Lachie04

Exactly happen to me also and sourced the same from @FBOB post excellent I bought a 5 pack and had them delivered (NZ) within a week. Actually I snapped the original and one of the replacements of the buggers even using big gobs of red rubber grease and being ubber careful the bottom of the o ring would just pop out and get snapped off. Ended up looping a zip tie under it to keep the o ring compressed while I slide the alternator in

The studs are sized to the height of the barrel the OEM studs are fixed in with the long thread into the case. Also the new studs I have are coated with a green thread lock on the long thread like the brake rotor bolts have. while they probably will fit upside down I would doubt very much I would do that

Yep I remember reading about something like that thanks for the info good advice I'm just using new OEM studs so should be fine

Postscript, Gave up and took it to the performance motor shop. Yep I don't feel so useless they tried it all to and couldn't budge it so after some long time on the mill Milled and helicoiled While at it another little mod out the back to save some weight........... kidding will probably take a leaf out of FBOB and do the valve cover also. Tapered thread little bit of sealant and nip it up sorted

Yeah nah I don't think that would happen. I don't even know if he's back at work after spending 2-3 months in Hospital after being rear ended on the track. Your much better off sourcing this locally and or checking with orient express racing they came back to me quickly when I inquired about their spacer plates just takes them about a week to have them made up. Or APE on the link before Otherwise there maybe someone else on here who has done a stroker engine could give you some suggestions

And valve cover

RF 900 rods little and big ends are the same as the short stroke rods 19 and 36mm The spacer plate should theoretically be half the increase in stroke (@5.8mm from memory) assemble the motor without base gaskets and check piston to deck height this will be the size of the spacer plate/s/gaskets needed. My mechanic did a top job milling a spacer plate out of 6mm 6061 Al and was set up with zero deck height and no base gaskets. Cometic (I've heard) and Orient express (I asked them they make them to order) also do spacer plates can check by contacting them

@clivegtoOf course sensational I wasn't reading that right

They would be nice but for the price is a little out of my budget

BTW no need to say make sure you dial cams in Mine came out with lobe centers at 108 inlet and 105 exhaust The inlet got slotted back to 104 and exhaust stayed at 105

Sounds interesting I presume you'll be expecting it to spin up faster I've been contemplating running mine with no starter clutch to reduce the parasitic drag (going to be a race motor anyway) I guess you'll be running into this also with the short stroke case I had heard about having to skim the rib This pic shows the 1052 rod end moving away from the short stroke case oil gallery. With the cyl. block just sitting here is very close, with it torqued down potentially will hit. I haven't measured the actual clearance and don't know it would be of any benefit anyway. Like others, for the sake of it, I will probably grind about 2mm out. In looking at it there seems to be about 5mm of "meat" above the actual oil gallery passage I'd be interested to see what the old 1052 case looks like in this area did they change the oil passage routing???

The B6 and the longstroke have the same little end diameters the short stroke is 1mm bigger I think frankestiens guide says 20mm but actually 19mm I dont know of any compatible rods I've seen a thread were the guy did it with the B6 cases/bottom end

RS38's. I'll probably switch back to the BST36's and put the Flatslides on the 1052 I'm rebuilding so will be interesting to see how the 36 CV's differ, but that's a while off yet. Potentially the RS38's could be a little big for this motor.

yeah you can go find all the bits to overbore the longstroke but then it wouldn't be a "Hybrid" I think the general ethos of hybrid is bolting something together which is generally within the stress tolerances of the OME motor

After 6hr over 2 days on a dyno Yep The only reason I ended up going down this route was I needed to rebuild the motor anyway as at 110k the gearbox was seeing the end of it's life and somewhere along the bike rebuild I ended up with a good 99 Teapot motor so thought why not for a little extra work and it saved a complete gearbox renewal. I was going for a daily rider that hopefully doesn't need another full rebuild for another 50 - 100 k IF your going for bang for buck then add all the big power stuff I have a 4-2-1 exhaust (with 1-4 & 2-3 paired) potentially a good quality 4-1 would increase the top end a bit but drop the midrange.

