bluedog59

Ok. I'd go for a full system, airbox mod/jetting, "wheelie wire" if you've got one and suspension. Maybe do some head work if you're having the engine apart anyway. This should give you a bike that does everything reasonably well, enough poke that you can have fun and just about enough chassis to keep you out the bushes*. * But not guaranteed.

I must admit I was assuming that they still had the "wheelie wire on the K series. You're right about gutting a standard end can but just to clarify, I was referring to the 4/1 collector on the stock downpipes. There is a lot of baffling in there that can be removed with a simple cut and reweld. This, with a new link pipe and aftermarket can, can be a good halfway house without the expense of a full system. Then again, if you're pockets aren't deep enough to buy a full system that you will need at some point then I'd quit now before you fall into the bottomless money pit of chasing bhp.

Ignition retard wire.

From what you've said I would go for, New pipe, full system or a new can and link pipe with a gutted stock collector as a cheaper 2nd option. Disconnect the ignition regard wire. Mod the airbox and re-jet with a better filter. This will just give you more everywhere and keep the midrange. After that you may want to think about upgrading the suspension while you decide what to do next engine wise.

I've never heard of Suzuki doing a reed valve model but I have seen a few conversions when I raced against the Dutch in their 50cc championship a few years ago. The quality of some of them looked "Factory".

Tis the eternal way of the world.

Sell in haste and repent at your leisure.

That is very nice.

The B12 goes even better if you cut the collector box open and pull all the baffle crap out.

Lucky Strike Schwantz ?

We all know a "go faster" sticker is worth another 10bhp. They look like a pair of tarted up Nissin calipers to me. What's more, they've made them worse by machining off the strengthening ribs. Doh !!

Have you checked/set the airscrews ?

Before we start looking for big problems, have you checked for a consistent fuel flow and the tank breather is clear ? If it fires up and runs for a short distance before the problem shows up then I'd route all the carb drains into a can, crack the drain screws open and check fuel flows and keeps flowing. Just a thought.

I would have thought a bit of heat on the post may help. Not a flame but maybe boiling water.

Nowt wrong with being a little on the larger side. It's not weight, it's a highly sophisticated mass transfer and traction control system.

I prefer the MK1 ( but I may be a little biased ). Strong motor that's easy to get more power out of, reasonable handling, good brakes, best looking. A good all round bike that you can hussle along quite quick or load up with luggage and tour Europe on in relative comfort. Fit a decent full system or an end can and gut the 4/1 collector, disconnect the "wheelie wire", upgrade the rear shock, bit of tweaking on the forks and you're pretty much good to go.

Or just leave it in one piece and have a better bike.

It may be, 4 carbs = 4 holes.

Dezza appears to have got a handle on dealing with rusty tanks, did a couple for me and they came up a treat. Could be worth dropping him a message.

Light wheels are always good.

I think that if a light is there, it has to work. I'd tape it over or remove the bulb holder from the headlight.

Not a technically hard job, it just depends what kit you have access to. A hacksaw, drill and files could get 90% of it done nicely with a bit of care but you'd need a lathe for any spacers. Putting it "underslung" would just need a new torque arm mount fitting.

Your boss is an arse. Sells you a pup knowing you'll struggle to find pads then stitches you up on a set. I'd tell him to stuff his calipers the same place as his job.

I wasn't questioning your method, just commenting regarding somebody's concerns about an ultrasonic tank damaging parts.

Just using a generic carb cleaner for ultrasonic off Fleabay.