Gixer1460

Its . . . . . . Its . . . . . . . . A CAR ! ! ! Same rules apply - get it as high above static oil level as possible but of course that affects C of G which can have more side effects than desired in 4 wheeled 'Ltwt' vehicles. Hope the sump baffling is good - dry sump would be ideal of course!

Sounds like a draw through install - if so, they never need a pump, gravity drain is easy to achieve. Just keep drain line back to cases above static oil level. But that far back could introduce lag into the delivery, most would have the turbo behind the cylinder block.

I assume that there is a FPR somewhere? 'Most' installs have the regulator after the injectors - at the rail outlet or soon after. This negates the 'path of least resistance' thought as the whole rail will be at pressure, at all times. If fuel exits, say, between 3 & 4, the pressure will be the same but fuel 'may' stagnate as there is no flow past it - although the effect should be minimal as it will be used and replaced through use. I have two rails with 8 injectors - in bottom left, loop from bottom to top on right, with FPR on outlet top left - no problems with differential flows or pressure over injectors. If one cylinder is persistently showing a lean condition it might be a dirty or sticky injector? A clean and flow test may be wise as its unlikely to 'get better' with use!

I'd disagree! The fact that an EFI system generally can allow accurate fuel delivery - more or less - at any rpm or load and that ignition timing can be dialled in, also to those parameters means detonation can be minimised to the extent of being virtually un-detectable. It may still occur if a bad batch of fuel is used or climatic conditions are unfavourable but its unlikely to be engine destruction type det. As noted above, det. largely occurs around peak torque and as turbos can produce such wide torque bands the option to take out or add in timing in particular areas will reduce risk. Personally, this is one reason I ask a dyno tuner to step tune when developing a MAP - go up rev range in steps and stop at each whilst allowing figures to stabilise and optimise fuel & timing there before moving to next step. It puts the engine under a LOT of load for minutes at a time and most tuners don't like doing it but I figure I don't ride at max rpm and max output at all times so I want these areas to be optimal not just at WOT!

Of course they have a VIN! It may not be the 'modern' 17 character one - because they were from an era when it wasn't required! The letters and numbers on the headstock are the chassis number - that is what the vehicle registration uses for VIN.

Would new seats be required? - GSX seats as std can take pretty big valves without changing. But agree on the stem size thing - I wasn't sure about relative diameters. It could be possible to 'sleeve' the oversize GSX guide down to Busa stem size - its involved and needs the correct machinery ie. a Serdi but could be done. I doubt it would be cheap though, but neither is making custom guides!

Is It? I mean firing order? Normal order is 1-3-4-2 and will have same characteristics as you describe?

would the bike shop be 'Bill Bunn Motorcycles by any chance? That hourly rate is about the norm these days especially for London!

None of my bikes has ever had a fuel gauge and although they do have reserve i've never actually run out. If you have a trip meter, re-set it everytime you fill up and providing you know approx tank range, you know when to start looking for fuel!

If the studs are different - No! Probably could be adapted but what an arse ache!

Normally just use cam gears that match the crank - GS bottom - GS cam gears. I've used gsx gears in a gsxr head on a efe bottom end. I thought Suzuki used same stud pattern all through GS, GSX & GSXR ranges.

Mostly anything is possible - just down to time, money and tools to achieve! The issues likely with your proposal is 1. Base gasket joint / mating surfaces between cases and cylinder block, 2. Area around cam chain tunnel in block and cylinders and 3. GSX Cylinder sleeve OD dim fitting into GS case holes. Obvs GSX head and cylinders will match but you will have to make sure GS piston pin small end size matches GSX pistons proposed - GSX early was 18mm / GSX late was 20mm and I believe GS were 18mm (but don't quote me!) Cam chain slippers may be a mish mash to suit!

You seem to be new to the conversation? Is this the same bike / what bike are you referring to? Look at the picture further up - it shows the Ignition box (most look similar) #29 - usually found somewhere near the battery / under seat or side panels. What are you planning to check as generally they work or they don't!

Probably just the B12 due to the piss poor CR! I'm wary about using 4 or 5 deg advancers - not a thing that works with higher CR's nor piss weak fuel and can make starting a chore if battery is a bit dickie!

Interesting ! Robinson's list two lengths - an early at 100.0 and a later at 105.0 ! The earlier has a superseded part # but its revised to the later one ! ! ! Guess its check engine # time! CMS on the other hand only quote one part # 23111- 05A01 but no length given but compatible with 1100 K, L, M & N - so, all the Slingshots.

Has it worked ok before? They are notorious for not bleeding easily although the few i've done came good after a while! If it has worked previously, then the rod length is correct - if parts (ie. cover / clutch) have been changed then all bets are off . . . . unfortunately!

Never - not one (or at least he never told me LOL) Seriously though, Kevin's was a baby motor - only 1371cc. I believe Brock's were punched out to 1500cc maybe more & so were using billet cranks by necessity. Kevin's were reworked std Suzuki and as both Ken Cooper and Big CC had fingers in his engine at various times - who knows who did the crank work. Never had a spare though unlike the ProMod !

If you want to save on the cost of junking fresh oil - diesel will work for flushing - at least you can then run that through a car or truck - Win / Win!

New or old, if a battery is goosed - its goosed! I managed to kill a brand new battery between work and home approx 30 miles - mainly motorway and lights on, to the point that it was misfiring 1 or 2 miles from home - a duff regulator / rectifier will do that for you! I'd say the battery is deffo suspect as they don't like deep cycling, and maybe the genny as Arttu says the AC output is low!

I guess you don't get sarcasm

No, it's a Blandit ! RTFR's

I would guess the pin-out pattern will be similar / follow the GSXR (as the obvious competition variant) but without the tacho output from the RHS plug ?

I think you are confusing this GS head with a GSX one - all head nuts on GS head are external, so just need steel / copper washers.

My Brain hurts !

that explains a bit ! so if you used gsx pistons in a gsxr you should get a similar low CR?