bluedog59

The tappets are fine, compression is good and it performs fine. You can hear it is not running smooth at low revs so balance the carbs, check the cam chain tensioner is working properly and you have no exhaust leaks. With the carbs out of balance the load will cycle as it runs through the firing order and everything will "chatter". Even if it doesn't stop all the noise, at least you will be left with what is causing it and got rid of the background noise. Do the basics first before you go looking for doom and gloom ( I think we've all heard the one about the full engine rebuild when it was the keys rattling on the top yoke all the time ).

"Static sag" is the amount the suspension compresses under the weight of the motorcycle itself. "Dynamic/Rider sag is the amount the suspension compresses with the rider seated in the normal position. I'll let others with similar "Katanas" give you figures based on experience rather than theory because real life conditions have an influence. The key point is that you are looking for the suspension to be working in the mid area of its stroke in normal conditions, not starting at one extreme and moving towards the other. Swingarm angle is normally between 5-10 degrees unladen and just below horizontal with the rider aboard. Do not set your sag with the bike on a paddock stand ! It will affect your figures. Looking at your picture I would check your preload and shock length because the "ride height" look very high.

Is that swingarm longer than standard and do you have any "static sag" ?

I'd give the cam chain tensioner a service including a new spring, check for any exhaust leaks at the head and balance the carbs. Slide carbs also tend to "chatter" a bit at low revs.

Old age and cunning can often be a good match against youth and bravery.

That would do the job I think. Thank you very much. The next question is.... has anybody got one spare ? "Wanted ad" coming up.

I'm in need of a 17mm front spindle with larger diameter on one end and at least 210mm long. From looking at pictures, a 600 Bandit looks close enough. Does anybody have one ( or anything else suitable ) they could measure up please ? Ta muchly.

Just my CDO* poking through. *Very like OCD but in the correct order.

L/H thread ?

From what I understand, the serpent design had some worthwhile benefits but the R+D and manufacturing costs proved to be another nail in Micron's coffin.

Thanks. Getting the hang of using mine.

They're a lovely tool to have, well worth getting. Do you know the time and temperature they were in for ?

That's how I did it on my B12. Remember to put the holes in so you can access the suspension bolts and, if you're not going to fit a hugger, drill out the rivnuts and weld up the holes. Flat them back and they were never there.

Was it a regular bike shop that you spoke to or a suspension specialist ? If it was a specialist, I think you have your answer.

Heat the alloy bottom to break the threadlock. Unscrew the small grub screw then unscrew the stanchion from the fork bottom. Easier said than done but that is how you do it.

Can you not get them re-chromed somewhere locally ?

Check it's not in gear. We've all done daft things.

Two points. Are we talking 33mm CV carbs or 33mm slide carbs ( possibly VM29ss bored to 33mm) ? Would it be possible you could make some aluminium spacer plates to go between the head and rubbers to move the carbs back ?

My Q plate has 4 working indicators, Left arm/leg, Right arm/leg.

Add me to the "been there, done that" list. Take it apart, clean it thoroughly, have a coffee then clean it again. Mine was fine afterwards.

That's if you need indicators. What year is the reg ? If it's a Q plate, I think MOT regs from something like 1971 apply.

Maybe also check your "float" has not become a "sunk".

Sitting on the side stand, number 1 cylinder floods.

Very true but what I'm trying to establish is, are we actually getting any fuel in there to ignite ? Even with a blocked pilot circuit you would normally get something out of #1 as the other 3 cylinders drag the revs up.

Given that you've checked that you're getting a spark, the valves are adjusted correctly and you have compression, I would suggest that you are not getting fuel into the cylinder to ignite. Is the plug wet when you take it out ? Are you actually getting any fuel into #1 float bowl ?