Upshotknothole

I run a K4 6" wheel in my K4 swing arm no problem. No way in hell you're gonna get a 7" rim to work without a jack shaft.

All of my K&Ns on slingshots have been squashed and it's never been an issue. Other option is pull the rubbers from a bandit air box and fit RamAir filters over them. I run those on all my RS carbs, but then need something to slide over, so you'll need the rubbers.

Yeah, that's the one.

Breaking the glass does seem like it would speed things up a bit. I'll play around with it and see what I can figure out. Thanks

How hard was it to get the inner glass off the headlight housing? The reason I ask is I was reading up on doing a projector swap on my truck headlights and it got me thinking about doing these as well. The glass has to be removed and they fit into the headlight from the front and have a plate that fits into the stock bulb holder. Just wondering if it would be possible to retrofit them onto the bike. It's supposed to be nice out this weekend so I might try and start pulling my busted up headlight apart to see if this is doable or not. Ignore the fact that this is a truck headlight and not a GSXR headlight.

They’re usually on Eblag. Yosh makes them and there’s a Canadian company that makes them, can’t remember their name for the life of me. On my 92 750, rear axle is 10mm. Front axle is 15mm on the right, 10mm on the left. Not sure if the 1100s are the same, but should be close.

I think for now I'll try and focus on the bottom end and getting the head ported and polished. I can always look into a head swap later on. I really picked the worst year of all the oil cooled GSXRs to try and restore. Do Slabby 750 rods work in 749 slingshot engines? I found one set of NOS Carillo rods for an 87. 37mm bottom, 18mm top, 110mm length C to C. It seems like they do, just want to confirm.

So those Yosh cams are a problem as it's a shim head, and it doesn't look like Carillo does oil cooled 750 rods anymore. Also the parts site here in the states that I've used a lot is listing the same part number for all GSXR 750 rods from 88-95, which doesn't seem right. I'd have thought all the 749cc engines would have the same rods unless the Slabbies had different cranks. If Slabby and long stroke slingshots use the same rods, I might have found a set for sale. The big bore, lightened crank, carbs, exhaust, and oil coolers are the easy part. Even stock I'm leaning towards adding a second oil cooler to it.

I already have a build that will eventually get the turbo treatment. This one I want to see how far I can push an NA 750.

That looks pretty good and I can totally live with that in exchange for dumping all that weight off the nose.

Yeah, all of the fairing pieces have different numbers based on color and stickers. I'm pretty sure the belly plastics are the same, I think it's only the mids, uppers, and tails that are different. Tails mainly being different based on whether or not they had a grab rail.

Yeah, from past experience if one of these goes down without the fairings on it, the main things that hit are the bars, tank, case cover, tail, exhaust, and foot controls. No idea on the diameter, but they're tiny. You might be able to use a long bolt to connect the two sliders, but the axles aren't really something I have ever really worried about that much. The spools on the swing arm already stick out farther than the axle does in case the bike happens to tip over, and I've snapped front axle sliders right off of modern bikes at pretty low speeds. All I've ever ran on any of my slingshots for the past 20 years are case covers. The factory ones are paper thin and won't do much more than send a bunch of metal and gravel into the engine in a crash. Beyond that, good insurance and don't crash.

You might be able to modify some to fit, but usually those axle slider bungs fit into hollow axles. As for the rest of the bike, get some good aftermarket case covers. They're the first thing that will hit and the frames are pretty much fully protected by the engine. Crash bungs weren't really a thing back in the day when these bikes came out. You can get some crash guards for a blandit, but they mount to the lower part of the frame and will most likely dent/bend the frame in a crash more than actually protecting anything. Most of the sliders I've used on other bikes over the years mount to the upper side engine mounts, something Slingshots don't have. There's just no place really to mount anything like that, which is why everyone runs aftermarket case covers.

Welcome, start with a new battery, check the connections and go from there. Neutral light stops working before other stuff when the battery is pretty dead.

I want to keep it semi period correct looking and the W wheels make it easy to keep using the stock speedo drive. My 7/11 has all K series 1K wheels and suspension and benefits greatly, but this one I don't really want to use anything newer than W parts. This is my one and only roughly period correct bike.

