prichmon

It is the piece which passes through the bottom of the carb throat and the main jet screws into it in the bowl. I need the emulsion tube not the needle in the vacuum slide. The schematic shows p/n 40 and calls it a needle jet. I called Mikuni to see if they could help since the carbs are theirs. I was told all BS carb are OEM spec and they do not own any rights. From Partzilla: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1980/gs1100-lt/carburetor JET, NEEDLE (X-1) Not Available 09494-00267 by Suzuki

Would anyone be able to help me cross reference or find the needle jet for a 1980 gs1100lt 16 valve? I damaged one when I was rebuilding the carbs.Suzuki shows no longer available. Thanks Rich

Thanks for the replies guys. Where are you finding a 740 piston kit for 120? I'm very interested. So the vm22s will work so I will keep those and the stock airbox and such. I'll swap in the whole engine. Is the OEM 550 and 650 "e" pipes the same? My 550 is a little rougher than the 650. Is the 550 exhaust cam better than the 650? I plan to open the 650 to do valve clearance check. Someone cut the stator wires off the 650 so I'm going to swap the stator from the 550. Has anyone seen an article on painting the engine? The cases has some corrosion. Thank you Rich

Biggest issue with draw through is keeping the fuel suspended. Your intake tract becomes exponentially longer. Longer tract combined with any change in direction will result in coming out of suspension. The only factory unit I recall now is the pinto 2.0l turbo. It ran ~5psi. The drag racers were turn it up for more boost. Unfortunately the more boost was from increased speed which exacerbated the fuel suspension problem. You will also wear out the compressor turbine faster due to liquid fuel hitting the blades.

Turbo is the most efficient. Period. Also tends to be easier to install compared with sc. Hardest part is the plumbing. H2 afaik uses a rotrex supercharger. A turbo cold side with mods to be gear driven from the primary. The rotrex is as close to a turbo as you can get and still be supercharged. Roots Is the least efficient except new 4 lobe 160* twist units. You can snag cheap roots sc from the junkyard. Eaton m62s were used on gm 3.8l by, ford 3.8l. Toyota previa had small sc with a clutch like mad max or an ac compressor. Jackson racing used an eaton m45 for their kitsch on the civic and integras. Go turbo.

In the usa. 1 year only 1985. I'm looking at 800 for 1 complete and 1 donor parts bike. Various fairings and bits. Complete bike has the broken chain and rocker which I suspect at least 1 piston hit valves. The donor has a bad 2nd gear. If the engines could be repaired for moderate cost I'm in. I dont know until it comes out of the bike. If parts are interchangeable between 700 and 750es I have a much larger pool of parts to work from. If not I may be out of luck. Thanks Rich

The scope of work is as follows: Make a budget friendly sporty GS. I wish to clean and touch up rather than restore to keep the crusty character of the old girl. I need a reliable daily of the girl. Gs550l wire wheel $300 Gs650e parts bike $300 The 550 just don't have enough power and buzzes way too much. I am attempting to get max bang with minimal change. I'm a big guy and know the limitations of the 550 engine. It need more torque and hp. I wish to keep as many 550 parts as possible to simplify install, unless there is more performance to be had for cheap. I have been robbing 650e parts and buying reliability parts to upgrade the 550. Complete front forks, dual discs, dyna ignition system, cleaned and rejetted carbs, coil relay mod, sonic springs, all new fluids and preload set to my size. So I have been running through mod paths. 1... put 650 topend on 550 bottom. Keep the 6th gear, 25 pounds lighter. 2... install complete 650e engine. Simpler. No gaskets or other costs I am looking at the following for power and ease of install: which exhaust would be best? Which cams? 650 intake, 550 exhaust? What final drive? 650 for lower rpm or 550 for more torque? Which carbs? Do the CVs really gain that much? Do I need more carb if running stock airbox? Should I snag a set of 26s for a 750 and install on 550 racks? Thanks Rich

Is a gs700es rare and valuable enough to save even if it needs a engine rebuild?What is the thoughts of value on one with a broken timing chain? At least 1 broken rocker.Are the 700es' common enough to not be missed if a couple are parted?What interchanges between gs700 and 750 4 valves? Do all the bank and performance parts work?Thanks for your thoughts.Rich

Hello all; I am starting the process of my 550/650 build. I have a few questions which I was not positive the answer from my search. 1978 GS550 wire wheel. 1981 GS650E Can I run the VM22s from the 550? Will the CVs bolt to the airbox of the 550? What is the suggested starting point for the jetting with the 650 and VM22? Compression is 150-160psi. What is the stock compression? If I bought the 740 kit what is the starting point for jetting with the vm22s? Would larger VMs work from a 750 or larger? Could someone confirm I can run either of the head pipes and cans? Does the final drive need changed to better suit the bike? What are thoughts on doing a smaller more modern chain for efficiency? What are the advantages of the aluminum 1100 swingarm? Weight saving only? Can someone verify the intake 650 cam is the better of the 2 cams? Could a set of 750/850 cams work in the 650 head? I scalped the front end, dual disc setup from the 650E The foot pegs look like they would bolt up but the pegs would be at the wrong angle. Any idea on rubber mounted pegs which will bolt up? I'm sure Ill have more questions. Thanks for the help. Rich