Lachie04

Yeah maybe, will see, second time might be a treat but I've parked it for the time and dry building the 5 speed swap in and seeing what other goodies need replacing.

Yeah, I have a shed full of boat anchors I don't really want another that was the idea to use all the bits I have now. I'll likely end up heli coiling it I should be able to get it pretty good using the drill press.

Yeah I'm still a bit skeptical about this but then thats me. I went to the local specialist hardware and they checked the thread and reckoned it was a m10X1.25 just the thread was slightly deformed which is why I can't get the die nut on it. I also emailed the guys at APE and they came back and said it was a M10x1.25 I think I read on their site somewhere the H Bus thread was a 3/8-20 and another site I found (Naughton) used a 3/8-20 which is supposed to be somewhat very similar to a M10 but otherwise metric everywhere else. So times out on that for a bit I'll revisit this when I finally get the new studs (I'm not paranoid, but who wants to know?,, LOL). I was hoping someone else would come back with any experiences with thread inserts or whatever but seems not ATM. When I was taking them out @7-8 came out with not too much trouble just using the double nut technique (back up two nuts on the nut end) of the rest I applied the wack it with a hammer technique and all but one dislodged with that. The bugger one I first tried heating the case but my gas torch wouldn't burn paint of a wall while it was good and hot to touch just not enough heat. I then tried heating the stud directly and after I got it reasonably hot quenched it with some penetrating oil (just for cooling effect) using the double nut it did tweak a bit so this was encouraging but I could not tighten it back to get the wiggle happening it actually bent also and I don't know if this was from heating and cooling it. And then next choice was to weld a nut directly on the stud with the MIG (maybe I should have used the TIG but I think the result would still be the same It started coming out and I tried going back and forth in-out like your supposed too but at about 2mm it Snapped again just closer I don't think it was the heat it sheared very quickly and evenly and didn't twist I was getting some hefty force on it. I was thinking at this stage I'd just be happy to strip all the threads and at least have it out, a friend offered me use of a stud extractor but I didn't take it up just for the reason of potentially just stripping the threads out. the welding technique gets the stud good and hot so does the same effect has using a torch on it. Now it's just too short do do anything else I know the last engine build we did my mechanic guy said it was a real effort to get the studs out but I wasn't there and don't know what he did to get them out. some are easy some are hard best of luck you get easy ones FML

If I reverse it the nut end in the case is definitely loose and wiggles but the case end is nice and tight I tried several and the same. Major thread diameters measure @ the same 9.84 -9.87 mm and lining them up together appear to be matched threads/pitch. I just can't see what the difference is but there is. It's like the case end thread is cut a bit looser Idk but it's all of them and not a one off odd one Does seem odd to me also which is why I was checking There's not much torque when putting the studs into the case but the head nuts are torqued up to 40nm so not really keen on tightening against a loose or non matching case thread, if recut to 1.25

Hi ya Ok someone has got to have done this before. I've snapped a cylinder stud (twice) and now is sitting too close to the case to get a hold of. I am guessing all the cylinder stud thread dimensions are the same as I'm replacing the 750 short stroke stud to fit a 1052 barrel. Looks like I'm going to have to drill the bugger out and maybe fit thread insert The nut end is a M10 x 1.25 but the case end thread isn't although it looks very close My 10 x1.25 tap doesn't run down and die doesn't run on the case end threads 1.50 is definitely out Is it a M10 x 1.0 ???? (seems rather fine) or is it an M10 at all ??? Anyone

uhm I would have said the cutter style fitting grips the steel braid via a thread in the nut I don't think it would grip nylon to the same extent

cheers just checking there wasn't any tricks in putting them on Thanks

Hi Just received some Dyna mini coils to replace the green ones already on the bike. I think the green coils are doing the get hot and stutter thing. Dough! the things you read after getting stuff Anyway, they come with special connectors straight and angled and they snap on but then when in the groove are quite loose Was wondering if this is right as doesn't seem to be a nice connection perhaps the boots that come with them hold them tight ???? Anyone had any experience with this?

