Gixer1460

Whilst I do not agree with it - postage / delivery is a service and therefore vat is due. The fact that the service is paid for in a different country means VAT should not be levied - but try and explain that to HMRC, fat chance!

Be cautious just using gasket to determine squish. An uncompressed gasket maybe 1mm? but when compressed 0.5mm? but recommended safe squish is about 1mm (allows for rod stretch / avoidance of pre ignition) - some race engine builders go as tight as 0.5mm but really not advisable) So ideally you need the piston to be 0.5mm below deck height and allowing compressed gasket. Busa piston with dish compared to std. GSXR piston with raised crown makes big difference in CR.

You'll need a spacer as with the longer rods the pistons pop out of the barrels - though that would be obvious?

Cam cover washers are re-usable as long as the rubber moulded coating still resembles rubber and not dried out licorice! GSXR chain tensioners can back out and mayhem results - at 45k I think i'd deffo think about chain replacement and either new spring in the tensioner or replace with APE manual tensioner? Unless you've had the bike from new, you don't know the life the chain has had in regard to use or oil maintenance - err on side of caution! ps. Split cam chains are ok to use if you don't want to split the cases!

Thats the bit I don't understand? Maybe its definitions - for me, front of carb is air inlet side / back side is engine side. The vac pipe should be engine side or it won't see vacuum.

If the carbs flood on prime then they aren't shutting off on the floats - they may be clean, but if they leak, they ain't no good. I assume this is a vacuum fuel tap - one large hose is fuel delivery and the smaller one usually goes to a spigot on an inlet rubber or similar vacuum source?

If it's turning slow and the leads are getting warm and its a DOT head i'd suspect compression maybe a culprit ! Assume you are using decent size jump cables - not those pissy 'hardly fit for purpose' 10mm cables - ideally min. 25mm sq welding type cables for least resistance!

Not at all - trying to keep the gasket in place whilst inverted and squeezing it past all the obstructions is a fate worse than death as witnessed by the posts due to oil leaks and displaced gaskets . Can try grease, but it's not as sticky!

you must have that "new style" gravity defying set-up ...... I understand the solution but it does seem overly complicated! People often say the scavenge systems will suck oil from the bearings but I don't see how that is possible? The core & bearings are a sealed unit with oil in and oil out - if you suck oil out it has to be replaced via the oil in line which is pressurised to point of use and will also be acted on by vacuum from the scavenge ensuring oil is drawn into the bearings. Reinhoud's modification with an added breather just stops the vacuum so relying on only oil pressurisation for oil delivery - a moot point with roller bearing engines ! ! !

Hmmm - confusion! 'M' rubbers won't take 46mm spigots - i've made tapered adapters from 46 to 40mm to suit the rubbers! The motor was built for a turbo, lower CR, turbo cams and timing and yes it was an arm stretcher but it has no shortage of torque when used NA. - FCR's , Akro pipe & Dyna2000

I won't advise one way or the other except to say I have the big ones for a 1460 engine and using 1100 'M' rubbers when NA and 46mm Taper Throttle Bodies with EFI and turbo, Big motors have big lungs so shouldn't have to breathe through straws.

Gravity doesn't really work if the turbo core drain is below the running oil level - its not a new phenomenon!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tpi-368-infrared-non-contact-pocket-thermometer/8577k - not too spendy!

There are two versions of Dyna 2000 - early ones were pre-programmed with fixed advance and retard curves, the later ones (2000i) were programmable and curves could be changed. Early ones had the orange wire, later used a purple and a white. How are you testing this to get the results you are? What value of retard are you dialing in?

That's pretty much std factory solution - maybe ok for emissions regulations but a) burning fumes is not as good as fuel / air and b) modified engines tend to breathe heavy and filling the airbox with oil isn't recommended ......... besides who uses airboxes anyway LOL!

Graphogen may have affected the plates and why in Gods name did you use Brake Fluid to soak the plates ? ? ? It maybe oil but you don't use it in an engine! Whilst the oil you've used as a flush maybe touted for bikes only certain bikes tend to 'get on with it' - and with what you've done to your plates they are likely not to like fully synth oil! BTW are they genuine Suzuki or aftermarket - the latter would also be a concern! Sorry its not looking good!

That's no VFR arm - they used 4 bolt wheels. That's even better - its an RC30 arm with possibly a Marvic wheel? Could it be an RGV frame? I know jack about 2 strokes!

I defy anyone to notice any measurable difference 1 tenth of a ratio makes unless its with detonation?

Minimal - maybe 0.25 tops but you need sealant which will lose most of that so why bother!

There's a project for someone with a 3D printer - leverless std. microswitch in printed frame with diaphragm and plunger ? What sort of pressure are you wanting to operate at? I'm guessing with all the solid state electronics on cars nowadays, old skool 'mechanical' stylee Hobbs switches are becoming redundant?

Is there a 'kin echo in here?

What ever you use make sure its 'oil safe' ie. won't degrade whilst in contact with oil. Sounds daft but acrylic tube will last about 3-6 months before it goes brittle and cracks. If you can find Viton in the right bore that should be ok.

Answered your own question - winner winner chicken dinner LOL!

What are you doing to them - they are probably one of the most reliable bits in the Ignition system - I've never had one fail across multiple bikes over 25 odd years? It's a simple coil of wire and magnetic field that generates a voltage when a ferrous object passes through it - there is virtually nothing to fail ? ? ?

That doesn't make any sense - if there is only 1 vac. port how would you vac. sync them? Usually all carbs will have vac. port for sync use that MUST be capped when bike is in use! Fuel tap vacuum is usually via inlet boot nipple which again shouldn't be left open if gas tap is changed to non vacuum!