boilerdude

Ok Ive got them fitted to the bike and almost ready to run. Here's the main things Ive run into so far. Just to round it up and put it all on the first post. You need the bigger intake boots off of the gsxr 750. You need to use the bandit petcock but you also need one small part off of the gsxr750 petcock. Just the vacuum thingy off the back of it. Swap that onto the bandit petcock. yes it's only 4 bolts instead of 5 It's fine just put the gsxr one on there. You will need to grind down 2 tiny plastic posts on the plastic gasket mating surface of the bandit petcock. Since the gsxr vacuum port does not have those holes... Then you will need to grind down just a millimeter or two off of the bandit petcock indicator between the "Prime" and "On" positions. Just a little tiny bit... Also you need the spring out of the gsxr petcock vacuum port... It works fine. 2 fuel lines on the gsxr carbs. Only one line coming out of the bandit petcock. Use a t fitting. simple enough. Some plug wires may need rerouted so you can fit that weird black filter box thingy the 38s have. The fuel hoses dont fit just in front of the K&N filters like you would think they ought to. You'll have to run a line back around the filters or squeeze the 2 fuel lines in front of the rack thingy and smush them in there beside the float vents.

The needle And the pilot circuit do have some overlap. When you raise your needles or at least when I do I notice my idle goes up slightly as well. My 1st gen bandit 1200 seemed happiest on smaller pilots. 35 or 32.5. And the needle around middle setting. There are 6 slots if I'm not mistaken. One of the 2 middle ones.

shit sorry.. 750 engine... not just the carbs. whole gsxr 750 plant.... in a gs 550. gotcha. sorry.

I'm no expert here but wouldnt 155 mains be entirely too big for a gs550?

If you change the pan it's good to also change out the actual sump to match.

here in the US none of our round headlight slingshots had usds. Only beginning with lego tail lights did we get upside down forks.

How can you tell an 89-90 apart? conventional forks on 89?

compression according to the manual is 175 HOT!!! WITH THE MOTOR HOT!!! Im trying to make sure you HAVE THE MOTOR HOT!!! when you check because IF YOU DONT HAVE THE MOTOR HOT!!! you're not going to get that 175. THE MOTOR NEEDS TO BE HOT TO GET AN ACCURATE READING. If it's cold and you just do the test cold then YES you are going to see more like 150...

You could go on danmoto and just pick out a new pipe...

Just so we're all on the same page here. You did the compression test HOT right? Because if it's cold 140-150 is a good reading.

Lets just say "hypothetically" that sometimes at a stop light I just hold the clutch in instead of engaging neutral. My idle is alittle high and I do this to avoid the first gear clunk. Whats the first thing to wear out from holding the clutch in too much?

nope. it is erect and true.

Right... well this is starting to piss me off. May have to let the dealership sort it out. I hate investing time into something that still doesnt work afterward. Really takes the wind out of my sails.

If you havent ridden a slabby before I suggest you try before you buy. They are very different handling and seating positioning. Different from slingshots or anything else. Very unique but not for everybody. Personally I'd go with the slingshot. A little more modern ergonomics. Not as cramped. A little more ground clearance.

So nothing is wrong with my rod. It is smooth and flawless. Other bikes would be envious of a rod that nice. Starting to think it's something with the master. Does the master ever tend to fail in a way that leaves pressure in the line/ does not allow return?

Just got a set. actually just got a whole 750m parts bike. wheels for my slabby and carbs for for something and a bunch of other goodies to either use or sell.

Yea I have the cover off and rod out. Neither of the ends look out of normal. I'll go back out there in a bit and measure my rod. It's cold out right now though so the reading may not be entirely accurate.

Hi guys. have a bandit 12 problem. My clutch is starting to grab early. Just barely even disengages. So I took the (sprocket) cover off. The piston looks like it's wanting to stay out. The pushrod doesn't seem to be pushing back out of the bike like it should. The piston has even pushed that little tin guard out. There's slight chain marks on it. When I let the clutch out it locks at halfway as if something is simply bad with the hydraulics but that doesn't seem to be the case with the piston hyper extending like it is. The rod seems to be going too far and not returning. This happened somewhat suddenly in a ride. No signs of it prior. Sorry Ive never had to maintain the clutch on anything before aside from hydraulics. Anybody have an idea of what it likely needs inside there? So I can have the thing before I get started.

There is one or 2 ways you could have installed the floats incorrectly. There's a place or 2 that looks like maybe you're supposed to put an oring there but you're not... Happened to me once anyway. I had these rebuild kits and there were some extra orings i dunno so I tried putting them in extra places . And then I noticed fuel pouring out of my k&ns.

I have many complete extra bandit 1200 wheels laying around. anybody know what slingshot or slabby bits I need to fit them to a slabby (1100)? I know the front disks are too small and the wrong offset. Will slabby disks work or do i need slingshot ones. will they bolt to the bandit wheel. what spacers do i need. Does the bandit speedo drive happen to be the same as slingshot? hows about the rear. any difference between bandit and slingshot (5.5) rear wheel. spacers different? rotor offsets. calipers? sorry just trying to get all the pieces I need before I get cracking

Just out of curiosity captain chaos. Would you mind sharing your settings for 750m carbs on a 1127?

Nevermind that. but hey what about bandit 12 wheels?

So I need the slingshot/wc speedo drive and that needs 2mm shaved off it. what exactly did you have to pry on to get the rear on?

you sure the float assys and all the orings are installed correctly? for example there is an oring that looks like it could fit perfectly in where the needle plug goes to help it seal correctly. But actually that oring goes over top of the thing. You just drop the plug in first. then the oring just helps to seal the thingy onto the other thingy..

about to grab a complete 750k for parts for $600.