no class

..... you will need either a dot head or skim the std head to bring up the comp ratio .... but even that will just get you in the 9’s .

busa rods are stronger than std gsf/ gsxr rods.... usualy a choice made by the builder when a turbo or n20 is on the menu . dropping the pistons on the std rods will net you low 8’s on the comp figures.... not really a performance upgrade if going NA ....

the wrist pin to top of piston dimensions vary when comparing the busa to the oil cooled 1127/1157 pistons...... the recessed dish on the busa piston adds to the lower comp ratio . the oil cooled 1127/1157 rods are 117mm and the busa 119.5 .....all share the same big and small ends at 41/20 . As Clive stated above , best to dry build and check your measurements.... so even when you achieve “0” deck height and proper .035-.040 squish with the busa combo .... the comp ratio will still be somewhat low compared to the 1127 and slightly lower comp 1157 .

surely they can be easily made ....

you must have that "new style" gravity defying set-up ......

it’s a simple bearing swap..... no need to swap the stem . All balls racing has a fork swap guide.... just put in your make/ model/ year of your bike .....just order the bearings for your k8 forks .... done.

I used 2 of these back when I had my slingy drawthrough.....1 for the retard activation and the other for the water/meth injection..... as they were adjustable , it was easy to set the pressure using a air compressor set at the desired presure.... wired in a 12v power supply and light.....adjust the screw until the light came on and when all was set..... installed on the bike ..... worked out great .

.... for the front end swap you can use the “ all balls racing” website fork swap guide.....

choke side cover...... what’s the 2 switches for ?

Another quality build to watch ....

how wide is the frame at the pivot ? looks fairly wide

here you go ..... I think there is a wrist pin to top of piston difference from gen1 to gen2 ...... the gen2 crank was stroked as you may allready know .

Carl Salter ....free manual downloads

lets all just pat ourselves on the back and pretend we know what we are doing

..... I removed the stamped steel plate in the headstock area as it is hollow and in some way will flex more than welding the gusset tubes directly to the upper frame tube . I personally prefer tubing over flat plate for any gussets where frame stiffening is required .... as tube is more rigid than a flat plate .

quick Q on the 1100 and 750 air cooled exhaust.....are header collectors interchangeable? or is there a hight issue from the ports to the oil pan dimension ?

I am looking for one of those ....hell yes ! details please

U code is indeed a 1052cc

date code is the small circle casting .... located near the spokes on the seam .... or on the rim edge .

.... all depends on how big her tits are

outside diameter of the tube at the pivot area is 42 mm .....

....pistons on the rods , 4 wood shims to keep the 4 pistons level ,ring compressor , lightly oil , place cylinder block on the pistons , gently tap the block until all 4 pistons have cleared the rings .....

thanx SiBag..... confirmed match to mk2 B12

welcome .... that is a real clean gs.... almost a shame to alter ..... but I ain’t no purist so by all means get the angle grinder out ....