Gixer1460

LOL's - a 'senior moment' - comes to us all ! I would guess that due to the stroke difference of 1mm there would be a block difference also - that being said the drain tubes aren't exactly a precise machined piece and have considerable 'slack' for movement within the block and head .............................. so are probably the same part !

No more - no less reliable. . . . . just down to materials, where they are made and QA checking! OEM will generally be best overall.

My comment was a generalisation but it was partially said ......... The actual starter circuit ie. ign. sw. / starter button / starter solenoid shouldn't draw more than a few amps, whilst the heavy cable between battery / solenoid / starter motor carries over 100+ amps. Poor starter performance often due to loose connections / poor earths, but a clean out of a 40 year old motor isn't bad advice either!

Eh? The wires from the RR shouldn't go anywhere near the starter motor / relay or switch! 3 yellow wires from genny direct to RR inputs. Output wires from RR - black to earth / chassis ground and red to battery! Original Suzuki wiring has a RR output wire to the light switch which is acknowledged as a really daft idea leading to poor lights and charging and defective RR's. Duff brand new batteries aren't unknown either - a good battery should spin a motor over for at least a minute! Hopefully you have a decent RR and not one of the chinese rip off one's from Eblag!

On a paddock, oil loss should be minimal - there will be some but it ain't gonna flood out. Any common thin o ring which is approx the right dia or smaller can be stretched over will seal as its not under any pressure.

The PWM controller may work if the fuel demand / use is fairly linear - boosted engines are anything but linear! For the sake of adding a return fitting into the pump mount flange, a boost referenced FPR on the end of the fuel rail really is the simplest and most reliable system that just works!

I don't think they carry massive power at all so a 1/4 or 1/2w should be plenty?

Agreed - you can't mix and match pickups / plates / CDI's unless from the same model bike / engine.

Just a thought regarding the 1st one - yes 'orrible lights but if they were quick detach stylee then they'd make sense - daylight racebike don't need lights and don't need to carry extra weight around and secondly night time running is generally at a slower pace so the added draggy lights wouldn't be such a penalty? - just my thoughts - may be way off!

These have a good rep - haven't used personally so can't recommend! https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/services/motorcycle-shock-absorber-repairs/suzuki-gsxr1100-shock-absorber-rebuild-repair-service/ They do have prices and menu of potential extra's - hope that helps!

Plenty with a quick Google search! Please do a search at least first as some may think you're lazy LOL! http://www.guagerepairs.com/ ....... https://speedycables.com/instruments/gauge-repairs-conversions/ ....... https://gaugerestore.webs.com/

Whilst a comp test is a good 1st stage diagnostic tool, it's good to try a leak down test which will give a definitive point toward either rings or valves without engine disassembly. Regarding the post above, a wet test is still informative. A single lower increase could point toward defective rings in that cylinder, a similar pick up across all cylinders could point towards the valves, no / low pick up across all would likely prove poor rings but i'd still prefer to use the leak down for confirmation.

BOV shouldn't make any difference to boost excepting that boost pressurisation has to build again after opening. BOV should only open when vacuum present. So how much boost was it making if not '0' ?

Whether it's been done now or not - the 40's are a total PITA to tune without std airbox and exhaust - Suzuki San got it pretty right in the factory. A super top end and shite mid range is not tuned IMO - the 36's are sooooo much better at doing everything and will still represent a decent hop up from 32's.

And throw that crappy boost gauge away - you don't need to know vacuum and its obviously making boost @ 6-7k revs! Classic detonation + cast piston = scrap metal! You need a decent oil filled, air pressure gauge 0 - 15psi / 0 - 1bar

I would guess the electrical tolerances should be 'tighter' with an OEM unit so requiring better components to avoid / minimise failure risk and obviously the knock on risk of a warranty claim? Usually if OEM, the quality control is higher so rejection rate automatically raises the per unit cost? Can't back any of that up but seems logical to me - bit like a set of pistons from 'Whoflungdung' @ £200 against a set from 'Wiseco' @ £600 - which would you trust?

I know Sean well - his advice can be trusted.

When I saw the s/hand cranks quoted at £200 and knowing that bearings, even at £100 a piece + labour pulling it apart and pressing back again, no one will be selling a fresh refurbed crank for £200...... @ £750 it still would be cheap IMO! The mains often seem worn but it does take a lot to actually kill them - best to get advice from a experienced crank builder. They don't need welding if you keep the rev's under control, if you buzz them, they will twist.

Yeah but stay away from the seats and don't push to hard or you'll bend the stem!

Don't think the wires on the clock are original as from the manual they should be orange/green = ign sw. 12v, Black / yellow = tach signal from CDI and Black / white = ground / earth. The tach can often be black / red or red / black as in your 2nd photo.

I thought you were 'the land of the free' ? Not when it comes to Highways obvs!

Others will swear std. are fine - personally I wouldn't trust them!

I thought they were HD types from 1st photo - 2nd shows they are std waisted types - so stick with std torque figures! If they were HD then a single replacement would be ok but as i've only ever replaced std with HD I don't know about a std single replacement - should be ok though. I think i'd be checking the rest and then be prepared for others to let go! Re. over torque - heavy nitrous and / or multiple bar boost requires more clamping pressure.

From above all I can add is - why are you sitting in traffic? You have a bike not a car - filter or avoid traffic! Even a huge cooler will be of little use if stationary or crawling speed - any cooler needs airflow! Oil technology is far better than in the 80's , far more heat tolerant and i'm sure the factory stress tested these engines far more, for far longer than you think you are doing.

First off 27 ftlbs is no way near enough to snap a HD stud - unfortunately I guess this one was defective or if second hand / used, then already stretched beyond its tensile limit - i've taken these to 60lbs although more usually 45lbs! Whilst your noted method is unusual it could work but you have to protect from metal shavings from the stud being clamped to undo, escaping into the crankcase. I'd use plenty of cloth or paper towel to catch anything. Problem occurs if there is damage to the crankcase threads ie. cross threaded - then a full strip is inevitable!