Gixer1460

Probably very true! Just cos you give an engine a bigger mouth it'll have a correspondingly bigger venturi. That needs a higher airspeed over it to induce low pressure to draw the fuel up . . . . you can increase the MJ to the moon and it'll issue very little more fuel. Suzuki San used 29mm slide and 34mm CV carbs for a reason - good gas speed at majority of operating range. If racing and long periods at high rpm then larger bore carbs can work but they'll have pants midrange!

LOL's - well you did say 'shop services' and that is 'shop services' ! And, I bet they do if you ask them - maybe not 'off the shelf' ?

How in the hell could you miss a section that says 'Shop Services'? - https://www.orientexpress.com/c-99-shop-services.aspx

Just followed the clues Pal - just followed the clues LOL! But the point above regarding the coil resistances is also valid - low ohm COP's draw a lot more amps and OEM CDI's do struggle with that and can over-heat to the point that output falls away - may be something to bear in mind!

Do you read the answers?

As using original ECU it must be running wasted spark and problem with 1 & 4 ties in with this - I'd trace all the wiring for dodgy contact, frayed or partially shorting wire. Looking at MJ and accel pumps doesn't help if the idles or emulsion tubes are dirty - 5 weeks storage / E10 fuel / low fuel level / water vapour contamination ? ? ?

And if the company doing the boring is any good - give them all the pistons and they will bore / hone the barrels to suit each piston and mark them #1,2,3 & 4. Regarding the piston pictured with some scoring - i'd suspect a degree of crushed lands partially trapping the ring? They aren't the strongest in this respect and its a usual point of failure in boosted engines. Valves may look good but until they are out and checked for straightness, the jury is still out!

New York or New York State - they should have a good rep - they've been building Fast Suzuki's for 40+ years!

Pretty much ^^^ said above! MTC pistons have material enough for some decent dish machining - DON'T just machine the tops flat and drop them down the holes! Likewise as you've got turbo pistons - use them to adjust the CR, not spacer plates if they can be avoided! Do not lose the squish band - its worth having, if only for its anti detonation benefits. Love the claim re the Maxspeeding Rods - in what universe have they been tested to that level? Your 400hp aim is admirable, but seriously I think, maybe beyond your means / present understanding ie. like speed, HP costs money and 400hp is going to cost lots. If you can achieve the CR with head and piston work, a normal Blandit base gasket is all that is needed!

Or multiply by 0.6 ! Or get a speedo healer - a gearbox that fits on the back of the speedo so needle uses old numbers but will be in mph.

As my oil rad was curved, having the IC in front of it wasn't an option + personally, sticking another radiator in front of a cooling radiator seems counter productive to me! As my IC is about 2/3rds the area of the oil rad and 2" / 50mm thick, its difficult to fit anywhere 'inconspicuously' LOL!

Seems to have coped ok - having a big battery helps balance the loads, it was a DMS 700 equal to a Varley Red Top 25, 20A/h, 230 CCA.

Well it isn't a race bike, it was built for the road and it is the only cooling. Mind you it does have a billet bespoke big block with extensive finnage so that helps!

Tongue in Cheek remark, sarcasm ! ! ! Besides RS34's ain't standard are they! LOL!

Carbonfibre hugger on mine - I seriously wouldn't run without, engine oil loss is bad enough but oil on a tyre at speed is terminal !

Possibly, but throw a 1085 or 1135 kit at it with RS36's and it'll wake right up . . . . . who builds std. GS1000's anyway

Seconded - granted mine is a GSXR, but it takes a std. curved 'M' oil rad with a R6 fan run off thermo switch in the sump.

Its possible, if timing was out a couple of teeth, that you've bent some valves which can mess with valve clearances and compression tests - overly wide ring gaps certainly aren't going to help that either. If you know the engine is worn / weak, it'll never run or tune right! Fix all the problems before even contemplating 'power adders'!

Personally I see no advantage running two vents from the same area into the same vent can - would have more effect if one from cam cover / rocker cover and other from clutch cavity! Also why does the front end look like you've run into a bus in the picture? Just going by headstock and fork angles?

Or Sprocket cover even ! A complete braided hose kit can be sourced here in the UK or do as a lot of peeps do and DIY them - SS fittings recommended, measure twice, cut once, clean and methodical - easy peasy! Its not rocket science to do.

Who, back in the day, would have advised a DJ kit ! The amount of hours required trying to get stock components to work is inversely proportional to just fitting a kit and having it work 95% of the time out of the box! Worn out a few DJ needles - never an emulsion tube! Mind you all the kits I used had both DJ tubes and needles! Yes a DJ kit can be spendy but no worse than 2hrs dyno time which would hardly get you anywhere with stock components IMHO.

If genuine NOS they'll have the advantage of not being heat cycled or oil soaked so better than old 'good' second-hand pieces! Finding them is the problem! Good luck with that as both listed as order / out of stock and the rear one is £350+ so big OUCH!

Sort of depends on use really! If it's a low mileage, been stored in a barn for 30 years then they may be ok but rubber compounds + oil + heat + age = inbuilt obsolescence! Look for hardened and cracked rubbing surfaces and if in doubt, chuck it out! as a broken tensioner guide will make a mess of any engine!

Venhill do list a conversion but its late model GSX-S 2015-2020 etc. and most of these bikes have fairly lt.wt. clutches in the first place - not Manly clutches! As they seem to do a lot with dirt bikes, I guess its a carry over just to avoid snapped cable syndrome!

Not std. Suzuki there isn't but many have McGuiver'd something to achieve hydraulic operation.