Upshotknothole

This one is nicer than the one I have. I didn't realize I couldn't get the oil pan off with the engine in the stand until I tried and managed to spill a lot of oil in the process. https://www.Eblag.com/itm/115906460374?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MzXxeLmnSEy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Folks have posted up the measurements for engine stands on here in the past. They also pop up on Eblag, but mostly in the UK. Don't think I've ever seen any on there that have been here in the states. Good luck on the rebuild, can you tell where the oil is coming out?

It's a shitty photo, but you should be able to figure it out from this. The pilot air jet is on the front intake of the carb, it's the right one of the two air jets there.

Any oil cooled engine will bolt right in. I think the compression should be up around 150, but that's just a guess off the top of my head. Check the archives, plenty of info in there on engine swaps.

The last time I contacted Dynojet for replacement emulsion tubes, they wanted me to pull my tubes out of the carbs and take photos for them. I know the tubes are worn, I already had to lower the needles to help with the bogging in the mid range. And I'm not pulling the carbs off a running bike that I ride all the time to take photos for them. Just found a set of Mikuni emulsion tubes on Eblag for $40 shipped, looks like I'll be going back to a Factory Pro kit. Eventually this 750 will get flat slides and I won't have to deal with this crap as much anymore.

I always check the needles first, mainly because I can usually get them out without remove the carbs from the bike. Also if the needles are knackered, the tubes are most likely gonna have some wear as well.

Certain carbs are worse than others for destroying the emulsion tubes. BST38s on the last of the slingshot 750s were notorious for it. I've also seen my share of destroyed needles, especially the aluminum ones. Someone on here used to sell metal replacements for those plastic wedges, and I think they were for the BST36 carbs.

Lowering the needles a notch is also a band aid fix for oval emulsion tubes.

Should be stock. Dynojet used the stock emulsion tubes in their bandit kits.

Probably an old DJ needle then, as they're the only ones that don't use stock Mikuni emulsion tubes.

I think DJ just doesn't bother listing that part number here in the states to avoid confusing people, as we only got BST36s from 89-92. The last time i emailed DJ earlier this year they told me their needles are Ti. The DJ set that I have in my 750 with the stock BST38 carbs are also Ti. Either that second needle in the photo is a really old one that wasn't Ti or it's not a DJ needle. Could be an old Factory Pro needle as they sell kits with both Ti and Al.

Those look like DJ needles, they should be titanium. Not sure if DJ ever did a kit for the 40mm carbs, since we didn't get them in the states. Factory Pro I think made jet kits for them if you should ever decide to use them.

The little rubber things that the bulbs fit into and push into the back of the idiot lights?

Follow the instructions that came with the factory pro kit. With only an exhaust on the bike, their stage 1 kit should be pretty close.

Someone on facebook was making them, don't know their name on there or if they're still making them.

I feel like if the urban legends about the shim heads spitting shims were true, all of the shim head 750s would have blown up years ago.

Tried tapping it with a mallet when it’s fully assembled and leaking? When all else fails, hit it with a hammer, and sometimes that will knock the float loose if it’s hung up on something.

Clean it up and organize it as best as you can, at least on the Ws all the coolant lines make it hard to see how much crap you have shoved under the tank.

But it seals if you manually push the float closed? I was thinking maybe a leak around the valve seat, but that wouldn’t explain it not leaking when manually closed. Everything lines up ok? Nothing binding on that carb when everything is assembled? How bad of shape is the spare set?

What they said. Try swapping the bowls between carbs 3 and 4?

As previously stated, you could ditch the coils and switch it to coil on plug, that'll remove 4 cables. If possible, see if you can route as many of the vent lines together to a single catch can or breather filter. They make cheap K&N style knock off filters that you can get online that are smaller than that foam filter you have on there now. Vent lines coming off the carbs can be ran towards the rear of the bike or behind the engine to get them out of the way too. But I've never seen any W or old 400 that wasn't just an absolute rats nest under the tank with all the plumbing. They did do a good job of hiding all that crap.

Found it, and yup, cheaper. Thanks!

Gonna order up a couple lengths of this as well.

I've had the quick disconnects as OEM parts on injected bikes, quite handy for removing the tank. Might go that route eventually, but one is a 7/11 with no clearance between the carbs and the tank, and the other is a stock 750 and the fairings make it hard to access under the tank. Just need to figure out a way to route the lines so I can access the quick disconnects easily. I think I'll order up some 8mm ID transparent Tygon line. I like a little flash of colour here and there on the bikes.

If you can, use an 1127 CDI, or even a bandit one. That 750F CDI will have a higher red line that's not good for the 1127 cranks. No reason to keep the TPS either. The later Fs and bandits had so much extra crap on them for emissions, best to ditch all that crap for the sake of simplicity. With an older CDI, you can start with a base diagram more like this one that posted previously.