Upshotknothole

As they said, really rare for a coil to only half die. You can try swapping the leads from the coil between the two plugs, see if the non running cylinder moves or not. Could be a bad lead if it does move. They get pretty hard and brittle with time.

That person hasn't been on this forum in over a year.

No benefit at all to polishing the insides of the carbs, if anything you might lose a little bit of power. If there were cheap hp to be gained there, everyone would be doing it. If you're tight on money for this build, I'd just stick with those unless something better comes along for a really good price. Save the money and get the bike properly tuned.

CVs can't be bored out. The throttle actuates a butterfly valve. You'd either need the butterflies out of larger carbs or to make up some custom ones, and even then, you'd still have to deal with the jet placements in the bore. BST38s out of the late gen 750s are good carbs, but the extra circuit on the sides of them is only useful if you're running an airbox. I think you're talking about drilling out the slides that are part of the diaphragm, that's standard with dynojet jet kits. Just part of the tuning process, doesn't really do much to otherwise stock carbs. Don't bother polishing the carbs either, you need a little turbulence to help the fuel mix with the air. What carbs do you have right now? What's your goal? Honestly by the time you do a full rebuild on a beat up old set of carbs, buy the jet kit, and new K&N filters, you're a good chunk of the way to a set of flat slides. Also double check that you can actually get the intake boots for the carbs you want. That sticky in this section on carbs and intakes has some huge mistakes regarding what fits and what doesn't.

Not by much. My 7/11 wheel base is maybe 20mm longer than a mid 00s GSXR 750. Busa swing arms are longer and easy enough to extend, but weren't really ever known for being light. I think the 1100w swing arms are longer too, but I don't really know much about the Ws other than the bits I've pulled off to mount to slingshots.

That clutch looks knackered. I'll help you out and send you a nice condition 750 clutch that even has a proper cover to keep the dirt out, you can send me that one back in exchange. I'll even pay shipping. Cheers!

Unfortunately K series swing arms aren't just bolt on affairs. Usually either the top shock mount needs to be altered or where the bottom linkage mounts to the frame needs to be moved. The swing arm itself should fit, but the pivot spindle size will be different. Easy bolt on setup is the braced 750w swing arm if you can find one, but they're the same length as the stock 750 swing arm, and will give a pretty short wheel base. Really all depends on how much work you want to do. W wheels will swap right in to your current setup and drop some weight. I've got a K4 1K swing arm in my 7/11, but it required a new top shock mount to be fabricated up. Someone on here was doing brackets that bolt on to the bottom of some of the slingshot frames that allow busa and some other early K swing arms to mount up, but I can't remember which frames they work with. I want to say they worked with the frames that came stock with dual exhausts, but don't quote me on that. Worth searching around for and anything can be made to fit with enough time and money.

They'll be close enough that you should be able to ride it to get it properly tuned, but they come with just a standard generic setup. They also tend to be a lot easier to work on than CVs, at least I think they are.

It's never really felt low, I've always chalked it up to the dyno reading low or maybe just conditions on that day. Has a nice torque curve and plenty of power up top.

Mid 00s R6 are supposed to work, one of these days I'll finish that swap and know for sure.

My stock 1100m engine with RS38s and a full akra did about 120 on the dyno years ago. That engine is begging to have some work done to it.

Stock 1100m head on an otherwise stock bandit 1200 engine? Bandit carbs or GSXR carbs? My guess would be maybe 120 - 130 HP with a good exhaust and good jetting.

Converting the shim head to a tappet is a lot of work. Technically it can be done, but I think parts of the head have to be machined, and most people just don't bother. Where the power ends up depends a lot on what size carbs you go with. Bandit carbs will keep lots of mid range torque, even with the dot head. Stick on some BST38 or 40 carbs and you'll move the power higher up in the revs. I run a stock 1100m engine with RS38 carbs and it has enough mid range to get around town, but it's boring. Really likes to be high up in the revs now in the twisties to have fun with it, or riding like an ass in town. Smaller carbs would make it way more friendly to normal street riding. If you have everything apart already, you could do a dry build with the dot head and the 1100m head and check for interference with the carbs and the petcock/tank.

Yeah, they just had the best porting from the factory. Decent cams, but I think the dot head cams were probably a little better.

Use the dot head for now. If you ever replace the pistons and bore it out, stick the 92 shim head on it. The 1100 head will work with the higher compression pistons and it's supposed to be the best flowing of all the heads, you just give up aftermarket cams. Or you can use the stock bandit head, get it ported, and use aftermarket cams. Really depends on how much money you want to spend. The dot head is the cheapest and easiest upgrade if you've already got it.

Pretty sure you can get a 6" wheel in there, but you'll have chain line clearance issues. The W wheel is a good upgrade over the stock sling shot wheel just with the weight savings. Newer wheels will drop even more weight, but all of the newer GSXRs use much larger axles that you'll need to make spacers for to fit on the old skinny axles.

I can try and go out to my garage later and take some more photos of how mine is set up. I'll also measure my shock, as it's a Penske and I've always assumed it was for a K4, but who knows.

First gen 750Fs were short stroke 748cc engines as well, but the cams were pretty mild compared to the GSXR cams. Teapot refers to 600 and 750 Fs, the 1100s are "power screens." "Dot" heads actually have dots cast in the fins on either side of the head, makes them easy to spot. I had a threat not too long ago asking similar questions regarding what's needed to do the swap. Shouldn't be more than a few pages back if you look. Essentially it's a quick and easy way to wake up a bandit engine. You have to use the bandit cam sprockets on the dot cams, new head gasket and O-rings. I've heard different compression ratios, 10.5:1 up to 12.5:1. It will move the carbs higher up than any other head, so expect issues with the fuel tap, especially if it's a 7/11 or similar. The stock intake rubbers on the dot heads are the best for fitting Mikuni RS carbs, and Suzuki has discontinued them, so join the rest of us in trying to find replacements. All the benefits of the head swap disappear if you start doing any real engine work to the bandit. If you do a 1216 kit or any head work, better off with the stock head and swap the dot cams, or GSXR 1100(tappet heads only, no shim heads) cams or power screen cams. What bike are you doing this to? We like photos here. Hope that helps, and definitely search the forums. They've been talked about a lot in here and the occasional build thread.

I checked on mine and it is using the stock K4 dog bones.

This right here. My first GSXR was a former race bike and all it had was a dummy plug for the ignition. If any fuses pop, you have a short somewhere else in the harness.

Those aftermarket ignitions tend to be garbage. If you still have the original broken key and ignition, a good locksmith should be able to make you a new key.

Nope, SRAD forks have totally different spacing and offset.

The ignition controls the running lights, the "brown wire." Something is wired up incorrectly or you have a short in the connection. There's only 4 wires, and they're all color coded.

Have you tried removing the top from the fork? Strip it down as much as you can and let it sit in some penetrating oil? Maybe toss it in the freezer over night?

Considering how many parts Suzuki has discontinued over the past few years, I'm just amazed that they still sell them. You could also swap the top off of a shagged fork as well if you happen to have access to one.