Dezza

Buy a Ledar induction kit from Grumpys. Sorted

OK, I will measure the threads if I use a stock mc for anything

Maybe check with a thread guage as all the Jap banjo threads I have encountered on master cylinders have been 10 x 1.25. 10 x 1 is for European bikes, esepcially those using Brembo brake components. Hold up an M6 fastener to see if the thread pitches are the same. If so, it's a 1mm pitch as 99.99% of 6mm screws and bolts are 1mm pitch.

Remove the rust by using an oxalic acid (available on ebays) solution and a load of nuts and bolts (non-stainless) and a bit of steel chain. Even if you get it brazed it will pay to also line it with POR15, especially if you want a nice paint job. A leak after painting will cause much grief.

Kojaks charge just under 20 quid all in for the stick coil connectors. Obviously, they add in vat and postage on top of their advertised price right at the end of the ordering procedure rather than being up front about it Coils plus new connectors is still a lot cheaper than a set of Dyna coils and leads though, and gives equal pub bragging rights

Just think of a reasonable price, then quadruple it. You won't be far out for new parts prices

They would if the spacings were correct for an aircooled/oilcooled engine. Problem is they are different I have a set of wc carbs from a wc 750 and they are about as much use as a chocolate teapot for non-wc OSS bikes. If you have accidentally become lumbered with a set then I think they are often used as an upgrade for certain car engines (allegedly) so advertise accordingly. That's what I intend on doing with mine when I can be arsed to get the bloody things to stop leaking. Racer X is right: the oilcooled 750 38mm carbs have drain bowl plugs that look similar to those on RS carbs and the like. The wc 38s don't.

That's cheap! An aircooled 1100 project bike for only £650, especially as it's a runner What's the plan after the initial clean -up?

Isn't the little brass pipe for the cold start circuit?

I recently put a 6 inch back wheel in a bike, which had a similar design sprocket carrier as a Dymag wheel. The offset needed reducing but the design of the carrier meant that the face could not be reduced much at all so in the end I ended up having a new carrier of a different design made. The problem is that a Dymag wheel (newer design) and many other race wheels have six M10 allen bolts scewed into the hub and the sprocket carrier cush drives sit on the heads of these bolts. The amount the bolts protrude from the hub plus a few mill then sets the inner limit for the chain run unless there is enough metal on the wheel hub itself to enable enough of a reduction.

These are the same connectors as supplied by Kojaks for about £13 quid for four, although I don't yet know how much they charge for post. https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/RFW-2WFBx4 I was aiming to modify the stock rubber seals to fit around the coil to stop the things vibrating loose and the plug wells filling up with shite. Obviously these are needed whatever caps/coils are used so it's not any extra cost of doing a stick coil conversion.

Link doesn't work. The only similar ones I can find are in the US or Australia.

Did you find where you got the connectors? I see that Kojak's or whatever they're called stock some but the bloke who runs the place doesn't know what fits what. My guess is all the Denso 129700 coils take the same plug though. I have some now from a 750 Y/K1

I use the old fashioned ones as used on about 99 different Yamaha models from the 1960s to the 1990s, the ones with a metal inner sleeve. You can get replicas in bulk on ebays, which is nice, as I always thought Yamaha did a smashing grommet

Are you going to complain to HEL? New calipers aren't exactly cheap and you shouldn't have to space the discs out if they have their sums wrong.

I have some he did for me a while back I ended up not using so will take some pics if I remember to take my camera to the garage. Why not message him on here? Had a few minutes before tea time so here you are.

Got a 40 quid 19 row job coming soon and a new 10 row 115mm Mocal for 36 quid (head cooler going in seat unit) but that will need a couple of -8 adaptors. What's sphock? Something from Star Trek?

GSXR Sam on this site makes a nice rearset, very similar to the ones in the pic He could have made you a set 4 years ago, thus predating the problem which would then never have existed in the first place

Yep, I was wondering that too. The ultimate OSS mystery of mysteries: where are Steve Burns's bikes?

It's a nice framed bike but still only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Whoever was trying to flog Hag Hughes's old FZR1000 Harribox a few years back was struggling to get 10k for it as it was on ebays for ages

Just goes onto ebays and type in Harris in cars and vehicles catergory and go to motorbikes and scooters.

Weird: the ZZR engine is the same size in most places as a GPZ900R (I have owned both), unless the stock head, carbs, and airbox are retained. Changing to a GPZ1100 wc or a ZRX11 head enables the use of non-downdraft carbs and mucho space reduction, and the wilder ZZR cams go striaght in. Just a thought for building a v-powerful but cheap special as wc Kwaks are cheap. The Ian KIng Harris GSXR looked to me like a cradle frame, an alloy version of the the F1 even though it was referred to as a Harribox, which looks completely different (ex-endurance version on Eblag at the moment for much quids).

When the bike is warm does it run OK? If so, I had the same on my efe engined bike. It's the very fine drillings for the cold-start circuit that get blocked with varnish. These are in the float bowls and in the main carb bodies. It is fairly striaghtforward to clear the float bowl holes as you can see if they are blocked or not by squirting carb cleaner. For this I used wonder wheels wheel cleaner applied with a syringe (it's fairly acidic). For the main bodies, it took several attempts using various methods to get it all cleaned out. First, I soaked the carb bodies overnight in a mixture of acetone and cellulose thinners (it's probably not a good idea to smoke when mixing this solution......). Make sure all rubber and plastic parts are removed as the solution will destroy them, and if the carb bodies are painted, they won't be afterwards. Then it took three attempts with ultrasonic cleaners, first with a mild citric acid solution, then the usual carb cleaning solution. Take care if using acid as if you leave it too long it will remove your zinc plating from the steel parts. Eventually, this worked after I also realised I had a weak spark due to a faulty CDI unit (thanks to Sheep on this site for selling me his spare to get me out of a hole).

Doesn't the 1157 ECU/CDI require a resistor in the ignition circuit or a Blandit 12 ignition switch to work?

Looks like I'll go with a 40 quid job. The last oil cooler I bought was about 30 years back and it's still going strong. I suspect that taking care to mount the things correctly and to route the pipes well have more of an effect on the likelihood of failure than the brand of cooler.