Upshotknothole

The online parts site I use here lists the J and K as different part numbers, with the J fitting lots and unavailable, while the K only fits a couple years of 750s/1100s and is available. But who knows what suzuki has done in the past 30 years with replacement parts on these engines.

I'm pretty sure that starter gear is supposed to have a little play in it. @fatblokeonbanditwould probably know better. Bike looks pretty clean without the plastics otherwise.

Now days they are, pretty sure they were different when new. I've gone through all of the cam part numbers as well, and I think as some point Suzuki decided it was cheaper to only make a limited number of replacement cams as they're all interchange in the tappet heads. I'll double check my old factory manual at some point and see if it lists the different cam part numbers for the various 750s.

In that case, they're horrible engines and I'll take it off your hands for 50 quid, including shipping to the states. Cheers! Really depends on condition, how's compression, how do the cams look, obvious crash damage, etc. In good condition and good compression I usually see them for about $500 here on the west coast of the US, but they don't pop up too often anymore.

There's usually a bit of play in that starter gear. Congratulations on the blandit. If you can get the engine sorted, I'm sure the rest of the parts you can find cheaply from someone else parting one after they've pulled the engine for another project. The alternator nut is usually hit with a punch on the edge of the exposed threads to lock it in place. I'd advise doing that again with the new one. You should be able to see marks on the old one and on the shaft. Aftermarket oil coolers are pretty cheap if you can fabricate up a bracket for it, or find a used stock one. Now post up some photos, we like to see photos of bikes here.

As far as I could tell while standing over the bike and measuring, about 38cm.

I've got the same problem where I'm at. Hand full of shops around with dynos, but if they can't tune your bike with a computer, they don't even want to talk to you.

When I get home later today I'll measure the one on my 750n, it'll be close, but not stock. My front end is lowered and not sure if the rear ride height has ever been adjusted.

If you have to use singles, it seems like the foam filters with the air box rubbers works better. Either way it'll probably need an afternoon on the dyno to get sorted.

Dual pods will make it run a lot better.

We like photos here, so do post up some if you buy it. Also check for oil leaks around the two oil return tubes on the front of the cylinder block. If they did a cheap rebuild and skipped replacing the o-rings on them, they will leak and need the head pulled back off.

The ram air filters flow a lot better than the K&Ns and the airbox rubbers probably help too. I still use K&Ns with CV carbs, but I use dual ram air with velocity stacks on flat slides.

I really wish we got these in the states. Search around online, plenty of Suzuki factory manuals out there. If you mainly need it for the engine, the GSXF750 manual should be pretty close.

I've been seeing an uptick in people on the internet claiming that you need an air box to get maximum HP out of these old GSXR engines lately, especially over on facebook. If that was true, all of the old racers would have kept the air boxes. Fuel injected bikes, thumpers, bikes with ram air and down draft carbs, yeah they need air boxes. Bandits and GSXRs are mostly fine without them. You want the dual pod filters, don't use the singles. Explanation I heard years ago was the dual pods give more standing air for the carbs to draw from, lets them breath a little better. Whether that's actually true or not, who knows, it's just what I was told and has been my experience with individual pods ever since. Most of the stock bandit/gsxr carbs work great without an airbox, the BST40s being the exception. Just extremely hard to tune with pods. A jet kit from DynoJet or FactoryPro will get you pretty close to where you want to be, a dyno will always get it the rest of the way.

This! I don't even trust hand written receipts anymore. Unless they're printed receipts from a legitimate shop, they don't mean shit.

Hearing it run is always a good start. Test ride it and see how the transmission and clutch feel.

Also, that 750 CDI has a rev limiter way higher than what that 1127 engine ever wants to see. Pay attention while riding, or swap it for an 1100 CDI or you're likely to blow the engine if you over rev it too many times.

Search around, this has been brought up a lot of times. Usually you only want the M-Unit controlling power to the CDI.

Not timing if it's idling. If it's only 3 and 4, then either plugs or carbs. Coils should be wired up to 1 & 4, and 2 & 3.

If the cams are 180 out, you'll get suction on the exhaust and it won't run at all. Any history on it?

Sometimes the floats stick and just need to be knocked around a bit to set them. Oil leak could be something loose or something needs a new crush washer. Clutch plates are probably stuck together, especially if the bike sat for a long time. You can disassemble the clutch and see how it looks, or if you're not too worried about it, roll the bike up to a wall or something to brace the front wheel with, start it up, and dump the clutch to do a burn out and see if it breaks free. I'd be more inclined to pull the clutch apart.

Any recommendations on the aftermarket ones? My 750 needs one, I've got all the brackets, but I'm sure the damper died years ago and was tossed. Ideally something adjustable.

Stock carbs? Grab an old throttle cable/string/zip tie and hook them up to the carbs and see how much comes out when you open them all the way.