Gixer1460

And then, even if they are different, which is the better to use! Probably 2/10ths of FA difference, if any, in real world use LOL!

I think the OP is referring to the fixing ctrs. of the adaptor. Plus - pretty sure Clive's picture has answered the question! Pingel's are pretty low profile in ht. terms, some OEM taps might be lower but don't flow as well ! If you do have interference problems its either a case of jacking the tank up to clear or move the tap position! I used to raise my tank 1/2" for clearance - it was hardly noticeable!

Exactly as Suzuki San recommended. What size engine makes not a jot of difference to valve clearances!

Simple answer - No! You are stuck with the drive gears off the starter clutch pack, the crankcase mounting is fairly single type only, fits affair and as std., the integrated electrics are ok ie. they don't have a particular reputation for failing unlike the earlier AC engines! Smaller 'race' type alternators have been belt driven off the end of the crank but its a lot of engineering, faffing about and they look goddam awful even with the best Rose Tinted glasses! Whether a crank mounted alternator could be made to work is debatable - IMO the limited rpm of the crank would limit alt. output as they are normally geared to spin at 2 or 3x engine rpm!

True if NA, but you'll still have the biggest restriction which is the turbine. A ported head on the intake helps cylinder filling efficiency hence lower boost for equivalent HP but a ported exhaust only really benefits from a good polish! This minimises heat transfer, keeping gases hotter helps drive the turbo better!

In that case, this sums up your predicament perfectly ! . . . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKDi6ym3Ny0

I guess you've already tried the screwdriver / blunt lever through the hole, block of wood on the case for protection and lever it out?

I maybe wrong, but shouldn't there be a brass ball plug here ^^^ ? An Ultrasonic will not have caused that - unless it was ridiculously loose to start with ! And no, an ultrasonic won't get hot enough to either re-seat it or get it out! They are usually oversize for the drilling and force fitted from outside!

The one the factory should have / could have built - would have sold shed loads! Just about everything with that bike is 'as it should be'!

And why change the swinger - its got a 5" slot FFS! You'll only sell it at a loss then want another when the bug bites again! Only cost is a new chain!

Don't need a side light for MOT!

Nah - Burn the Bindit . . . . . that Kat in the background looks FAAAAAR more interesting - barndoor intercooler NICE!

Again this is my preference, I prefer to (if possible) deck the pistons to as close to the top of the barrels and use a head gasket that will give 0.035 - 0.040" / about 1mm max squish. A good squish band will assist in supressing detonation and improve power for lower boost. The MTC piston crown's are quite thick so combustion bowl can be enlarged to tailor the CR required - another bonus.

Competition vehicles and Drag orientated machinery in particular get torn down so regularly that any fastener used is unlikely to vibrate loose over time, if super critical, Loc-Wire is preferred for speed and ease and visual inspection. The Loctite product used will be either a semi permanent thread lock ie. for things like cylinder studs into crankcase - these are very rarely touched but need a firm hold so semi-permanent product used, others would be rubber inlet stubs to cylinder head screws etc. Other fixings that will be subject to vibration but will be undone more frequently ie. during services - Points covers, clutch covers etc. would use a weaker blue thread loc. Personally i've never used ANY permanent thread loc - always Blue stuff if used at all - actually quite rarely. I will however use either copper slip or moly slip greases on most fasteners where steel is against aluminium or steel in cast iron - basically as an anti seize which is far more important in my view!

MTC have been supplying turbo pistons since forever! Many installs have been completed and championships won with MTC equipment. Personally I'd use the 80mm / 1186cc kit - easier to bore, leaves more metal in the liner and you've an overbore left if it goes 'pete tong' 10:1 CR may be considered a bit high but for 200hp you won't be using a lot of boost and a 1mm decomp plate is an easy fix if lower required for more boost later! Pretty sure this kit started out as made for the GSX1100 as about the ONLY off the shelf turbo pistons back in the day! Busa pistons are the cheap route but are a one shot deal - break a piston or rings and could be new barrels + rebore ! I usually plan on doing something once and spending to achieve that is ok - for me!

I did that - not a minefield but not completely straightforward either, and it did what it was required to do. The turbo install was just for a look, see as the built compression was well north of 13:1. As piccies are always appreciated . . . . .

Nice one CR - what bike is it from? The description on the Red / Black makes sense with the switch link to the neutral wire / plug now!

That's actually a Clymer Manual Diagram . . . . . . and it is correct for colours and numbers of wires! Blandit mk1's have a wire that colour that tracks down to the neutral switch, but their connectors have additional wires also! But it could be part of a rev limiting 'anti wheelie' circuit - certainly not fitted to GSXR's!

I don't know if they've progressed any since I was party to some of the SSB inner workings but their air set-up's then were just about enough to complete 5 shifts and hold boost as programmed for 6 seconds. The boost control applied air above and below the WG diaphragm with a moderately 'softer' spring to give a wider dynamic boost range. Its a great control but uses a lot of air as its effectively a controlled leak. I played with an AMS1000 controller using gear settings to vary boost but never got it sorted sufficiently to say if it was good or not - but for a road bike, not having to rely on high pressure air for control was a bonus - for me at least!

'taint nothing wrong with an NTV rear end - wheel out and back in less than a minute and change brake pads in a similar time! They f**ked up big time with the NT's and a double sided arm and ridiculous brake set up . . . . . . . . yes i'll admit NTV's and a NT were my daily for 11 - 12 years, all year round till I retired!

I used to think so also but seeing the underside of one made me think cast ! - Happy to be proved wrong though!

Generally agree but std. OEM cast pistons don't last well with boost - maybe sub 0.5 bar ok, but much more and bye bye! Ring lands crush with heat and pressure, trap rings = massive blow by. Busa pistons are cast but seem to be better than most and can tolerate some good boost but even they have their limits @ about 280hp level. GSXR / Blandit rods usually safe at your target although how much more over, is open to debate LOL!

@Sandman a well reasoned argument although in the UK at least, not strictly accurate! Our E10 is mandated to be of minimum 95 octane ie. the same as previous E5 so even if the 5% extra ethanol made 2/10th's of f**k all difference to the overall octane rating, the inclusion of 10% ethanol by volume (ethanol having about a 1/3rd less energy v's petrol) produces a 'blend' with maybe 5% less overall energy content, so you have to burn more to get the same 'work energy' out. Yes, E85 is fabulous in a boosted engine, running daft boost numbers to take advantage of the high octane but using nearly 2:1 quantities, and in a country (UK) that has very few actual outlets that have E85 is a moot point + if you run out and the only garage you can find has E10 - you are having a pretty slow ride home staying out of the boost LOL!

Nope nothing - I mapped my EFI equipped turbo engine (9:1 CR) by just disconnecting the boost pipe from turbo to plenum - even breathing for a big engine through a 2" dia hole and having a turbine in the way of the exhaust, it made 180+ rwhp. If running a 'loose' engine on a stand, sometimes an exhaust can help in retaining some hearing LOL! Edit : just saw the above pic - yes that would have to go, if I have a stock one, i'll buy that one off you and send you mine?

Same spec as was on mine - 1186 kit was Wiseco and I think 12.5:1. Did make 144rwhp so it was good! IMO unless you have the 2000i Dyna you are stuck with their 'stock' ign. curves! At least with the 2000i you can attempt to knock some timing out in the midrange if knock happens but is still not optimal. At least using E10 you can actually run a bit more timing to recover the losses due to its lower energy content LOL!