Cool, I'll look and see what I can figure out with my W unit. I'm guessing the weight savings in the headlight was noticeable with it off the bike once the glass was removed.

They're similar enough that the job will be the same and I found the 91 M headlight cover on that site. Thanks for all the tips, was it pretty easy to change out that glass lens for the LEDs once the main glass is off? I wouldn't mind swapping in something a bit more modern. I'll post up when I start attempting to do it.

Thanks. Any suggestions for getting the glass off? Like I said, I've got a donor W unit that I don't mind sacrificing before trying anything on my good one. Do you think propping it up in front of a propane heater in the garage would work? I'd imagine a heat gun won't be able to get enough heat into all of it to get it off. Do you have any photos of yours after you did it? I'll go ahead and order up one of those covers before I start.

So I've got a US 92 GSXR 750 in the best and fastest paint scheme Suzuki ever made. I need to swap the emulsion tubes and give it a tune up, but I want to make it a little bit more exciting again. Basically I want it to be more like the short stroke 88 750 I had in my youth with RS36s that was all top end power. It's currently snowing where I live, I'm bored and there are a few things I've been wondering about doing for a while now to this bike. First off, I want to keep it 750 based, I've already got a 7/11 and an 11/12. I want to keep one bike that revs fast and has a peaky top end. 955 big bore kits. I know there are a few people on here that have done them. Do they still keep a similar power band? Do they suffer from using stock cams? I've given up on ever finding hotter cams for this engine. Carbs, eventually it'll get flat slides, but I've been holding off for now in case I do bore it out to 955. I've got a spare set of RS38s in my garage, but I don't want to completely kill the bottom end. So I'll stick with the stock 38 CVs until I figure out what I'm doing with it. Crank, recently saw a lightened and balanced crank on APE's web site which got me thinking more about the big bore kit. Guessing lightening the crank will help with keeping the engine peaky with the larger pistons. Head, should probably at least have a port and polish. Oversized valves as well or can I try and keep the costs down slightly? Suspension wise I need to swap the front end, probably for a 750W. I've also got straight spoke W wheels and a braced swing arm waiting to go on it. Just need to get the wheels powder coated to match the paint. Fairings have been the biggest pain in an ass. Who knew that a single year, single country model paint scheme would be so hard to find. The black plastics aren't that hard to find, but the sticker kit just doesn't exist anywhere. Thinking about getting a full set of aftermarket from Fiberman in Ireland. I've already got Airtech fairings on another bike and I'd like something a little nicer. Then get them painted in a similar pattern to stock, still heavy on the 90s vibe. That stupid hunk of glass over the headlights. The M/N 750s were fat pigs, and the headlight glass definitely contributes to it. I've heard if you sit it on the oven door and let the glass get really hot for awhile, it'll soften up the glue enough to pry it off. I've got a 750W headlight with a bunch of broken tabs that I don't mind sacrificing as a first attempt. Has anyone done this? Any pointers? Then I figure some clear acrylic cut to shape over the headlight opening in the fairings will be good enough. I probably won't get to this thing until next winter, have 3 other bikes in pieces taking up all the spare room in my garage currently that I need to deal with. And when it comes time to do the engine work, I've got a spare 1127 that I'll throw into it with the stock CV 38s just to see how it feels as a 7/11. Thanks for reading all of my ramblings. Before it really gets nice here again I do plan on doing a tune up, replacing the emulsion tubes as they've been shot for the past couple of years and doing the valves. Hoping that will pep it back up a little.

That's always been my take on the carb tops. Seems like the volume and the height would be designed to work with specific diaphragms and slides.

Those GSXR/teapot intake boots are also one of the ones that Suzuki decided to discontinue, and are in the highest demand because they're the only ones that fit Mikuni RS carbs without serious alterations.

Buy a case of those plugs so you'll have spares in the future.

Get it fitted yet?

Sometimes really all they need is to be ridden and all the cobwebs blown out.

The Yosh ignition covers also remove the oil pressure sender from there.