bluedog59

Sorry to put a spanner in the works guys but, GSXR1100wp. Big end journal 41mm. Crank pin 39.9mm. GSXR750wr. Big end journal 37mm. Crank pin 33.9mm. Figures from Factory manual.

Ignore them all Cooky, they're only hoping you'll break it so they can swoop for bits to improve their bikes.

If you want speed A to B. I. Suspension. 2. End can. 3. Downpipes/collector. 4. Jetting with filters/modded airbox. 5. Head work/cams or DOT head and cams. If you want straight line speed ignore number 1.

I know the type you mean, using a clutch slave of a car type of thing. I'm looking for a bit neater.

That would be handy thank you. It's in a none standard frame and I'd rather not have a cable hanging out in the breeze. Could pull the rm from the other side but hydraulic would be neater.

Does anybody know if you can do the swap the other way round, convert a 750 from cable to hydraulic ?

The spacers need to be of the "ring" type and the middle of the disc still needs to locate on the centre spigot on the wheel. You don't actually need to make them super accurate, by hand with a saw,file and drill will do. A piece of sheet steel the right thickness is fine for making them out of.

According to all the builders reports in magazine articles, they all handle brilliantly no matter what fork/swingarm/engine combo they have. Make of that what you will.

I think if you really delve into regs, modification of suspension mounting points away from standard ( twin shock to mono ) technically requires inspection more than an MOT. I've never heard of anybody being busted for it but it pays to be aware.

Well done kid.

The s/arm pivot may be adequate but, as I said, it looks weedy. Nothing a little simple remedial work couldn't sort in both areas. The basic frames that HUC produce are ok, it's just the quality is a little hit and miss and their main selling point is price.

They do look a little weedy around the s/arm pivot but nothing that couldn't be fixed. Is it just a frame ? I had a problem on a mate's chop frame, headstock bearing housing bored too small, Butler's solution ? Dremmel it out ! Needless to say I made a sleeve and used a smaller bearing. On the other hand, I see ones that went together fine. Give it a good look over but ( just about ) everything is fixable.

I suggested the Threebond as I assumed you were talking about crankcase halves. I wouldn't use sealant on a normal gasket, I just use a thin smear of grease as I think helps the gasket seal and gives you more chance of it being good to reuse if you have to do a Sunday strip down. A thing to remember with sealant is, If you can see it squelching out the joint, you can bet the same amount will have gone inwards into the engine.

Threebond 1104 is good stuff. Eblag 151612955958

That's rather nice.

The way it's looking, he should be able to do the whole conversion for less than £100 and, given the lack of budget, I think he'll be doing it as the only way for the frame to live again. Unless somebody can donate a decent subframe and shocks for less. Now that's a challenge.

We just split a GS motor without removing the barrels (seized). We did remove the head and cams but I don't think you have a problem leaving them untouched.

I think he'd have liked to keep it twin shock but the whole mount area is so rotten that we could just crush the tubing with our fingers. It would take a hell of a lot more work to keep this frame twin shock and the budget is not big.

I've got a 32 mm. I'll put it and the big breaker bar in the car so text me during the day to remind me to drop it round. PS, Remember to post pictures, we like pictures on here.

+1 on both of the above. Certain size tyres go with certain size rims for a reason......... and it's the only thing between your arse and the road.

Have you checked the float heights and air screw settings ?

Build a "sleeper".

You say that the Ikon shocks cured a ground clearance issue, are they slightly longer or at least stiffer thus raising the rear and steepening the head angle making it a bit more sensitive ? Beware of over tightening the head bearings as this can lead to rider input causing a weave as you ( subconsciously ) try to correct it.

Any news/progress ?

A very neat solution Sir.