Upshotknothole

Clean it up and organize it as best as you can, at least on the Ws all the coolant lines make it hard to see how much crap you have shoved under the tank.

But it seals if you manually push the float closed? I was thinking maybe a leak around the valve seat, but that wouldn’t explain it not leaking when manually closed. Everything lines up ok? Nothing binding on that carb when everything is assembled? How bad of shape is the spare set?

What they said. Try swapping the bowls between carbs 3 and 4?

As previously stated, you could ditch the coils and switch it to coil on plug, that'll remove 4 cables. If possible, see if you can route as many of the vent lines together to a single catch can or breather filter. They make cheap K&N style knock off filters that you can get online that are smaller than that foam filter you have on there now. Vent lines coming off the carbs can be ran towards the rear of the bike or behind the engine to get them out of the way too. But I've never seen any W or old 400 that wasn't just an absolute rats nest under the tank with all the plumbing. They did do a good job of hiding all that crap.

Found it, and yup, cheaper. Thanks!

Gonna order up a couple lengths of this as well.

I've had the quick disconnects as OEM parts on injected bikes, quite handy for removing the tank. Might go that route eventually, but one is a 7/11 with no clearance between the carbs and the tank, and the other is a stock 750 and the fairings make it hard to access under the tank. Just need to figure out a way to route the lines so I can access the quick disconnects easily. I think I'll order up some 8mm ID transparent Tygon line. I like a little flash of colour here and there on the bikes.

If you can, use an 1127 CDI, or even a bandit one. That 750F CDI will have a higher red line that's not good for the 1127 cranks. No reason to keep the TPS either. The later Fs and bandits had so much extra crap on them for emissions, best to ditch all that crap for the sake of simplicity. With an older CDI, you can start with a base diagram more like this one that posted previously.

Always wished we got the 1400s in the states. They're not old enough to import yet as a grey market bike, and after shipping, a bare engine isn't worth the $2K it would cost to get one from the UK or Japan.

I'd appreciate that, thanks.

Out of town right now and looking at photos of my bikes and thinking about all the crap that I need to do on them. On the slingshots, what size were the stock fuel lines? I've got three bikes that I need to either refresh or setup, so might as well buy it all at once. I seem to remember them all using the same size, but this is what I'm working with. 750N has stock BST38s and petcock, the other two have RS38s and Pingel/stock petcocks. I also want to get more creative with my fuel line routing this time. I'm sick of scraping up my knuckles while trying to hold the tank up with one hand and get pliers in there with the other to remove the clips at the petcock.

I guess I do have a photo of mine. God I hate all the extra crap that comes with running the fairings. My valve cover filter was modified to take the two other vent lines as well as the main one. I'd forgotten that went in there as well. Also need to swap the petcock and get rid of that T fitting in my fuel lines. This is a 750M/N

That makes more sense. Though I'd still probably be cheap about it and reuse the oil if I just had the pan off.

In addition to the two fuel lines going to the carbs, there's that large open vent line that normally goes to the air box, that can get a length of hose and a small breather filter. Then there are two smaller vent lines that come out just above the fuel lines and those go to a smaller filter that sits on top of the valve cover. Vacuum line should come off the #4 intake boot if you still have a stock petcock. But once again, either consider fitting an air box with these carbs, trade them for some BST 38s, or get some flat slides.

Post up how it goes, I never knew you could install them backwards with as tight as the clearance is to the sump.

Depends on the year. M and N 1100/750 came off the #4 intake.

Save your time and money and get some flat slides for it. Way easier to tune without the airbox. Shouldn't be too hard to sell those 40mm carbs. Those carbs don't like not having an air box, and none of the BST carbs like those individual pod filters. Either some BST38s off a 750 or RS36/RS38 carbs.

I run a standard R6 battery in my 7/11, because it has an R6 tail and it fits, and never had a problem with it.

I always thought the main difference was the first year S was an unrestricted engine, after that the S and the R both got mildly restricted along with the busa and all the liter bikes. Rs might have hotter cams as well, but not sure.

I've got a polished sump on an 1100 engine and I'm not sure anyone else ever notices it other than me. Currently in the process of cleaning it again while the engine is out of the bike. I do love the way it looks, but it's so much maintenance, especially if the bike sees lots of rain.

Raw aluminum will oxidize, really depends on the conditions it's exposed to. You don't ever really see them left in bare aluminum though, because the black/dark grey paint helps them transfer heat better. Also if they do start to oxidize, it's going to be a bitch to clean it off between the fins. At most people might polish the edges of the fins, but leave the majority of the cylinder painted. Have you read through the custom build threads? These are old engines, pretty much everything that can easily be done to them has been. Also check out the vault for lots of good info on what can and can't be done with them.

As they said, really rare for a coil to only half die. You can try swapping the leads from the coil between the two plugs, see if the non running cylinder moves or not. Could be a bad lead if it does move. They get pretty hard and brittle with time.

That person hasn't been on this forum in over a year.

No benefit at all to polishing the insides of the carbs, if anything you might lose a little bit of power. If there were cheap hp to be gained there, everyone would be doing it. If you're tight on money for this build, I'd just stick with those unless something better comes along for a really good price. Save the money and get the bike properly tuned.

CVs can't be bored out. The throttle actuates a butterfly valve. You'd either need the butterflies out of larger carbs or to make up some custom ones, and even then, you'd still have to deal with the jet placements in the bore. BST38s out of the late gen 750s are good carbs, but the extra circuit on the sides of them is only useful if you're running an airbox. I think you're talking about drilling out the slides that are part of the diaphragm, that's standard with dynojet jet kits. Just part of the tuning process, doesn't really do much to otherwise stock carbs. Don't bother polishing the carbs either, you need a little turbulence to help the fuel mix with the air. What carbs do you have right now? What's your goal? Honestly by the time you do a full rebuild on a beat up old set of carbs, buy the jet kit, and new K&N filters, you're a good chunk of the way to a set of flat slides. Also double check that you can actually get the intake boots for the carbs you want. That sticky in this section on carbs and intakes has some huge mistakes regarding what fits and what doesn't.