boilerdude

Thinking about selling that and starting over with a clean low mileage blandit 1200s. upper fairing and all. Black. With those wheels on it.

there's mine. Brought out of rural indianapolis area. The flatlands. Mulletville for sure. Painted with incorrectly placed gsxr750r "RR" logos which it is of course not. Mikuni rs38s on it but they are pissing out everywhere and corroded and the throttle is stiff as a rock. I'm going to probably have to scrap those for cvs before I can even street it. Oh it's a 7/11 btw. V710 serial on the motor. But it does leak out way too much oil to ride as well and the swap was done halfass with still the 1100 oil pan on there. resting against the exhaust... Tires are cracked. been sitting for years. Chain and sprockets. All that. The grips and some of the cables and bolts are tarnished and rusty and ugly up close. Inside the tank is fair... Bike does have legitimate 7000 miles but it was drag raced for a lot of them. Also it has fox twin clicker probably in need of service and very nice steering stabilizer attached to a slug of metal welded nicely onto the frame there. It's not entirely hopeless. But most importantly the wheels are really really nice and straight and I really really wanted them. And now I have them.

Ok I have all that stuff. Just havent gone to try it yet. I recently bought a 750L in so so condition. but it has these wheels Ive wanted for years now. In very decent shape. I'm thinking about selling the 750L back out there and keeping these wheels for a clean blandit build or my E Those are just google images to show the wheels.

yea you've already done everything thats worth the effort on a 750 teapot motor. Nothing else you do to it is gonna make it rip your tits off. Your best option at this point is a bigger plant.

The front rotors are a different offset. Other than that is there any difference between 1st gen bandit 12 wheels and slingshot wheels for swapping between bikes?

b12 motor. It's not an 1100

That thing makes it so the emulsion tubes dont wear so badly. It replaces the plastic donut part on the needles which basically fits down into the slide incorrectly as stock an causes havoc on the emulsion tubes. This part made ^^^ (4 of them, 1 for each needle) will remedy that problem so the needles sit like they really should in the slides. Just looking at them I'm sure they help immensely. Many more worry free miles out of your emulsion tubes. awesome share btw blue.

Jesus. Check what? Check the valves every 3k miles? Really?

"they all do that" is good enough for me pretty much...

I thought the e was aluminum? Still though I hear ya. 80's... Also some of the factory welds on this thing. I think the hammer god may have been lazy with his blessings on some of the US bound bikes. Some of the cavities in these welds. Yeesh... But as long as it doesnt fall apart she's still my e...

I wonder what shifts or warps and why and stuff.

Unfortunately you guys have so much more specialty motorcycle shops than we have on this whole bullshit continent. Imean I could probably take it somewhere and have somebody "try" to do that and probably fuck it up worse. Here in the states... I love your efe youtubes btw

ok I found it. Just the US website is a shit show compared to the streamlined uk one. Reckon I'll get the wheel on there first and see how she sits.

hagon shock for EFE? Or some universal sort of unit? got a link please guy?

Thats why my carbs always wear protection.

Lol you guys and your open stacks... "But it sounds better! And those filters hold back 3 horsepower! Oh whoops what was that? a pebble? Oh well there's goes 5,000 dollars."...

I dont have metal cutting stuff. I'm just a simple parts replacer with some wrenches and a bench grinder. I'll get it taken care of though. And then it's on to the rear anyways. The bike shouldn't be driven with the chain thats on it. Why i decided to park the bike and start this now.

the washers to space the calipers inward need to be at least 2.25 mm thick or so. I got some from the local hardware store that are only 1.80 or so thickness. And the caliper metal still rubs the disk on the inside. Then I went and bought some calipers for to measure stuff. Measured from the mounting point to the INSIDE pad surface of the rotors shows a difference of about 2.25mm. Then again my bandit has 40,000 miles so the difference could be slightly greater. 2.5mm or more perhaps. So anyway now Ive been to every hardware store around and no one has the ones I need. They're all 2mm thick or less. And I dont want to double up and have a whole 3.6mm worth of threads that are not reached by the bolt. Or also move the calipers too far inward. So I now must turn to the internet for some ~ 2.25-2.5mm thick washers.

what about a shock from another bike? nothing?

So it's really not a reliable option on the street. But acceptable for an all out drag bike.

Anybody make efe jack up kit?

yea I was reading about titans and their 4th and 5th gear problems until the very last few models where they sort of ironed everything out... I'll just try and keep an eye peeled for another gt550 or 750 to pop up somewhere.

First thing you're gonna wanna do is replace the motor and carbs with bandit 1200 units. Then start with main jet around 145 or 150.

right. my bad. Yes if you are removing the airbox you will want the apropriate stage 3 (or stage 2 depending on which brand and what they call their open filter kit...). Between running the ramair with stacks setup or k&ns is little difference. You're still going to want to start with either a kit or if you're going from scratch route then yes what he said ^^^ you will indeed need bigger mains at the least.

I actually dont know. It's the way Ive had my bst38s from the get go. havent tried k&ns back to back on the same carbs yet. But I believe my 38s with bandit rubber stacks and ramair seems to respond better than I could ever get it to with stock b12 carbs with k&ns and dyno jet kit.