wraith

Yes, as the air forks where crap anyway

Cannot help with the sizes (as the one on my bike have been cut off) but I know the shaft and chain drive seats are not the same and the gs850 tank and side panels are not the same as the gs1000g but the 850 tank will go on the 1000 frame. Best ring to do is have a look on fleebay for a seat and ask what the spacing is if no help on here, sometimes the best part of the bay now a days lol

Well found out why the cover won't fit the gs1000 motor, a gs750 cover got mix up with the gs1000 bits

Always used OEM ones

Only have one cover, the spare bottom end seems to have a much rounded clutch cover.

Was looking at the spare bottom end I have in the shed (gs1000 year unknown) and the clutch covers off both my other gs1000 motors do not fit it. All are chain drive and all have gs1000- etc stamped on the start of the numbers. So which year/model of gs1000 have different clutch covers?

Got the stainless one on my gs1000 (pics on here somewhere) good zorst for the price, I just got down pipes and link pipe then put a end can I wanted on.

Welcome to OSS, we are all one offs here

I have put a b6 completed front and rear ends in a gs550 before, had the stem on the b6 yokes machined to mach the GS ones and made new steering locks The rear end want state in you have to make shock mounts ever on the frame for mono shock or on the swing arm for twin shocks. Not a hard jod, and you can put a RF600 front wheel in the b6 forks as it gos strate in and you then get a 3.5" rim, or the 750f should be pretty much the same but cheaper parts.

So it got a run out again yesterday, though sadly mostly at very bottom end (blinking traffic!) It's now on 155 mains (Dyna size) and pilots at 2 1/2 out. Balanced the carbs again after re-setting, though they weren't out by much, surprisingly. Though it still feels maybe a tad not 'free' yet, it's accellerating very well (when I got the chance!) and running very smooth all the way through as soon as the throttle's more than a few degrees/mm open (I guess from previous marking/testing and feel, that's as soon as the needle starts to lift at all - running a very QA throttle and no rev counter so hard to say more than that). No flat spots or other problems, and have lost the 'bogging' at bottom end which I had with the 144s and pilots at 3 turns out (which seemed to be a pilot mixture issue). Still popping & gurgling at bottom end, sometimes not much and sometimes quite a lot (can't work out when/why), much worse when coming downhill (which with hindsight I realise has always been the case) especially on tickover or very low revs. Idle/tickover screw adjustment definitley has an effect on the popping. Some still on over run but not as bad. Some tinkering with idle screw (throttle stop screw) still required and will continue to play with pilot screw/mixture to get the best we can at very bottom end. I am wondering if a 160 main jet would be worth a go again, and ideally testing different needle positons would be good, but maybe it'll have to do for now; more riding, less faffing! It's running, seemingly well enough for the roads around here. Not enough dry, never mind sunny days (with unbusy roads) to ride the thing as it is!

Surprises me too, but since one lot who said this were V&M Racing and it's also been said several times by Dyna UK, I tend to bow to thier superior knowledge. I think they mean a 4: 1 race-type exhaust (as opposed to standard OEMs perhaps?) - especially for lower down road use perfomance.

Yes: but problem isn't at full throttle but mid to low down... Frankly, given the (rural) roads and traffic around here, never mind speed limits (!) it's never going to get anywhere near fully open throttle - but it does do a lot of quick on and off work in mid range or ave to bumble along at low speeds. Also, it is already running dyna B12 kit needles. Might finesse the needle position at some point, but really it seems OK as it is and I'm not keen on playing on and off with the carbs any more than I already am! Access to a dyno would be really helpful; trouble is, there isn't one around here as far as I know, and certainly not one where I'd trust the operator to know what they're really doing as regards interpreting mixtures thrughout the range and giving apropriate advice (sorry, but experience shows that to be true ata lot of places). I had planned to take it and several other of my bikes to a dyno which had opened up pretty locally by someone who works for race teams, but I can't get hold of him any more by phone so don't know if he's gone out of business or not - a trip down that way at some point will be in order. In the past I have had the bike set up by a reputable dyna place (now no longer), though on GSXR bst36 carbs, and that's where I got the current set up from. They also said that with a 4:1 exhaust on, I was never going to get it spot on throughout the range for road use.

