george 1100

I have a 1277. There's a big cost to consider because of the sleeves and boring the cases

I know of a guy that successfully ran 85mm pistons in a 1127 block with LA sleeves

That dent would need welding and then resurfacing....again

You would need to check valve to piston clearance also

Test the petcock

Sounds like a fuel issue

Haha, this is getting weird but I'll play along I don't know about other gaskets, I'm just talking about cometic multi layered steel (MLS) gaskets. Zoom in and you will see the rivets that hold the multi layers together

The 3 layers are held together with rivets. Seperate the layers, super clean them, use copper spray as per directions, re-rivet

I run 750 springs in one of my engines with oversized valves, oem retainers and 9.2mm lift intake cams

That's good to know, cheers. Out of curiosity, why did the rf's have a pump fitted?

He runs race fuel also which may affect how much capacity that's required. So would a 3-5 psi 30 gallon/hr pump together with a regulator that operates in the 1-2 psi range with a return line, do it?

Motor is apparently full house 1340 putting out 180hp+ I've been researching for him as curiosity got the better of me. Holley have some interesting products that are 2-4 psi and flow 30 gallons/hr . Have low pressure adjustable regulators also Yes Joseph, will need a return line

Yes I was thinking this but wouldn't a turbo bike require more psi as the bowls are pressurised. I'm no turbo expert by the way. Out of curiosity, what psi pump and reg are you using?

Has anyone ever done this? I'm asking on behalf of someone that's has a 1340 race car and the tank sits lower that the float bowls. They're currently running a vacuum activated pulse pump but it's not coping

Doesn't show tacho, neutral and oil pressure sensor

This is with no alternator. Can I ask, why the alternator for drag/sprint? Can just charge inbetween sessions

Nice bits

Sounds like your bolt is loose. I had a similar issue a while back. Probably wasn't torqued sufficiently or correctly or both

The MLS ones can be pulled apart by removing rivets, cleaned, light copper spray, rivet back together and off you go

Why don't you ditch it and run total loss. Saves 5kg also

I used blue. A dab of moly assembly lube on the thread and bottom of the nut. Makes a world of difference. Once torqued, go back the next day a retourque. This give the stud time to stretch. Use a couple of coats of copper spray on the base gasket as a safeguard

Regardless, you should check and make sure as per above post. At the end of the day, there is no benefit in the stud bottoming out, the most important thing is to have the correct thread embedment and enough thread for the nuts. When you look at the upper case, some threads start deeper than others

I'm running a 2.5mm spacer because of the busa rods but even without a spacer you should check that you don't sink the studs in too far. If they bottom out and you have minimum 10mm of thread for the nut, then you are good to go, if not wind them out and use thread locker. Do not torque the head with dry nuts, use moly.

I just made the same mistake by following the APE stud installing method which says the torque the studs into the block meaning they will bottom out which leads to not enough thread for nut to go on. Against my better judgement, I didn't run the washers and ended up with a blown head gasket. Don't go there