Captain Chaos

1100K has RWU forks so there are no knuckles to remove. As said, use a windy gun to unscrew the bottom bolt, then unscrew the top cap, and you can pull out the complete internals. Compress the spring somehow and unscrew the top cap from the damper, remove spring, and pump the damper a few times while holding it upside down, all the old oil will now come out. Then remove the dust cap and circlip holding the seal in place and with some firm pulls the stanchion + seal + bushes come out of the fork lower. Clean everything very well with some petrol and a brush before reassembling the forks. With some practice (I've done a few hundred forks by now) it takes me around 20 minutes from start to finish. Here is an exploded view of the forks.

And pics of course. Or it didn't happen.

that's what we also tried, stock GSX-R1100 engine with just 0,5 bar boost. After 5000km it melted a piston.

usually I adjust the valves first, then with the carbs off the bike I balance them visually, so that all the throttles are opened equally. Then 9 times out of 10 it's idling correctly and only needs adjusting a bit with the mixture screws. I don't use vacuum gauges. If it's still not running as it should, there's something wrong somewhere, like compression low on one (or more) cilinder(s) or the pilot circuit on (one of) the carbs not working properly.

the middle screw balances carb 2 and 3. For best results, adjust the valve clearances first.

the TLR feels like a TLS with cam timing out, f*cked head bearings and tyres low on pressure. Completely different bikes.

and farting

huh huh huh he said "tits"

You were lucky then. We ordered exactly the same, just for the levers. And the brake MC is typical Chinese crap, there was no way we could get it to work correctly so we installed an old R6 one I had lying about and now it's perfect. On an 1100 ED by the way. If you order another set it could be crap as well. Or maybe not.

got some Tokico 6-pots from a Kwak ZX9R (also 90mm bolt spacing) and they have different sized pistons, 4 larger and 2 smaller.

your post count is over 50.

Nope

weld some other bolts on the stuck ones, the heat will free them and then they can be loosened.

A mate in Holland had a JDM spec 750J, above 80 km/h (50 MPH) a red light "speed" came on. And it didn't go any faster than 180 km/h. The speed light is activated by a switch inside the speedo, easy to undo that one.

yep, 100% sure it's an EFE frame. Swingarm pivot area looks completely different on smaller square tube frames.

link http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/motorbikes_scooters.php

check out the online NGK catalogue and find out that JR9B is the correct plug for a slabby 1100

I also didn't know till Hussey posted a pic

yes, contrary to the round tube GSX's, the square tube 750 is much smaller than the square tube 1100 (EFE). An aircooled 1100 engine does not fit into a square tube 750 frame.

ahhh.... GSX750. In that case there will be no choice of engine placement (bit more forward or not) in the frame, oilcooled engine is a nice and tight fit. All the drawings of engine brackets on this site are for 1100 frames and will be of no use to you. I think @Del has done the swap, you can ask him.

connect them to the plenum/pitot tube. The float bowls need boost pressure.

wrong thread? I think you meant to post here

What is the setup you are using? @Scara had the great idea of making some database of members' EFI configurations. Specifically as follows: Engine Management System - type Ignition system: Type Throttle bodies: - Which model and mods performed. Injector sizes: Primary and Secondary if applicable. Std Coils or Pencil stick coils (type / part number / model) - etc Fuel pressure at pump: What type of pump being used (factory OEM Suzuki pump tank mounted as an example) You get the idea, perhaps if its good enough, we can make it a sticky somewhere on the forum.

That's not WP-WN, it's WR-WS (extra mounting points on the cil. head). Basically same engine though. And it means an 1100W engine would also fit.

I always put original Suzuki grips on my bikes. Gives a nice "factory" look without any ugly spaces on the throttle grip.