Lachie04

If you were going to swap ends then you might as well go ahead and give it a clean you'll probably find the commutator looks like this Clean it up and if the bushes have still got some decent meat on them try it again The 4 pole motors can be a little ticky (read BITCH) to put back together You need to hold each brush back I have used tiny zip ties to do this then cut them off when you get the commutator back in the there But keep good pressure on it when sliding the case back on or the magnets will pull it out again what do you have to lose Also when taking it apart before you do mark the case and end caps to align up when it goes back together

The starter on top is a two pole motor and the bottom a 4 pole motor The inards wont swap Also might need to check the gear teeth, there are two different sizes when getting another starter to match what you have There a 9 tooth gear and I forget the other (maybe 13 Tooth- don't quote me on that)

If you stuff the head up use an angle grinder with cutting disc cut a slot and use flat head impact driver.. softly... worked for me Then replace them with Allen head screws

Yeah it's a bit of work to get it in there That's a gsxr600 arm but seen with a braced 750 arm also same need to move the bottom rail

Just for interest sake a working drawing of the mod if all else fails and you want to keep the forks like I did I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYONE ATTEMPTING TO TRY THIS

Had the same problem and impossible to get em apart and no part available. Ended modifying zzr1000 caps which worked well. I did post some pics here but can't find em yet. They need a bit of work and have to make a floating pin to meter the oil flow. Will try to find some pics or the post. Using these caps they are slightly larger thread so the cap threads need to be machined down also.

What about an inline fitting like

The only best place is to run it off the main oil gallery sure this had been covered before anyhow using a m16??? With npt adapter this is oil temp sensor

@Jpich85Where does it actually go doesn't seem to be on any engines post 88 it's too high to be a full width oil gallery sure it's not just a blanked off casting if it opens to the crankcase maybe part of a defunct oil return route and not pressurised like the gravity head oil return. be interested to see where it goes 88 750 case pic

I do like Quadlock I have both stem mount and bar mount would recommend the vibration damper also but CAUTION with their universal mount if your phone does not fit in one of their cases My experience is the DS tape they supply to attach the mount to back of phone whatever is not that durable and I did clean it super good before attaching. had been using for a couple of weeks when it decided not to be that sticky lucky found this before the ride Replaced it with some 3M heavy duty DS tape and all good

I use these which you can get from just about anywhere Cut it in half to get this Then crimp the wires together using these Then slide some heat sink over

My thoughts on gsxf handling is the frame is well capable but the rear swinger let's it down as it's too long and twisty it also has a tendency to understeer sort these out and it's fine

I've weighted a teapot frame against a 89 gsxr frame and they was only 6 kg difference frame and swinger having cut the rear subframe of mine and replaced it with a ally subframe (there's over 6 kg in the sub frame in itself) it now weighs less than a89 gsxr. There is little you could do to add extra bracing and the whole chassis is stiff enough I've raced a few bikes and the teapot is capable with anything I've ridden other than a race prepped duccatttiii and taken it against a 600 supersport my times on the track were comparable to mid field race times and qualify 2nd row on the grid in a hotly contested class while using standard Metzler roadtech street tires it never felt out of shape or pushed to hard while keeping up with the supersport race bike I obviously would need some work by modding all the original suspenders and it would slay a blandit frame alone in handling but then I am biased lol

Think the piston pins are different sizes also 18 on the 600 and 19 on the 750 ???? Have to check 600 has 4mm longer stroke so possibly a base plate needed Should be basically a big bore 600 If you can put a 750 head and barrel on a 600 theoretically it should fit centers etc head bolt sizes/lengths may be funny Valves are a little on the small side for the increase in capacity but if you can live with that shouldn't be much more work than putting a DOT head on a B12

All you need is the new oil pick up strainer I've done the swap. That tooling doesn't actually match up with anything and IIRC the gasket covers it see pic of corresponding gsxf bottom end Btw I've also gone the other way mk1 sump on mk11 engine same

Well with a lot of tweeks 1052 crank some small case mods lots of parts clutch change Goes on Probably the best thing for you is too salvage the gear box and sell it for someone wanting a six speed for their blandit

Ah according to the pics it is R712 is 89 750gsxf motor best drop in barrels you could go for is a 1052 and that would need some tweeks

Interesting question been meaning to ask something similar there is info around on what it does when changing up and down but real world experience would be good It takes a bit of mucking round to change so any difference would probably only show up on a Dyno and that would be more painful than carb tuning lol There's also duration and opening closing times to consider and different cams et Al Just for interest an engine I had built up by the only fella I would trust around these parts slotted the inlet to 104 but left the ex at 105 motor goes fine. My current motor came out at 106.2 In and I had to slot the ex to get down to 106 and feels good and has a good spread of power on the Dyno As @Oilyspanner said not far off OEM settings is usually the bump stop I think finding the duration cams open and close and the cross over is the more critical thing and effects flow and scavenging etc more complex than I know though Apart from slight up and down of both together finding the correct cross over duration and timing would be critical to get that 10th degree with In and Ex tuned separately, the straight combined 103 -106 change I don't think would be felt much. Any adults???

I have a 1052 built up motor with a DOT head just a little port reshaping to remove casting ridge in the intake some deshrouding 38 flatties @ 12.5 compression (after deshrouding) and on a break in run on the Dyno pulled 5-8hp less than a local well prepared 1127 race bike and was second in 5 gsxr motored bikes. Having two modified motors both with DOT heads they certainly make them free rev. The 1052 makes good power to around 10500 thou in this configuration but feels like it would rev itself to death if I let it. Personally I wouldn't go past the flatties no problem with mid-range and so so so much easier to get right

I got that bearing from Suzuki in June 2020 Maybe check with Suzuki dealer mine can tell me if available ex factory Delivery can take a while so depends on how urgent you need it though

Just to throw it out there I had trouble with my 750 F carbs and was convinced it was the choke. I found one of the boot rubbers into the airbox loose reglued it like the others with contact adhesive and sorted my running issues so when you check rubbers for leaks also check fitting into the airbox (not saying its the not running thing though)

No there is no hole it's just moulded that way only an indent

The bungs are there as the gsxf carbs have an additional flow path for fuel compared to gxsr carbs the bungs should be there. Not to sure to what effect they will affect the carbs though but limits the fuel uptake through the jet in favor of the additional fuel circuit that enters the jet half way up fromthe main jet side (like he said)