george 1100

Do you have a spacer plate under the block? As far as the studs go, you need to have at least 10mm of thread on the studs once everything is assembled including washers. A 10mm stud into an aluminium thread needs minimum 20mm embedment and a 10mm nut needs minimum 10mm of thread as a rule. I recently reassembled my motor and set the studs with Loctite at the exact height first then installed my spacer and base gasket with copper spray. You can measure the stud height by dummy assembling everything or by measuring you base gasket, cylinder spacer if you have one, cylinder, head gasket, head, washers and adding all that together. Use new washers and when you torque the head, put moly on the thread and on the underside of the nut. Torque to APE specs. Maybe the o-rings blew out due to excessive blow by? Just a thought, I'm not a turbo expert

No, head needs to come off

It looks like detonation

Exactly, motors are flogged also, may be modded, air-box gone, pipe change, even fuel has changed, some have lightened their bikes, combine with flogged carbs, it's no wonder so many people are having tuning issues.

Take a look at the amount of posts on here and all other oil cooled related platforms and every second post is CV carb related running issues. There's your answer

Just for the record,Busa mk1 rods are 119.5, 1127 and bandit rods are 117. Spacer required is 2.5mm

And the cases bored out also I recently built a 1277 only because I found a super cheap 83mm piston kit but if it wasn't for that I probably wouldn't have gone there as it ends up being quite expensive once the cost of the liners and the machining of the block and cases to fit the liners is taken into account

Tune it slightly fat, run a curved OEM cooler and head cooler and enjoy it. If it was knocking, you would've noticed. The sound is completely different to rattling flatslides. I had a cbr1000 with and open pipe and sometimes it would knock when I would labour the motor. Could hear it very clearly

How much comp are we talking and type of fuel?

Probably right! Any idea of cost?

Just for fun, here's a side by side comparison of the 5 speed and 6 speed through the gears. Not so relevant on a street bike but very beneficial on a track bike. Same tyre size and same top speed at 10,8000 in kmh. I can't get my head around mph . Can clearly see what the motor is doing through the gears

16:43 in mph and kph. The rpm's noted in the tachometer are the rpm drops per gear change. For example, redline in 1st, change to second, rpm drops to 8061, redline 2nd, change to 3rd, rpm drops to 8598 and so on

5000rpm?

Did you calculate that with a 1.56 primary?

This is a great tool https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

Should also mention that with the external oiling kit, somewhere in the take off, a jet like the one in the upper case needs to be introduced to limit the amount of oil being pumped up to the valve train which may lead to starving the crank of oil. I've never done it and not sure how people achieve that

The drag race motors more than likely are using big blocks which cut into the top end oiling gallery hence the external oil line is required to supply oil to the camshafts

Think of a single lane, 1, that splits into two lanes, 2 and 3. Lane 2, for example, gets blocked but up ahead there's another lane that connects lane 2 and 3 to keep the traffic flowing to lane 2 destination and lane 3 destination. It doesn't provide any 'extra' oiling. It's for show or insurance I guess

Yeah, very difficult to find under AUD$1500 these days. They're all hoarded

One of my previous standard track engines would have around 5 times as much as that after every 3 track days. Every oil change I'd get nervous but it kept going. I keep it as a spare now but haven't got around to stripping it down yet but if I had to guess, I'd say transmission followed by cams and rockers

When 2 are not enough

That is totally unnecessary. On some of the race bikes back in the day, they actually used the large main cooler to cool the head, then fitted a smaller cooler in place of the main one.

What's the story with these? They appeared on the second gen gsxr and bandits. Do they actually provide reinforcement or do they just hold the cam chain from dropping down during can removal/maintenance?

Very difficult to mount out front on these bikes. I guess you could try an rk type setup depending on what type of exhaust you have or you could double up but that may limit turning circle

I did point you to one that works and fits