Drilling the slides has little to do with the jetting The volume of air flowing through the carb is governed by the buttery fly When you open the throttle the velocity of the air increases as the air flows over the holes in the slide it draws air out of the diaphragm by the venturi effect. This causes the slide to lift The drilling of the holes is supposedly to allow the air to be removed from the diaphragm quicker thus increasing the speed the slide lifts and theoretically quicker acceleration. IDK it may also effect the height the slide sits at constant throttle equilibrium Another way I have heard to get the slide to lift quicker is to cut a couple of turns off the spring so there is less force on the slide but this can cause issues of the slide not dropping either quick enough or insufficient force to close the slide

Yep I've built one I used a GXF bottom end and a dot head barrel. Primarily just cause I could as had the parts around I have set it up pretty standard (meaning no real high performance options) for roadability and a general daily rider done around 4000 k atm and loving it really trackable But has performed well on the track only losing the liter bikes down the straight. Bearing in mind the result is only 60 odd cc's there's no real power advantage in standard trim like mine and pulls @ 100hp at the rearwheel and max torque comes in at @ 8000 the advantage is how it is setup to bring on the torque but if your going after power there's other options higher lift cams and stuff to suit. The only hard thing is to bore out the rod little ends an extra 1mm in diameter for me this resulted in only a 0.3mm reduction in meat on the end A spacer plate can be made or bought from here (see bottom of page) http://gsxrzone.com/cranks.html but they make them to order. and changing over the cam sprokets to suit the Hyvo Chain and using the long stroke chain slippers mine ended up with taking a link out of the cam chain also but I hadn't heard of that before in other builds This is an earlier run and going a little better after some more jetting changes

I would not suspect so, I've done the mineral oil run in change to synth but never had any clutch problems with it. Don't have any experience with upside down coolers on this motor but by other accounts on here shouldn't be an issue the plates will be oiled at any time anyway. What oil are you using does it have any additives in it? I only use Penrite oil but that's my preference but would only ever use motorcycle formulated oils. Are you sure the push rod is fully disengaging and not sticking? Don't know that brand of plate, were they replaced before you ran it in? Maybe someone else has experience with them

+1 4200 rpm at 70mph lucky! my teapot gearbox is doing 5500 engine rpm at that speed 21-23 750 23-21 bandit Looks like you'd be spinning faster

I have RS38s on my dot head with standard dot head rubbers they were a bit old and hard so hot air gun and some red rubber grease they now slip on and off with reasonable esse

520 - 525 chains have a smaller diameter pin and smaller pin width plate thicknesses vary but not by much (0.5mm at the most if you get a high performance chain). Thinner sprocket thinner chain usually gives about 1-2mm additional clearance to the tyre not so much the hub and clearance to the frame. A 4.5 in wheel has 102mm from CL to back of the sprocket A 5.5in wheel has 108mm Cl to sprocket inner face so assuming the wheel is on the center line of the bike you have just lost @ 6mm clearance to the frame

ha ha going other way building a 1052 out of a 750 case this is a five speed in the 750 case the output shaft bearing is 19mm compared to the 750 17mm but slots straight in second photo with the 750 driven shaft laid over with the same dimension shaft for the clutch Both have push rod through the driven shaft the five speed is from a gsxf1100 @1998 I had thought about keeping the 6 speed talking to my dyno guy he has a mate using 6 speeds on an 1100 and has gone through 3 boxes so far recons only good fir up to @ 140 hp problem solved for me when opened case very bad worn doggies so 5 speed it is But other wise choose the right parts and easy peasy oops BTW that's a gsxf 750 gear shaft

I had a TLS master which was 14mm and swapped it out for a TLR which is 5/8 both remote reservoir. TLS was 4 pot. TLR was six pot calipers When I went to twin braided lines did feel right and going to the 5/8 was the trick BUt they are tokico calipers at least Ok just checked both the 14 and the 5/8 have nissin embosed on them

I've used this site to track down some info don't know if it has frame numbers and such https://sites.google.com/site/suzukitechnical/suzuki/sacs-enginecodes and http://www.suzukicycles.org/_misc/identification.shtml

Don't know if this idea is any use to you might be a bit too much work , depends on how desperate you are I got some of these off the bay 38MM 1.5" OD Sanitary Weld on Ferrule FitsTri Clamp 1.5" Stainless Steel 304 S3 Then had a mate turn out/rebate the inside to the size I needed added welded additional material to the outside where it fits against the exhaust gasket To use the original flanges. Enlarged the flange to 38mm also Then welded the pipe in