http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/1546/oilcooled-camshafts-specs

when I rebuilt my motor we measured the Dot head volume at 22.5 ml that was standard not deshrouded I always worry about giving people info like that though and usually give advice to check it your self as I cant guarantee the result

Ok no firm opinion here but I asked this on another thread once "Question I've been meaning to ask would you not have to machine out the squish band to match the new cylinder diameter? I would think the sharp edge would create a hot spot in the chamber" And I got the reply The squish isn't any different to an 1100 head, the chamber is shallower though which raises the compression ratio. The edge of the squish band is the only place in a combustion chamber you want a sharp edge, the turbulence it creates mixes the air fuel better and reduces the size of the fuel droplets, this creates a faster burn reducing the likely hood of detonation.

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don't know about the stem I have seen a guy cut and shorten one but you might get an idea on bearings here https://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion

Just for giggles not saying either way but this is a 1127 gasket on a 1052 barrel NOte there my be a hole required between 3&4 IDK but the 750K one has a hole there A 750K gasket on the 1052 barrel And the 750 laid over the 1127 the 1127 just has a slightly large diameter skirt hole

I've used a complete 1100M gasket set on a 750 the base gasket was the same. Check the part numbers on a parts web site and they were the same well apart from the head gasket and starter clutch

I have a 816 short longstroke motor have only done about 800k on it so far and taking it somewhat easy as was all blueprinted and just run back in for road use. was not a lot of work you have to bore the small end out to 19mm make or buy a spacing plate we used 5mm 6061 swap the cam sprockets over for the hyvo chain (we took a link out) I don't know if you'd get 130 a guy in the states reckoned he got 128 doesn't feel like it to me but nice and torquey I have a custom built 421 the curve is nice and smooth exhaust cam at 106 inlt 104 and still pulling hard at 1150 rpm very happy with motor in about a month I'm going to through it on the dyno will be interested to see what it turns note this uses the longstroke case and gearbox ss the main bearings are smaller bigger (cant remember)than the short stroke motor so not able to swap crank in

APE welded and reground?? could give them a try

Yes I don't have a bandit but the question was just were is an easy place to put it, so 2 cents (P). Yep, I have a center line sump with very close fitted 4-2-1 and we have some high speed humps around and have grounded it out several times if I havent taken them sideways When I looked at sump pug fittings the ones I saw stuck out some and looked prone to be hit by just about anything. I thought about welding in a fitting but dead easy just stick it were i did. Sorted and works quite well BTW 24dgrs today and a trip around the hills 95 -100 depending on wrist

I fitted one to the main oil gallery, couldn't bear the thought of hitting a speed bump and tearing one out of the sump plug. Seems reasonably accurate but only use it for a guide as I don't not how much heat it's picking up from the cases but on a 18-20 dgr day is 70-80 and rises to @ 90-95 on the gas M16 to 1/8NPT thread for sensor

Sorted Don't know why Dyna signal is cutting out at 7000 every thing is working fine apart from that Anyhow I wired up a spare tacho to the " - " output from the 1-4 coil and it didn't blow up anything so permanently wired the input wire to the tacho to the coil and works ok

it seems like the signal cuts out from the dyna so I might check with them about that l was thinking maybe could get the signal from the - side of the coil its a oem tacho which normally gets signal from the ECU has anyone ever connected the oem tacho in this manner would it work?

Hello Chaps, I have just fitted a dyna 2000 to my 7fiddy K engine (yeah I know there's probably better ignition systems) however as the title says Have the dual picks dyna 3hm green coils and taylor leads all seems to run very well, the rev limiter is set to 11500 and connected the yellow wire to the tac input (First I somehow though it was the green following the instructions but that was reading double so changed over to the yellow) Anyhow when it hits 7000 the tacho cuts out, Has anyone experienced this as I am a bit stumped on what it could be as everything is working well apart from that

I was close the handle bar plate which sits on the top yoke is 25mm high so 760 to top of top yoke

I will dig out the bars tomorrow they are buried in a box out in the shed and measure how thick they are