george 1100

The curved stock cooler are good so no need to changed that imo. I squeezed a head cooler in behind the carbs and the OEM duct channels air to it

I'm not sure of the exact fuel tap you have there but I believe the vacuum operated Suzuki ones use the same principal. If the taps are repeatedly turned to prime and back, the inbuilt ramp that pushes the needle to allow fuel to flow, wears out. It's only soft cast alloy and it's actually difficult to even notice it's worn. Happened to me and I almost went insane before I figured it out. The correct way to turn the gsxr taps onto prime is to push and turn at the same time. This may apply to yours also Try turning it to prime then pushing it in to see if it flows

I fitted an Annitori to mine and it works perfect

Dirt has gotten in there and keep needle and seats open. A good rev and tap the carbs may help otherwise they will need cleaning and maybe also your tank

Sticky throttle, vacuum leak, lean pilot a good place to start

Yes, it looks like it would create problems rather than be of any benefit

Found this pic that shows the chamber around the plug dished down a fair way which can be achieved in the piston top also but I guess if it's present on both and the squish is tight, there may be some benefit. Anyone seen or tried this before?

Sorry, question was for BikeJake but sounds like you have some nice engines there

Also, when you say big bore, how big are we talking?

Dot head head has small combustion chambers which, depending on your piston kit, will give you too much of a compression ratio. Stick to the bandit head imo

Best bang for bucks imo are oversized valves with a ported head. Run the gsxr ecu with a 4 degree advancer Stepped headers if you can get them- 38-42-50-60.5mm then the can 40mm flatslides Yosh cams are expensive but you can always get your cams reground for half the money by a competent shop. I have a set of welded and reground cams in one of my bikes and they work very well

Bubble may not flow fuel from the bottom of the tank

Something like this. Cut 10mm strip all around and weld back together. If you cut more than 10/12mm, the OEM petcock handle will interfere with the underside of the top chassis rail. You can cut more than 10mm if you use a pingel Obviously, fuel capacity will be reduced

On both my 7/11 builds, I cut and shut 10mm off the bottom of the fuel tank sumps though I wouldn't have done that if I wasn't repainting

No info, just found it on my phone files

I'm almost certain it's clever wolf bodywork

Such an awesome bike. Seat, tank, fairing and paint scheme suit perfectly.

Yep, that's the way to go then you'll know 100%

In the first pic, there seems to be something stamped above the yoshimura logo. Should be either st1 or st2. Not sure what the x66 relates to. My st2 cams have s04 stamped below the logo. Best way is to measure them up. Put a vernier on them and that will give you a good idea. I'm guessing st1 because they're not drilled

Oops, just realised you were looking for spacers, not mounts.

Can run fine but I wouldn't risk in in a big dollar engine. Valve seats can fall out

They tend to crack between the spark plug and valve seat

After you dropped the needles maybe you should've brought your acc pump in earlier then maybe quarter turn increments of the pilot to see if that affect sub 4500rpm. Either or, or a combination of both

Don't forget the accelerator pump also. Start with the default setting and go from there