Joseph

Exhaust connected to tank for 10 minutes trick is how they did it on the old school Paris Dakar for years apparenlty

I'll get the link for you

I am in France, just checked on my usual classifieds website and one of the good bike breaker professionals i use has a complete loom for 50€ If you can't find a matching one your side that could probably be the easiest way to fix your bike situation

Yep, thats the best plan. Unwrap it to locate iffy soldered add ons and other butchered wires. Buy a bandit loom, and unwrap that. It will provide you with all the correct colour-coded wire to take from it and replace whats messed up on yours. Ideal move is to replace the whole section of a wire thats messed, rather than cut and crimp or solder a section in Replace the spades on the new wires you fit on and you should be good to go. I'm guessing it's the lights/ingnition switch areas that have been messed around the most ? The rest of it shouldn't be too molested ?

Could spring up different part numbers solely based on the paint used to paint them, despite being the same physical shapes

Does anyone have vector files of the ET tank decal patterns ?

S2711L (or R) is the ref type you're looking for. Google whatever you find and you should be able to find out. That example i gave fits 750 90-93 i think ?

Inside as in facing the brake discs surface, yep

Fork ID number is cast inside the feet of the legs

Only bearings i found with 20 ID are slightly slimmer and non sealed. Sprocket side is not really a problem, since it is shielded by the sprocket carrier. Disc side you just need to use an appropriate sized seal. Done this on two bikes, i found that the bearings don't last as long but it's hardly an expense and if no sealed options are available it's the best that can be done

And forgot another crucial point : disc spacing width and rim hub width needs to be assessed, and also fork tube spacing. Much easier to fit the whole front end i think

Changing bearings is probably an option however you will lose the speedo cable drive. That will be something to take into consideration unless you already have an electronic dashboard. 600 SRAD had 320mm discs for some reason but the USD 750 had 310 so you're good there

Really not sure about any of this (especially EFI ), you have more experience with these lumps than me. However this is the ignition signal setup on a 1400 : Looks familiar enough

Ah yes indeed the cam sensor too. Fuel pump would be easy enough. But anyways, initial theory was about carbing a 1400 and that would be a cool gig

Nope. It's your bitchbag attitude that got you the type of reactions you got. But i'll answer your question again : if you have a leak at the headgasket area, it's probably mainly because the headgasket has failed. Surely you're able to realise, that even IF the O rings have failed, it cannot realistically result in the headgasket leaking, IF said headgasket is in solid condition. Eitherway, you still need to fix all the top end. But@no classvery nicely gave you the same albeit less detailed reponse earlier, so be nice and go buy a top end gasket set, and just fix your bike like everyone else in your situation has done before

Well if you know everything just get on with it

Yeah i agree but for turbo maybe ?

So that would mean you could do a basic EFI conversion on a GSXR or GSF using the 1400 ECU etc

Yeah thats what i'm thining. I mean, if the crank fitting dimension of both rotors is the same, it's got to be just a question of timing. Maybe

Couldn't it just be the head gasket ? You'll be changing the O rings as well anyway. Buy genuine gaskets if you want the job to last

Hi Was randomly wondering whether the GSX 1400 could be fitted with a GSXR/GSF ignition plate and rotor, in order to easily run it with a stripped down electrical system using matching ECU and carbs ? Or would it be a much more invested technical project to convert ?

Measured 5mm on the same cog. And, tooth count on that shaft, from left to right : 1 : 43 2 : 29 3 : 30 4 : 33 5 : 28 6 : 35

Kat one will definitely be different by quite a few details, although based on my experience at least all the wire colour coding is the same from 1980 to at least 1998 on all Suzukis

750 will be the same i'd say