OK, update after some more test riding and a few chats with a very helpful guy at Dyna UK (thanks, Richard). Apparently stage 3 Dyna kits for GSXR K (BST36SS) include 136, 140 and 144 main jets. Standard stage 3 kits for Bandit 12 same carbs, but some different internals, include 150 and 155 jets. For a 30cc bigger bore, it's likely that the main difference here is to do with carb design - so around 155 is what's been recommended to me (DJ jet size). Rode it last night on 144 mains and with the pilots out to 3 turns. Originally tried them at under 2 and was not at all keen to rev through smoothly; at 2 1/3rd didn't seem too bad though 'gritty' feel on opening it up (from bottom to near top) though is pulling well and no flat spots; at 3 turns out is a bit more gritty though still accelerating well, but is a noticeable small flat spot at very bottom end. On all pilot settings it was still popping quite loudly at low end whether running at slow speed (20-35mph) or decelerating from higher speeds - maybe a bit less on 3 turns out but not cured by any means. Then experimented with turning idle screw in and out whilst riding and found that I could just about stop the popping if I ran the idle screw all the way out (i.e. butterfly near closed). If I turned it in the poppping and banging got considerably worse - but the overall gritty engine feel got a bit better. As I understand it, turing the idle all the way out makes the bottom end (and maybe all the way through?) a bit richer, but then again so does pulling out the pilot screws... Don't quite unerstand what's going on here, but it definitely does something! So that's some kind of progress, I guess - and we're in the ball park and it's rideable under various combinations. I'm told that the popping isn't going to cause damage, just annoy the neighbours et al somewhat! I'm now going to try the 155 jets as it seems that I'm going to be better going for a B12 Dyna set up jetting, as above. Also, when I tried it on 1602 and 150s it did seem to have a crisper, less 'gritty' feel to overall aceleration. Bit more messing with pilots and also now it seems trying combinations of pilot adn idle settings, and we'll see how it goes. Oh, and the main advice was don't run a 4:1 exhaust and you'll never get it set up rigt and running really nice (for the road) with one on!!!

Are those Mikuni or DJ main sizes, then? Those long screws look rather useful! Do they still work with DJ components (emulsion tubes & jets etc?).

Good point. Forgotten that. So it makes the comparison with the manual's standard specs a little more 'sensible'. However, the 144 and also 150 and 160 jets which I've used are all Dynajet kit ones (= 135, 140 and 150 Mikuni equivalent per your table). I bought the 150s recently as part of a dynajet kit for another 1127 motor (F on 750 38mm carbs) that I have, also on filters and reasonably unrestricted zorst, but actually ended running that currently on 155 main jets and it's running and acelerating very nicely (though maybe it's running a tad rich?) and not having anywhere near as much popping or similar issues (well, the odd flame...... ;-) ). Equating 144 Dynajet to 135 Mikuni is in line with your original suggestion and is what the bike was set up with several years ago, but on standard GSXR K carbs; I just wonder what difference the Bandit 12 carb internals might make.

That's the main jet setting for the bst36ss carbs on a GSXR1100K - these are bst36ss from a Bandit 1200 (I've stripped and checked part numbers just to be sure!), which have some internal differences and run as standard (on the slightly bigger but differently tuned B12 bore) 102.5... I had the bike Dyno'd and set up by a reputable tuner a few years back and they put the 144s in, but that was on standard GSXR k carbs. They did tell me that a 4:1 exhaust (which I forget to say) is always going to be hard if not impossible to set up. Logic says that I should go down main jet sizes on the B12 carbs as opposed to the GSXR ones, but I've also heard of people recommending 150-160 main jets on this set up, so I'm well confused now! Also, it was running very nice on 160 and 150 mains, perhps slightly better tan on 144s, so I'm already worried that 144s could be too lean. Some say that the back popping is a sign of it running lean, and turning out the pilot screw makes it richer at bottom end and I'm often told that contrary to theory the main jet does have some impact on 0-1/4+ throttle, not just pilot screw/jet settings (and vice versa at higher throttle), so maybe I actually ned to run bigger jets again along with richer bottom throttle (pilot)??? If only it was a damn sight easier to get carbs on and off and even just to adjust the fiddly pilot screw (especially when engine's warm). Aaaaagh.......

I know this would have been asked before, but I can't find anything. So got a gsxr1100k (1127cc) with b12 bst 36 carbs on it with k&n filters and a Cobra zorst and qa throttle. I am currently running 144 main jets, needles set as standard and the pilot screws set at 2 1/3. Seems to start and run well, but a bit gritty on acceleration and back pops a lot on shut off even at low speeds, as soon as gets warm (5 mins to 15, depending). Tried 160 jets and also 150s, both with pilot screws at 2 turns out. Maybe smoother and crisper throttle response throughout the range but still lots of popping and popping was a lot worse on the 150s - but then got better again once dropped to 144s but with screws bit further out. On 144s at 2 turns out it flamed and popped a lot and was quite rough when revving through. Got better when turned pilot screws a bit further out. It's really hard to get the same test ride conditions given weather/temp and road/traffic conditions, and don't have a local dyno. Plug chop also difficult to do around home or by roadside (tank & fuel lines off). So, any ideas on a better setup? Anyone else running similar set up? Particularly want to minimise the back pop - bike's always bumbled & grumbled (nicely) on shut off once warm, but seems worse this year somehow. Cheers

Look like gs to me

Cheers

Both 36mm but the standard are round slide I think and are heavier. Some say flat slide are better, but if you can keep the standard ones and do a Dyna run then get some gsxr carbs and do the same and you can then tell us all which is the best for shore

And I still have the bike, but I have put the standard bodywork back on.

Should be cool, the rear wheel gos strate on the GS hub, had one on my shafty about 15 years ago

Yes clutch is different to the chain drive, the crank is also different. The gs1000 chain drive top end (complete) will fit straight on the 1000g bottom end, the gs750/850/1000 cams all interchange, you can used ever the GS CV head or slide carb head. The geny cover on the g is different to the chain I think but you can used the gs1000g or chain drive geny and starter clutch or the gs850 one.

Cheers

There was a gs1000g bottom end on flybay and put a 1000 top end on it.