boilerdude

I cured the stumble I was having... It was not to do with the slides being plugged. That is fine. What happened was I installed the brass float valve thingy's from my bandit carbs. They had 4 cross vents whereas the gsxr750m units had no vents. I thought to myself "I'm sure they're the same thing the newer ones are just a better design" So I installed those brass thingy's out of the bandit carbs. And used a mix match of the needle valve thingy's thinking they're all the same... Well this last time I had them apart. I decided to do some closer examination. The 750m float needles do not match up correctly inside the brass thingy's out of a bandit. Not all mikuni bst parts are as interchangeable as they look at first glance...

Yea I was wondering which is which... i'll figure it out.

I have this factory pro jet kit and it says epoxy one of the holes in each plastic slide. just curious whats that changes.

which tail is that? is it stock subframe?

I forget where I saw this bike and I was an idiot not to save the image or the website. Simply put. It was a hayabusa with a fairing kit that made it look like a slabby... Slabby replica fairing kit for hayabusa. Ive seen one. Probably a one off but if anybody knows where such things can be bought I would like to know. On that note... Somebody should make that stuff. Slabby lookalike kits for newer gsxr 750-1000 and hayabusa.

also block the jets on #2 so you dont just have fuel running into your oil. And you're all set.

The lack of a choke is annoying. You have to have your pilot circuit just right or the bike will either be super cold blooded. Or if you have it towards the rich side to make sure the fucker starts without overheating the starter every time... Then you'll be using more fuel...

If its gsxr it will have 2 fuel hoses. You have 2 main hoses one is feeding carbs 1 and 2 and 1 hose is feeding carbs 3 and 4. Bandit just has 1 fuel hose to serve all 4...

mangle and tune with gorilla tape.

Depending on region... our US model 1100 M and N did not get the 40mm carbs but stayed with bst36ss even throughout the water cooled years.

There's one site where it says just a bearing change and 1100 calipers and thats all you need and it goes right on (and then calipers after). One site says you need slingshot speedo drive but nothing about machining it down... one says you have to have the thingy machined down a little bit. One site says I need a special collar made for between the bearings to support the inner races. So obviously lots of people have done it and lots of those people forget how the hell they did it. Or people just like being vague and letting you figure it out on your own. Either way all of the condradiction and convolution and vagueness of this whole thing that countless people have done before frustrates me. When I get this done I will have it documented In the most painstaking detail that I can possibly muster. So that one day somebody can just order the right parts before they even begin and have the whole thing done in one easy session.

I'm in the states. How much trouble you think it would be? Also I'd kinda like the package if thats available for archiving purposes. For anybody else doing this in the future. I want every single detail and part and custom part or modification and measurement required for this entire thing to be on one thread with no loose ends. When I finally do this I'm going to youtube it and tell people exactly everything thats involved including part numbers and if I need any special spacers or support collars or mods I will provide exact measurements.

shit that might not be the right one

There's the info I needed. 6204... Except I need 15 instead of 20 for the I'd

If they're the right ones I'm interested. What is the OD anyway. And the width on those. https://www.amscovf.com/BALL-BEARINGS_c_32827.html trying to hunt them down here... I like to have stuff before I get started. So I have minimal time getting nagged at for having bikes apart in the garage.

maybe... I'm saying I have to run both adjusters all the way out and there's still noticeable slack. Maybe I'm mistranslating what I feel in the throttle tube to actual cable slack. But still. it's not snug and tight like most people have it. And is unable to be.

well crumbs

shit imean the 1052 rods... right you may want to use the 1052 rods...

Something tells me you would want to use bandit or busa rods anyway. That would be sweet if busa rods work. long rod short stroke. nice straight piston pulls. Now I have another related noob question. You could probably afford to raise the rev limiter from stock 1052 perhaps? Which part do I change to do that. Like perhaps use the 88 750 ignition thingy.

Just to ask the question. Anybody ever do this and can it work? Just because ridiculous oversquare fun. and end up with some weird 800 or 900 something displacement.

a little wear on that plastic thing shouldn't matter much. Those look like DJ needles. So I'm guessing it's a DJ kit with DJ jets. You might wanna try 150 or 155 if you still have those laying around. Or the 152.5 or whatever it is.

also that thing is badass. I wanna hop on and take it sideways all around the nearest golf course.

od and id and also width which needs to be the same as old gsxr correct?

which brand jet kit? did it come with pilots? which pilots are in there? indeed you could try the needles in the middle setting. see if that makes it better or worse. The mixture screws seem to affect off idle and part throttle mostly. Like when you crack the throttle for a downshift is it crisp and responsive or does it cough half the time. Try the screws 2 or 3 turns out. if the problem is worse then I'd almost say go to 5 turns out... But at that point that means you could use bigger pilots I think.

Just the bearings is all I'm looking for. For swapping the slingshot front wheel to an 86 slab. Supposedly there's some alternator bearing thats the right fit. But the link I thought I had is dead.