Gixer1460

Usual symptom of an intake air leak and / or a slightly frayed cable inner - either way, excess air!

Yeah - Phone Stuart at Warpspeed Racing - UK made and works well!

Maybe ok as a supplementary cooler for a car but I consider dash 8 hose undersized for main cooling pipe on an oil cooled engine, dash 10 minimum IMO!

Personally I wouldn't go smaller than a 19 row regular width, wide type if you prefer slightly better cooling if any performance mods in future are planned. 19 row regular worked for me on a streetbike with turbo fitted - but it did get BLOODY HOT! at lower speeds LOL!

1/8" NPT would be about right.

Anywhere between high 13's and 14.5v depending on rpm's

Loads!......... Try this one - https://www.oldbritts.com/brake_line.html They have a nice alloy hose clamp, i've managed using the vee in a workmate for years, or without using a Dremel. The one thing that MUST BE DONE is ensure the olive is seated right down on to the inner pipe. I usually tap it on with small hammer then holding the hose, olive end down, smack the olive face against the bench to drive it on - you'll see the inner clearly when its fully home. And that's it! PS - don't forget to put the 'nut' on the pipe, over the masking wrap, before cutting / flaring - you won't do it after - Trust me!

Respectable and the right noise!

Brakehoses don't need to be swaged! DIY build will need a sharp fine bladed hacksaw or Dremel cut off wheel, a sharp knife to de-bur the teflon inner hose, some masking tape, a 7/16 or 1/2" spanner and a metal vise - thats it!

I can't speculate but any wideband controller i've seen are either in a box about the size of a packet of fags, one's like the Innovate one above or built into a read-out gauge. They are fairly complicated electronics to heat and keep the sensor at a constant temperature, do the comparison between gas sampled and its baseline, and then change a millivolt output and scale it up to something between 0 and 5v!. The company response would worry me unfortunately as they can't be sure?

Did some digging and downloaded / installed the SX Tuner software that had a manual attached and found this..... " Closed loop fuelling control is provided by using either a narrowband lambda sensor connected directly to the ECU lambda input or by using a wideband sensor connected via an external wideband sensor controller with a 0-5V analogue output. Narrowband sensor control can only be used to target exhaust lambda of 1.00 (AFR 14:7 with petrol/gasoline), normally for exhaust emissions reduction using a three-way catalytic converter. Wideband sensor control can be used to target any air-fuel ratio and also for tuning. SC recommends that wideband control is not left turned on permanently, but only used as a tuning tool. Wideband sensors and controllers are not generally reliable enough to use for long periods of time and a faulty sensor could give incorrect feedback into the ECU and cause the engine to run dangerously lean, resulting in engine failure. Once the engine has been correctly calibrated there is no need to continue using wideband lambda sensor control." So without seeing the actual install I can't see if a controller has been installed but it should be fairly obvious ...... see this.... Hope this helps not hinders?

Not seeing that in their blurb! It says narrow or wideband CONTROL ie. of fueling, not how the sensor works. You must have a wiring diagram for fitting it - even if you didn't fit it? A copy / look at that would confirm?

As you have that Tornado ecu, I can't look at the software or the schematics so don't know if it has an internal controller but it would be unusual ie even Motecs rely on standalone controllers and just take the output like any other sensor. This is a wideband lambda? otherwise if it was narrow band ie 1, 2, 3 or 4 wire then it wouldn't have a controller as it generates its own voltage from 0 - 1v only though!

Sounds like an issue with the Lambda controller - I think the Innovate controllers have a diagnostic function to test the sensors but obviously if its the controller thats fubar'd you are in the dark whatever!

Even Lectron Fuel Systems don't recommend use on the road - says a lot IMO.

Well known problem and yes its a case split but you don't have to strip the top end - just drop oil, take clutch out as there are some cross the joint tabs to remove, remove sump and then you can remove the bottom case - maybe some bits i've forgotten! Could be the selector but more likely the gear dogs have rounded off and as they are paired with 5th they'll be usually worn as well! Gears ain't cheap but will be uprated 'M' parts which are undercut. The old gears can be saved by being undercut - best they all get done - makes them fairly bulletproof and positive selection!

4 spring clutch on models up to 'K'

Ah - I see - ok!

Or just swop the signal wires on the coils?

Well you haven't been the most active member for all your 'years' on the site! I think most are to polite to say its a crap idea - so I will ...... its a crap idea!

Stop misleading the masses then LOL! Finned blocks will certainly help but they don't half look weird when compared to a std GSXR block - need surface area which is in short supply unless you want it to look aircooled!

Yes - Warpspeed = 2nd to none machining but would you really want to run a dry block on the street? This is a streetbike (from the piccies?)

You may struggle to find a 'Gorilla' block to take liners that big - APE haven't made them for probably 10+ years. Plus without extra finnage on the block it'll run bloody hot as a streetbike! Personally i'd stick at 80mm turbo pistons and a nice punchy draw through BB turbo with EFI and single throttle body!

Nice but not really necessary. The std pump system can be pushed to 30psi which is ok for a plain bearing turbo and if you use a BB turbo you don't need increased pressure anyway. Dino's should have the turbo behind the cylinders then gravity drain is golden - problems sorted LOL! @ Reinhoud - seriously? They are so oldskool before oldskool was cool! Originally designed to pressurise aircraft cabins back un the 50/60's. They are seriously scarce in A1 condition now and spares are very limited, quite narrow and the lower oil pressure came from the single bearing core so they tend to 'wobble' a bit more. Unless you've got one - I wouldn't go looking for one.

This is a problem using a std ignition system with a radically different configuration of engine! The Blandit ign curve is designed to suit a 'low' comp engine so will probably be a bit retarded around idle and more advanced higher up to compensate. This sounds opposite to what you need! Adding the advancer may help low end but will smoke the engine at high rpm's IMO. So unless you swop out to a Dyna 2000i or similar where you can tailor a better ignition curve, you'll always have to suffer a compromise set-up!