Lachie04

I did have a hearty laugh but something like this

Measure crank journal diameter and possible to determine an age range

It's just a press fit and tightened with the bolt as per the manual

OK I have a 750 starter on a 1052 crank and clutch but I am using the 750 idler gear, and with a NRC cover. 1 tooth more hmm that may explain why I thought it was a bit sluggish but otherwise no particular issues, so sounds you'll need the idler gear also to go with the starter motor I was going to change the clutch over (the 750 one looks a bit lighter) as I counted both clutch sprockets and seem to remember they were the same tooth count 68 each but didn't have a puller

Thanks for the comments My concern was on the air locking side really and if it were to happen from time to time while oil would still flow it would be ineffective car guys have lots of comments about it Any who Merry crimbo

Hello Chaps, Debating a question in my mind So I have a head cooler mounted as such But to make room for headlight and brackets questioning if mounting it ∩dsᴉpǝ poʍu would work and give me more room. I used to have it on the back but trying to keep the tail clean now and not anywhere else which would work I'm concerned it would drain back to the case each time and then possibility of air blockage. While the main cooler can be mount, fittings down, don't think you can do it with these. Closest I've seen to upside down is the one @Dezza is building which is rather flatish. Any thoughts

Any help?? 1200s RED/White is from "meter" fuse, Orange Green is from "instrument" fuse this seems common to most models both will be switched power Black /yellow splices off from the coil ??

Racetech have a calculator for suspension changes and products available add variables into the calculate spring rates link https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Suzuki/GSX-R750/1990

That wouldn't be right I know the 1127 bearing is 19mm the gen 11 1200 should be 21,6mm according to the parts fiche

@HWBthere's no performance thing is a racing regulation to drain fuel float bowls and breather over hear. Which means a catch tank needs to be lower than the carbs to work and not a lot of space to do that

Hey @kiwisuzuki1100nzdid you ever come up with something for this Looking for some inspiration for fuel drain catch tank

This is how I did mine got it from here https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx Fits on a cd and I have a bit of plexus over the top to write on the cd hole is right size for the bolt

yes def 19mm. I have (had) "F" short stroke pistons bored to take 20mm pins to fit the long stroke rods.

Measuring header temp is a quick hack to see carbs are set up close. My dyno guy does it as a quick check prior to a dyno run. They should all be relatively close Can be used as a hack to adjust pilots also. I have a cheapo infra red to thermo to do quick checks Colder temp = richer Richer carb settings run better as engine temp increases Straight up Would seem # 4 is a bit richer or not as sync to the rest. Pilots are not always set the same so slight differences are normal. Ensure carbs are clean as and play close attention to syncing carbs first syncing at 1500 -1800 rpm Make sure all rubbers are intact including carb to airbox rubbers I once found one which was not sealing after regluing back in was fine I'd been trying to track down the cause for ages.

Trying to clean them was not working and pretty munted So hopefully got this sorted now and seem to work but will have to wait a while for a proper road test but seems good What I ended up doing was I aquired a after market set of fork bolts of fleabay from a certain heavey metal industries 1000 that suppose to use Showa 43 mm forks with almost the same set up but work slightly differently Found out 43mm showa forks seem to have changed thread sizes at some point so had to get the main bolt remachined made up a slug as the new one does have the same rebound adjustment screw type and slot it out for the oil to drain back to the fork Seems to work as it should here's hoping

TIP: there's a bolt hole at the back of the case an at recess at the front to fit a 5-6mm nut and bolt to help pry the cases apart. I don't think they tell you that in the manual (thanks to @fatblokeonbandit)

Have a read through this I have used it successfully and to good effect http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

@kiwisuzuki1100nzto be fair 10.13 only refers to oil and oil mists which takes into account the air box drain but since you don't have that maybe you could check with your clubs tech rep or rider rep to get a call on that. Most track days don't go to that depth of checks, my experience, is only comp events. I suspect that there are some local interpretations which is why MNZ clarified the classic's requirements for shark fins and engine catch tanks.

For nz you have to run anything that could leak to a small catch tank. Seen everything from coke cans up check the regs

Doesn't even look Suzuki

Recently measured the extension length of my cable push rod from the seal face and got 65.1 - 65.4mm since all covers are interchangable I would anticipate this is somewhere around what you need for the actuator to work within adjustable range.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/ I usually use this for cross reference

I have a spacer as per this pic I don't exactly know what it is but came with the wheel which was off a bit of a bitza if it's not there the bolts will hit the arm. Maybe the PO made it for the same sort of reason. Is it a six bolt or five bolt hub that might narrow it down?

No injuries all good was a bit of an awkward low speed highside. I have side stepped insurance before for the reasons above but just this one too much costs involved and damage to fairings etc relocation (it's 300Klm away and got towed 60klm) Was really wondering if insurance will baulk at the engine for some reason and if they do just replace the cover if there was anything of concern. Oh well see how it goes Cheers chaps

Thanx for the replies guys sounds like it should be ok then see what the company man does