george 1100

Here's my diy porting

Measure your engine, it's not difficult and it's actually fun. Small variables can affect compression a lot at that level

Everyone is on to it now. Up until around two or three years ago you could still buy hard to find and trick bits cheap to reasonable prices

Spacer will lower comp and squish which will compound to lower hp.It's important to maintain squish even when lowering comp

I'll have a crack

Not a srad swinger but this wasn't too difficult, 95 750w. I think the srad one will be challenging

That's a big cam with big duration. You will likely encounter coil bind, valve to piston issues, valve retainer to valve guide clearance issues. Apart from dealing with those issues you will need hardweld rockers with extended pads, port work, bigger valves(big power here) and higher compression. In other words I'd be building the engine around that cam. On one hand if it's not installed correctly using the correct parts it's highly like it will self destruct and on the other hand if you don't build the engine using the appropriate parts to get the most out of that cam, it's likely you won't see a significant power increase. Lastly, that cam won't like traffic. Good cam, will make a lot of power

busa pistons won't give you high compression

Yes, might swap out the advancer as the first step then convert to 24v start and see how that goes. 24v mod certainly resolved the severe kickback and starting issues on my other beastie. Only difference between the two is that the latest build is only hard to start when hot where as the other was an issue whether hot or cold

Engine only has 70k;s on it since rebuild. To me it feels like a carb issue or a voltage drop issue but would be good to hear of similar experiences and opinions. Was thinking of removing the ignition advancer

Need some help here folks. Finally finished the build and fired it up. Cold start isn't great but I've got it down to having to twist the throttle 3 or 4 times(has flatslides), pull the choke and usually it will start after a couple of goes. Idle mixture is slightly on the rich side. Once it's warmed up. it's an absolute ball tearer, no flatspots and idles well. Problem is. once I shut it down. it's very difficult to restart. I've tried the idle mixture from slightly rich to lean which doesn't seem to help. I've tried starting with no throttle to slowly opening the throttle, pumping the throttle, slamming shut the throttle but nothing seems to work. I've checked the tank breather which is fine. Spark plugs look slightly rich but not enough to be an issue. Engine has a weaker than normal crank speed due to the high comp and kicks back a bit when it doesn't fire. Also has a 4 degree advancerMy other 7/11 had a very weak crank and would struggle to start but since converting to 24v start . it's been perfect since. Difference is, it wouldn't start cold or hot which leads me to believe it's a different issue with the new bikeAny ideas appreciated

It's been a while since I did this and I haven't worked on it since. In short and from memory, 95 750 swingarm, K8 1000 shock, gsx250 linkage which by the way is the same as a bandit and many other models, dog bones off a bike that I can't remember, also can't remember length. Battery box won't fit and will need a small lithium battery with the electricals mounted on a custom tray. Rear footrest brackets may not fit also

It's the right way as per your photo

Mine, ZX10 mated to GSXR1000

Got this tapered Akrapovic system off a B12 which I'll make fit

Here-

Cool, I put mine behind the carbs on my 7/11. Air is supplied to cooler directly from cowl ducts

Why do you want to put a head cooler? For function or for bling?

I agree.

In saying all of this, did you guys aligning your rear wheel to the front wheel first. I found that in order for the wheels to align the rear needs to move to the left about 8mm. The most the swingarm could move left was 4mm by backing off the axle adjusting nut. This makes chain alignment even worse

I'm using the 4150's, they're slightly shorter

or this

Can anyone tell me if this is correct?

I'll take some pics on the weekend I wonder if there is a carrier from another model that will fit but has a 5mm smaller offset.....