Blubber

I hope you did not use a infra red thermometer on a very shiny stainless steel pipe because of this: "EMISSIVITY AFFECTS INFRARED READINGS Think of a mirror, it reflects nearly all of the energy directed toward it. It will emit the infrared energy from the thermometer as well as its own radiated energy. Because of this, infrared temperature readings from low emissivity materials such as aluminum and stainless steel are not accurate. However, if an aluminum or stainless steel pan is coated in oil (organic material), the pan’s emissivity increases because of the thin film of oil on its surface" I have the burn marks to prove it Lessons learned.

Think you forgot these too "Just add a little Vandyck Brown "and “This is happy place; little squirrels live here and play.”

Wow. Lovely

Please re read this sites rules. Here It is about old suzuki motorcycles. Cars are not allowed here. Thank you.

Hi and welcome to OSS

Some the aftermarket filters already have that insert in it. This is just a quick search but you get the idea.

Hi and welcome

Hi and welcome. Expect to have to strip the clutch pack out for a clean and a good oil up before reassembly. Then...... Replace: the headstock bearings, wheel bearings, tires and schrader valves, brakepads front and back, sparkplugs and boots, fuel line, brake hoses front and back, brake fluid, oil in engine and front tubes, fuel, airfilter, battery , fuel tap, fuel shut off valves in the carbs / floats valves Grease: Swing arm bearings , clutch cable Clean: inside fuel tank, carbs, calipers 3x Check: Generator , all electrical connectors, valve clearance, floatheight, groundingpoint negative earth for low resistance Please don't be intimidated by this list. This is all well documented in the suzuki workshop manual or alternatively the haynes manual. A Professional workshop can do this in a full day if they ordered up the stuff upfront and have a ultrasonic cleaner. A simple novice may take a bit longer but it is easy to work on these olders bikes. Maybe dad can point / help out woth instructions.?

Hi _aabee_, Here on OSS it is considered thoughtful to post your intro prior to firing away your questions. We would like to know where the info ends up.

Hi Bob, Here on OSS it is considered thoughtful to post your intro prior to firing away your questions. I can understand your enthusiasm but we would like to know where the info ends up.

It all depends on the type of spark plug boot you have . Originals grip on just the threads. In general, the aftermarket ones use the bottle shape plug.

The top on left plug can be removed to look like the one one the right. Regular thread.

In short: The master link caught the casing?

Imagine a small row of staples ... Yep. It is a u shaped copper thingy and a spring. Like this

That left arm of the swing arm looks bent to me... might be the angle or lens distortion..which i hope for you.

Just type the suzuki partno on Google.. you will get some hits. CMSNL shows it is partnumber "1338349200" some results claim it fits both the GS1000 and GS1100 range. Needle type 5D58 is stated ofted. That needle type might give you more hits

Very confused ... is it a zebra... is it a pedestrian walk...? Just the cilinders silver to give it the big block look and i think it looks awesome . But thats just me

If you want cheap.. use what you have got

Thats a great idea

The ESD also is twin shock , round tube , correct era and an overall decent donor. It already has faring mounts on the frame and a good engine. This model:

I use the dust cover original to the frame. That was it seals the top and bottom of the head stock tube like intended

Only if you have a 4 into 1 collector limiting your ground clearance. You will probably be safe if you have a 4 2 2 or a 4 2 1 setup.

Powdercoat it black would be my preferred action... but thats not what you asked. No first hand experience with reanodising.

How come no one mentiones a 1920's inspired hillclimber ? Or an Amphi-bike?

A picture might help.