no class

...... if your inflatable doll has sprung a leak ....you could always ask your mammy to fix you up

have you read the fucking rules ? stick around a bit ... share some sarcastic humor.... and once you gaet 50 posts of meaningful content .... you can skip over to the wanted section and have a go

.....if you are changing the seats for larger valves , the reputable machine shop will measure beforehand and set all dimensions accordingly ..... perhaps you could specify what your plans are ?

direct swap for the heads..... cam sprockets are different but will fit either cam as well . the m/n heads will have larger intake rubbers , shim style rockers and specific model cams .

knowing the compressed thickness of the head gasket you choose will aid in determining squish..... as well as adjusting piston to deck height.... ......cometic mls can be peeled like an onion .... you can also run no base gasket .....or deck the block ......these are ways to adjust squish .

....?????????...... you got a perfectly fine efe sat up against the wall waiting to be reborn and you want to mess about with that 750 ? am I missing something here ?

hey Viz....is that Pikey ?

...at least your carbs are clean

you can achieve roughly 11:1 with a .060” skim .

as far as the super exotic and pricey TMR’s go.......the FCR’s out-performed them in the slingy track bike post .

...,. he is sliding the clutch out while holding the brake .

did you drill any holes in the airbox cover ?

all I hear is the sound of the carbs with the sound resonating in the airbox .

the OP

I guess he did’nt get the proper “ego” stroking he was looking for......

the rs are ok.... but they lack the smooth operation like fcr’s .

I think the bike was originally bought by the same type of people who only “ get off “ on the ooohhh factor of telling a story ..... so it will never be ridden .... only gazed upon by other “ ooohhh , aaaahhh” types who always seem to put a value on things .

judging by the rust on that part ... your fuel tank probably has rust in it as well ..... it does not take much to block the small orifices in a carburator . Clean and acid etch that tank ..,, tank liner treatment for starters . remove all the rust off that sender . Disassemble the carbs completely .... remove all the mixture screws and tiny o-rings ..... thoughrouly clean the bodies ( ultrasonicly) or if you can’t do that ..... a good quality carb cleaner ( wurth ) in a spray can .... compressor with a good air blower to clear the passageways . that bike has stock pipes so no need for dumb pods .... keep the airbox .... put the proper stock jets back in .... needles in stock position etc etc ... install your new carb kit and use a fuel filter before the carb inlet ( clear one so you can see the crap ) . new plugs ..... dump that fuel fouled oil .... new filter and oil .....the rest is shal we say..... facile a faire calise !

my old kat 1052 motor had gsxr1127 pistons and cylinder block..no base gasket ...... cases bored to accept the larger sleeve diameter ...which will make it 1109 cc....1127 head skimmed @.060” .... do not remember the exact valve to piston clearances .... intake cam was advanced 2 degrees ( which improved the low end torque ) the comp ratio was ... if I recall correctly ...in the 11:7 -1 zone . this motor was quite stout back in the day . As Clive mentioned .... measure your particular set up .... do your calculations ..... and as far as skimming .060” off a stock head , it works .

you could just skim .060 off your 1127 head and get basically the same results .

Whoooo are you...who , who, who , who

I prefer to design and fabricate the header so the turbo sits as high as possible and the drain remains above the sump level ..... never had any smoke issues .

...correction....Partzilla.com

welcome ....your options are limited due to the shit cdn dollar.......I have had good results through Partzilla.ca