back home! Q1 will timing etc be ok? Q2 which model rotors fit my 1127? Q3 what’s inside the hole at the bottom? Quote
wraith Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 Two Q, 1. Why did the screw come out of the timing plate? (hole above the stamped 2-3) 2. Where did the bust but if the rotor go? Or have you got it? b12 one mite work? Quote
Blue Posted August 23, 2018 Author Posted August 23, 2018 A1 no idea. A2 it was there but it’s dissapeared, not sure if it fell out as cover was replaced loose whilst I pushed bike home. Can I use this lot from B12 mk2 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) Have to tell you that isn't an 1127 rotor or pick up plate! Its an earlier 1052 type! And re Piccy above - you'll need the corresponding Spark box and because its a Blandit you'll need the Blandit Ignition switch or a way of 'fooling' the electrics to work! Edited August 23, 2018 by Gixer1460 Quote
Sam-Jaffa Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 im pretty sure most of the oilcooled (not slabby) run the same trigger Quote
Sam-Jaffa Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 Just now, Gixer1460 said: Have to tell you that isn't an 1127 rotor or pick up plate! Its an earlier 1052 type well spotted Quote
Blue Posted August 23, 2018 Author Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) So a previous owner has used a 1052 rotor then? Is this setup ok? The Dyno man said he thought there is an electrical problem, like a switch going on & off real fast could this be the problem? I haven’t noticed it whilst riding though Edited August 23, 2018 by Blue Quote
johnr Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 perhaps his original broke when the screw fell out........ 1 Quote
MeanBean49 Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 That setup is fine to be used with the correct cdi. Which you must have or wouldnt run at all otherwise. Im guessing it has a 1052 loom too, the cdi plugs are different on 1052's iirc. All oil cooled motors with single pickups are the same pickup, rotors can be different shapes but all fit and work fine with whatever cdi you use. Bandit cdi's have different plug to gsxr's and have a security/resistor that you need to bypass if you dont have bandit ignition barrell. Your easiest fix is to get another 1052 rotor Quote
Blue Posted August 23, 2018 Author Posted August 23, 2018 Ok thanks, I was just looking at wiring diagram & I saw that the slabby has 8 wire cdi & later has 7 wires. When I wired up the bike I copied the slabby diagram Quote
Oilyspanner Posted August 23, 2018 Posted August 23, 2018 The broken off part off the rotor looks to be lurking under the forward pick-up with the green wire. Could've been worse Blue. 1 Quote
Blue Posted August 23, 2018 Author Posted August 23, 2018 7 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said: The broken off part off the rotor looks to be lurking under the forward pick-up with the green wire. It was but it’s not there now! Quote
Jaydee Posted August 24, 2018 Posted August 24, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said: Your easiest fix is to get another 1052 rotor @Blueif you need a 1052 dual picks and rotor, I think I have some on a top end wanked motor under the bench. Just have to double check but pretty sure there on it. Edited August 24, 2018 by Jaydee Quote
Blue Posted August 24, 2018 Author Posted August 24, 2018 What’s in the hole at the bottom? Where do it lead to? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 24, 2018 Posted August 24, 2018 1 hour ago, Blue said: What’s in the hole at the bottom? Where do it lead to? What do you mean? The void below the oil pressure switch?........................... crankshaft, rods, gears, sump and oil ! Quote
Blue Posted August 24, 2018 Author Posted August 24, 2018 Ah thanks, maybe a good idea to find broken part Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 24, 2018 Posted August 24, 2018 So, it was stuck to the pick-up magnet (steel obviously) in 1st picture and now its not? Did you remove the screw? How could you not notice the 'fairly obviously broken rotor tip' and not pull it off the magnet! Problem is - it may have picked up a weak magnetic field from the magnet and so will stick (fairly weakly) to anything steel it touches. So IF it has fallen down past the switch, there are a lot of steel bits it can interfere with before it gets to the sump! Best drain the oil and if it's not in that then sump off and pray it's there ! Quote
CockneyRick Posted August 28, 2018 Posted August 28, 2018 Red circle= broken tip Blue circle= Screw that fell out & probably broke the tip off Quote
colinworth79 Posted August 30, 2018 Posted August 30, 2018 I've had 3 oil cooled engine have bolts missing from this plate. One on my bandit bolt fell out and went between the crank and cam chain snapping the chain. I always remove the bolts and lock tight them in now when I get an oil cooled motor. 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.