Captain Chaos Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 I know the clutch cover can be swapped between 750 and 1127 engines, but how about the operating mechanism? On my Powerscreen lump (GSX1100F) I want to install the clutch cover and cable and lever etc from a GSX-R750M. I have all the parts (both engines complete), will it work? Thanks in advance - CC Quote
wobblegob Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) No different clutch mech altogether as far as i know, but somebody more knowledgeable will no doubt be along Edited August 23, 2019 by wobblegob because Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 23, 2019 Author Posted August 23, 2019 yes I know, one "pushes" the pressure plate and the other "pulls" it. Looking at the part diagrams, the thrust bearings are the same, so the release rack (17) from the Slingy should fit in the pressure plate of the 1100. Unless I'm missing something completely here it should work. Where are those adults when you need them? 750M clutch Quote
wraith Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 Are you putting the full 750m clutch in the 1100f? As the main things I can see is number 17 and number 13 apart from the 1100f being a 4 bolt clutch and the 750m a 6 bolt clutch. are the primary drives on the back of the clutch baskets the same? if not have you thought about drilling the centre of the clutch outer plate so it can take the number 17? Maybe no not the answer you wanted Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 23, 2019 Author Posted August 23, 2019 not swapping any clutch bits, only number 17. Now I don't remember if the Powerscreen pressure plate already has the hole in the center or not. If not I'll drill it, but I want to know if it works before opening up my only rideable (at the moment) bike. Quote
wraith Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 One thing answered The rest sorry cannot help 1 Quote
jameskat Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 Copied form a site called Krypt racer, now gone, but available without photos on waybackmachine 21/08/2016. Have never been fond of any of the OEM crossover clutch release offerings. Ditto with hyd clutch release set ups and all the extra related parts/problems. GS/EFE style rack/arm with a cable to operate offers the best feel and reliability. Came standard on oil cooled 750 R models 88-91. MTC spacer and reworked 1100 pusher is all it takes to convert with non- lockup applications. Use the oem clutch rack that comes with cover. If the smooth cover is used the clutch rack may have to be shortened slightly. MTC extended length clutch rack is required to clear the length of the weight arms on lock-up applications. CRG Supersport lever and OEM cable works flawlessly. A few clutch racks that are available.....Left to Right as follows; #1 is a slightly shorter modded srad unit that is needed if the smooth cover is used. #2 is a 88/89 750 R model that comes with the dimpled cover and can be used as/is. #3 came from a RF 900 w/ coil spring clutch. #4 is an extended length GS/EFE unit from MTC for use with lock up applications. The item on the far right is a modded 1100 hyd release unit. Remove the standard hump(?) and grind it just flush/flat, needs .003-.005 end play from backside of rack when everything is installed/tight.Bearings/shim(s) are OEM. May have to use 2 shims , then again maybe not. On the 89 750 cover w/MTC spacer everything went in as standard when using OEM pressure plate with out the lock up. Lock up install is still being sorted. Bit of trail & error here but worth it as the 750 rack/arm set up beats any of the OEM crossover pushrod installs. MTC spacers are about 90.00 US or so plus shipping. If no lock-up is used either the coil spring clutch or the later 89-up clutch in a 1052 basket is a straight forward install. Cut down hyd release pusher is there to keep the rack from falling in while installing the cover. Simple plug machined to the proper dims could also be used. 89 750 cover/rack on the left - Smooth cover and cut SRAD rack on the right. Cut 1100 pusher unit is a common as is the MTC 1.250 thick spacer. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 23, 2019 Author Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) according to that article the '88-'89 model has a dimpled cover and the '90-'91 has a smooth cover, should be the other way round. Or am I not reading it correctly? I guess the only way to know for sure is to just try it. Edited August 23, 2019 by Captain Chaos Quote
Duckndive Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 6 hours ago, Captain Chaos said: I know the clutch cover can be swapped between 750 and 1127 engines, but how about the operating mechanism? On my Powerscreen lump (GSX1100F) I want to install the clutch cover and cable and lever etc from a GSX-R750M. I have all the parts (both engines complete), will it work? Thanks in advance - CC I assume you are referring to the cover that has the cable mount top right and the cable runs around the engine if so yes "well it did on a motor on the bench"............ Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 24, 2019 Author Posted August 24, 2019 7 hours ago, Duckndive said: I assume you are referring to the cover that has the cable mount top right and the cable runs around the engine yes Clive. If it works on the bench, it might also work on the road. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 24, 2019 Author Posted August 24, 2019 just had a look. It would work, but I need a spacer for the clutch cover, which I do not have. The idea was to use only standard Slingy parts for this swap, but that's not possible. Quote
dupersunc Posted August 24, 2019 Posted August 24, 2019 @Markz9has done this conversion recently. It's not quite as simple as the article above makes out. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 24, 2019 Author Posted August 24, 2019 the Powerscreen lump in my 750L now has a Teapot 600 clutch cable and sprocket cover, but I've never been happy about the cable routing. That's why I want to install the original Slingy 750 clutch mechanism. Added benefit would have been that I could use the Teapot parts on my B12 engined EFE, which now has hydraulic clutch operation with a f@cked master cilinder. Quote
Duckndive Posted August 24, 2019 Posted August 24, 2019 5 hours ago, Captain Chaos said: just had a look. It would work, but I need a spacer for the clutch cover, which I do not have. The idea was to use only standard Slingy parts for this swap, but that's not possible. oooh I had a lock-up and spacer on mine ..but did not think stock would need one...... every days a skool day Quote
Dezza Posted August 25, 2019 Posted August 25, 2019 Is there any specific reason to using the 750M cover for a cable clutch conversion when the 600 Blandit/600-750 teapot sprocket cover method is so easy? Quote
Duckndive Posted August 25, 2019 Posted August 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Dezza said: Is there any specific reason to using the 750M cover for a cable clutch conversion when the 600 Blandit/600-750 teapot sprocket cover method is so easy? The cable run is much better Quote
Captain Chaos Posted August 25, 2019 Author Posted August 25, 2019 what Clive said. Original cable run is much better, on the right side of the engine. 1 Quote
jonny1bump Posted September 1, 2019 Posted September 1, 2019 Yes you make a spacer bit like lock up clutch type. Or you just go complete AWOL and come up with something totally different. Quote
Markz9 Posted September 25, 2019 Posted September 25, 2019 Hello boys yes this conversion is possibly it works a lot better the the worm drive on the bandit 600 sprocket cover also allow the battery to mounted there instead 2 Quote
Markz9 Posted September 26, 2019 Posted September 26, 2019 I can give more details if anyone is interested but the mtc cover needs machining down or you have to an extra long clutch centre puller the are ground finish and not cheap to buy 2 Quote
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