wraith

Hi all, Does anybody know if the can chains are the same or different in the gsx1100f ( 1127 power screen ) to the gsxr 1100 (1127) ? I have heard they are different in the b12. Cheers in advance.

That was cheep, was it a USA one? As they are smaller and don't bring as much. I sold a very scruffy one last year, and the bidding went mad. It sold for over £100. but played for some nice bits for one of the projects.

Also cost a lot more than a GS tank if you can find one.

Just to let you all know the #1 selector forks are now NOT available but you can still get them from the USA as new/old stock. Just got 2 off for £80 + p&p as they will come in use one day

Cheers all, Treephoenix thanks I have a set in the shed, but if it's them that's fu*k I mite look at new ones cheers

Looks like I need to get to the dog bones or Slater forks depends on you what you call them The Q is can you get to the gear box /split the the engine crank cases without stripping the topend/total motor? I have heard you can remove the cams,front camchain blade then split the crank cases without the need to remove the head and barrels etc?

Just a bit of work to do then chop out the rot weld new in and away you. Have fun

I found in the past that after market seats never fit as good as the OEM seats, there always seems to be a gap and/or a tite spot somewhere.

Just been into the garage, and split and had a look at the bottom end which is on the bench. Gears move free, cogs etc look OK, dog bone/selector forks don't look badly scored (4.75 to 4.77mm where they slot into the gears), pins seem OK - though will check all to manual's tolerances in due course - if I can find them... BUT- the selector/ shift drum will only go round to 1st, neutral and 2nd (very occasionally & with force 3rd) then jams. Will move with change shift rod ( moles on shaft not splines ) or moving drum with fingers or screwdriver, all real easy for 1 & 2, then locked solid. ??? Going to strip that out and have a look.

Cheers will have a look

What chain? Engine just put in frame other bottom half on work bench.

Any ideas, The gear box in my gs1000 (chain drive) is playing silly buggers. Some times it will go in gear and all the way through to top, other times it will jam in top or a false neutral between 4 and 5. 1st and 2nd are gritty as well (all with eng not running). Had the clutch cover and clutch out: still the same. Will come out of gear/ down the box if I take off the foot gear bit and put mole grips on the shaft, but this does not work all the time and you need to f**k about. So any ideas of why??? Also had a look at a set of spare crank cases and box that's in them (no clutch in it) - and the gears, using mole grips on the shaft, won't go above 2nd even when rotating gearbox by clutch shaft. Does seem easier into and between 1st and 2nd though. Is that buggered too, or... ? Neither box or cases ever come off an engine run by me, so don' t know what the score is.

I was on the understanding they where all 1157cc ?

I used Simoniz gloss black engine paint, decreased engine rubed it down and then sprayed it last year, gone all year summer and winter and still looks as good as it did when I sprayed it. I would highly recamend it. They do it in gloss black, satin,mat or silver.

I'm using a DID 520 x ring chain on my gsxr motor Kat for the same reason as you, and from the chain just caching tyre and frame by about 1/2 mm it now runs clear and seem to be getting good were out of if.

If it does not hit the frame and the thread comes through the but not a prod, done this on a old bike I had ran it for 3 years with on problems.

Cheers all, just one them things you think of at about paint 3 when telling your mates sad a.

I have had a b6 swing arm rear etc in a gs550 with no problems

Hi and welcome to OSS, make shore you put a project build up when you get started As to your tank problem, you can post in the wanted bit and best keep a eye on the bay they do come up quite a lot.

Hi all putting a DOT head on my 1100 what plugs should I use? The standard 750 dot head plugs or the standard 1100 plugs? Thanks in advance

Nice work, don't know about the 750es motor but I did see someone putting a gsxr750 motor in the 550.

Got a starter clutch and geny in the shed and my tag has came off it (bugger) there is a number on the geny 037000 1390 and the out side diameter on the rotor (magnetic bit) is 130mm. I think it's off a gsx750et but it may be gs1000? Any help thanks

You need the carb rubbers for the 38mm carbs as the ones off the 34 or 36mm will be to small. The 38mm carbs will give it more hp

Lot of bike for the cash

I would not put more oil in the forks. Look at the size of the standard fork cap (air type) then look at the size of the new cap you're going to use and make a spacer up for the different size. You can use a peace of blue plastic pipe (main water type of the right size) that's the oldskool way and what Progressive spring recommended. Also old 2p coin's worked well