clivegto

Any oil cooled adjuster will fit and work.

I'm running a ignitech on the the 1216cc turbo Harris just on the standard map with no issues. Been wondering if it's waisted on my setup to be honest.

He has another one made from chromonly steel tube as well, haven't got any pictures of that one though.

We like pictures hears a few more.

Brought the Magnum inside to give it a wipe over with an oily rag before I take it to Newark bike show at the weekend, it's replaced the Christmas tree

Yes I know the man that had it built as do a few others on hear, it's not quite finished yet

@Gsxrsammay be can help there.

Does look good but for me it just needs lifting a touch at the back

About 192mm

The Vf23 is a little bit bigger than the tdo4l but not much

0 busa rods are longer than B12.

I fitted one to the Turbo Tea Pot trimmed the back bolt as well as the case, it does miss the clutch push rod just

Bought a Zooma recently with a b12 mk2 motor fitted it came with 16/43 gearing which is way too high in my opinion. Going to fit 15/47 for next year. Should have said 16/43 is what I'm running on my turbo bike.

Yes I used 2nd hand busa mk1 pistons and conrods with a 2mm spacer on the bottom of the block. From memory the compression was just less than 10 to 1. Last one is making 260hp, 147 ft-lbs torque at 14 1/2 lb boost. Bad memory 8:1

Dropped some barrels and a cylinder head on for a look see at cylinder head to frame clearance, looks good to me

About 10mm to where it was, I haven't centered the back wheel properly yet. The Dymags are from a ZX10r which have a massive offset so hopefully it's not going to be much of a problem.

Made a couple of engine spacers up for the mounts to nip the engine up tight. Can't move the engine any more to the left even if I wanted to as the gear selector shaft is 1mm from touching the frame but all is well in my eyes where it is 9

1340cc fuel injection turbo is the plan

Don't think there is but I might be wrong.

Yes but you will have to trim the knuckle.

Took a few mm of the bottom crank case mount, the engine is just to say off centre to the left now but the lock-up clutch fits with a 10mm gap to the frame so should be able to get a case of some sort on as well time for a beer

Well I've discovered how thick the top crank case is while cleaning it up .

Had a play around with a B12 bottom end. Got a counter bore tool then removed quite a bit of material from the top left engine mount on the top crank case I'll brace it up later. This has allowed the engine to move further to the left without altering the frame. Need to take a couple of mm off the bottom one as well. Don't think this will allow me to fit a lock-up clutch but I will be able to get the cover off without removing the engine from the frame.

Cheers Dan, I'll ask Sean about heavy duty springs. Plan is to fit the 600 5 spring clutch to a B12 clutch, may be the busa springs will fit

So the bottom back engine mounts on the frame were only 10mm which had 1/2 snapped bolt in when I took the motor out. Drilled them out to 12mm and found a suitable bolt for it. Previous owne had cut the top right (in pic) engine mount down at an angle and had a penny washer in there as a spacer. I squared it up which gives me an extra hole 3mm movement to the left for the engine. Just for fun I tried the back Dymag for size in this swinging arm setup and it don't look to be a million miles away