Gixer1460

Bluing is usually surface burnt oil - will come off with scotchbrite - they'd have to get actually red hot to lose temper and properly 'blue up'

Hmmm not a common conversion but if it works....... Straight cuts may be $425 but also have to factor in ££ for a crank and clutch rebuild just to fit the gears!

Different ignition ecu, different clocks etc so you'd need the Blandit plugs anyway unless you swopped to everything to suit the loom.

Agreed - minimal weight will hold loads - 10mm M6 SS cap screw and nyloc x4 ok with 370hp and disengagement was fine! Std. lentgh and poundage springs are fine - the lock up takes care of the rest. H/Duty springs are heavy in the fingers and a turbo will usually blow through them anyway!

No - Virtually no one ever does external lines to feed the head on GSXR based motors - the above picture is a GSX which are more suitable but still need some work to block off the std. feeds if using external lines. Oil lines for turbo and for cam feeds don't need to be the same place - its just more convenient.

Bindits have bits no others have so unless you want to start hacking and chopping (which you might anyway) then stick with Bindit!

Very Nice Ken - now show how to do it on a Bandit! My Kawazuki coped fine with APE studs and turbo feed off the main gallery. The GSXR range have excessive oil pressure which is regulated down so additional flow will be compensated for by the relief valve.

70cm doesn't seem that deep - sort of nearly carb height? If so - there may be no water in it whatsoever? How else would it get in?

A M8 had FCR41's on his 1216 Bindit and although they were set up they were just too big for everyday use. He's now got RS36's and likes them better, he can use them more and gives plenty power for the street - it'll loft the wheel in 3rd so happy bunny. 38's might be the ultimate for road application!

To a degree - Yes. The cases aren't physically weak but the bolting method and layout is. With BIG power the crankshaft and gearbox shafts can move about and they try to 'climb' over each other causing the cases to jack apart. No one has really solved it using std. cases - HD studs and nuts help, oversided if your into major engineering. That's why the Pro1 billet cases were developed and promptly banned by NHRA et al - bit daft as stronger cases could reduce the cost of racing!

I can only speak about 3 extreme GSX applications - Kev Charman's Nitrous CB and FB's, The Jones & Friend FB and Big CC's 1540 Nitrous EFE - all used Suzuki 493 rods and all were making up to 400hp without failure. Forced induction makes the power but is generally easier on rods unless you over rev them. PSB's will use 493's but due to the revs, they'll be swopping cranks every couple of meetings (or passes in the USA!)

It won't go 'less tight' as the ratchet will hold it static but you will lose spring tension against the plunger. If its just one click you want then loosen the two mounting screws so whole tensioner backs off by a mm which is about one click on the ratchet - you could bollux the gasket if its never been removed since being built!

Who told you that? RR Dynojet dynos only give rear wheel horsepower - nothing else! It may be converted / corrected to recognised standards but its still power at the wheel. Unlike car dynos there is not enough inertia in a bike driveline to obtain a 'losses' figure so any crankshaft figure is purely speculative.

Compare two different screws for the taper - the odd one is probably a rogue replacement!

if you are quoting stock horsepower (155) then the manufacturers tend to quote crankshaft horsepower not rear wheel. Yours is a bit down as i would expect 10% difference on average?

'Ventolin' cos I imagine it'll be a tad asthmatic?

The red seat is vomit inducing! Not a good look IMO

Just got off the bone with a M8 having similar problems and has just taken the bike apart, chasing all the wire connections, plugs etc and cleaned and checked everything, carbs checked, coils checked, plug caps and leads all with no effect - still pissy weak pathetic sparks. Swopped out the 'new' plugs that have probably done less than 200 miles for some old ones that were well past their best and it fired up clean as you like on 4 cyls when it wouldn't run at all! I haven't seen the plugs but suspect Chinky Fakes - sometimes cheap is TOO cheap! These came from a Dealer which is worrying if fakes are in the mainstream supply chain!

1mm will deffo sound tappetty ........says the man who did the clearances on both cylinders of a Vee engine WITHOUT turning it 360 degrees! DOH ! ! ! BTW it sounded shocking!

Simple answer is.............................................................it makes 2/10ths of f**k all difference! (Clutch guy with Championship wining Comp and Funnybike team)

No noise when standard but noise now with taller? pistons, closer valve - piston clearances? and possibly incorrect cam timing? and there's lots of reasons for noises! What engine is it, would be a start for diagnosis?

You've got your dipping mixed up - Japan and UK dip to left, rest of the world (sort of) dip to right. Some motorcycles are centre dip to avoid the left / right supply problems. Surely you can tell what its doing if its ready for an MOT?

My own opinion is...... water is your primary coolant so loss of oil cooler whilst a concern isn't crucial. As the engine will be working harder, it would make more sense to increase water rad / system capacity! You could fit a remote oil to water cooler elsewhere later if required. With a plain bearing turbo, any oil pressure above 30 psi is ok providing the drain has capacity to drain it! I've used Dash 4 oil feed restricted and un-restricted on two different builds. Ideally you want the turbo higher than the filter - having to remove all that junk just to change a filter gets old very quickly!

I guess if using bored out VM29's @33mm works with a 750 then see no reason why not although they'd probably benefit from a few more modifications to get the full benefit!

Try running up a hill with your mouth stapled shut - similar effect!