george 1100

How is it possible to check timing on a bike using a strobe? Drill a hole in the timing cover and mount a timing wheel ? Possible I guess? Out of curiosity, are there any stand alone quick shifters for oilers? I have no issues with the oem ignition. I run +4 advance, stick coils and a second gen cdi in my slabby and she revs beautifully.

Hmm, I could tinker with that for days....

Good info Is there any way to check the true advance with this ignition because the pickup plate has slight tolerance and so does the rotor

Great info, good features , cheers. Seems like good value. I have a race loom that I made so I could easily adapt it

Can the switch be used and wired as a stand alone unit or does it need to be used with the ignition module?

Not sure how it could work on a slabby as the oem rear sets and lever have a very short shift rod

I had read a few stories years ago the it wasn't possible to use quickshifters on carbed engines because of severe popping or backfiring. Never looked back into it since, because I just took it for granted

On a drag bike I'd go for the push button but at the track I think it all get a bit confusing for me. I've heard a lot of good things about Ignitech but can't find a detailed write up, pic or an action vid

Has anyone successfully fitted and quickshifter to an oilcooled carbed motor. It's something I'm considering for my trackbike but can't find much info on the net apart from "Yeah, I fitted one and it works really good man" and " I made one for $5 from my sidestand switch" I'm talking proper reliable quickshifter with no glitches shifting at flat stick

switch from certain gs1000 ( sorry can't remember which one) bolts straight up, no mods. I connected to my digital clocks but you can just buy an led gear display indicator and wire it up. not difficult if you know how to wire shit up

Crank looks lightened too? Oversized valves? What cams?

Swing arm angle looks severe

What are you planning on revving it too?If you keep the redline at 10,500 rpm I don't see the need for yosh valve springs

yosh stage 3 in 10mm lift, from memory 252 duration @1mm yosh stage 2 in 9.5mm lift, form memory 248 duration @1mm I might be wrong but I think the stage 3 are discontinued but too big for street use anyway. I'm using st2 in my build with shimmed 750 springs. Certain aftermarket hd springs have way too much spring pressure for street or circuit use imo.

Ah, right, gotcha

On a side note, what's the reason for the Ape springs? High lift, increased rev limit?

Note, you will need to cut and fold down the front of the R1 brace and then weld and grind back the weld to look neat. Also make sure it's enough to the right to avoid the chain rubbing. I anodised mine also

Mine

Not with the current engine as it is basically standard, but will with the new engine. I've mounted the head cooler and working out the plumbing but not need to connect it yet. Running a standard slabby cooler atm

Today at the track with air temp at 25c mine never went over 100c. It sat around 97/98 during all sessions whilst receiving a severe flogging. Only once did it get up to 125 when they held us at the start for 5 mnutes. I have a Koso guage with sensor in the oil gallery bottom rhs

I've got stick coils on 3 of my bikes and no issues here. I used the gsxr1000 129700-4400 coils but there are many others that will work

I fitted a 1995 750w swingarm and 2012 1000 wheel to my slabbie. With the wheel centred, I had to machine the carrier to move chain closer to the wheel and used an offset sprocket to achieve correct chain alignment. Running a 520 chain out of choice but I reckon a 530 would've fit

You can have the best parts available but if you don't have it set it up and assembled correctly , it may disappoint or fail. Also the cost of porting, setting up the bigger valves, replacing guides and boring cylinders can get quite expensive. I rebuilt both my engines with 81mm pistons, bigger cams, 30/26 valves, guides, porting etc and I can tell you the costs can mount. Don't just slap everything together and hope for the best, everything needs to be measured, compression ie cc combustion chambers, measure piston domes, piston deck height, head gasket and base gasket thicknesses. Measure squish, very important to get it right. Unshroud the valves, don't go crazy. As far as porting goes and if you are a first timer, just blend, cleanup and port match. Don't cut the guides. Make sure your rockers aren't worn and depending on the cam, you may need them hardfaced. Check coil bind and valve to piston clearance. Get slotted cam sprockets and dial in your cams. Get a manual tensioner. Dummy assemble everything and measure. And if you do make decent power put some money aside for a clutch

Yes