Upshotknothole

All good reasons for a top end oil cooler and a fan. Even my 750 suffers in the heat in town during the summer.

Checked facebook and there's a guy in Poland selling a used set of blue 750 mirrors with scratches and a torn rubber boot for 250€. That's a pretty stupid price for mirrors in my opinion.

Considering the mirrors are one of the first things to hit the ground when these bikes go down, there's not a ton of them out there anymore. Just checked Eblag here in the states and there currently aren't any J/K 750 OEM mirrors for sale. Only time i ever really see original mirrors pop up it's on facebook marketplace and some collector is trying to sell a set of OEM blue or white mirrors for a premium, knowing that some other collector needs them to restore their bike to how it looked on the showroom floor. I've been running Emgo mirros on my 750 for the past few years, since I switched it back to full fairing. They're not quite OEM quality, but they're cheap and they work well enough.

I run the EMGO mirrors on my 91/92 750. Collectors and restorers have made originals stupid expensive. They work well enough.

Get a new stop welded to the middle of lower triple and use the factor stops on the head stock.

Get new calipers or take them to a machine shop to get Timeserts installed. Discovered on one of my bikes that someone had stripped a caliper bolt and then drilled the fork lower to fit a larger bolt. Pain in the ass later if you want to run different calipers.

I'd jet it for where you live and then maybe adjust the mains if you're gonna be going down to sea level. My bikes are jetted for sea level, but an hour away I can be riding at 5K+ feet in the Cascades. You already live higher than I can ride here, highest road near me tops out at 6K'. FI would definitely make it easier to go back and forth without making adjustments. Also some carbs have access bolts on the bottom of the bowls to make swapping main jets easier. Might be worth it to look into some flat slides if you don't want to deal with FI. Also what I usually notice on my bikes when getting to higher elevations is top end power when wide open is where it's most noticeable. There are some really nice long sweepers up in those mountains...if I was cruising along at a normal pace, I doubt I'd notice as much. Play around with it and post up what ends up working for you.

Ditch the adapter plate and get a bung welded into the bottom of the tank and it'll raise the pingel up a little. Though I've never had a problem with my 7/11 with an 89 frame and RS38s and a Pingel with the adapter plate, it's tight but it fits.

I run a K4 6" wheel in my K4 swing arm no problem. No way in hell you're gonna get a 7" rim to work without a jack shaft.

All of my K&Ns on slingshots have been squashed and it's never been an issue. Other option is pull the rubbers from a bandit air box and fit RamAir filters over them. I run those on all my RS carbs, but then need something to slide over, so you'll need the rubbers.

Yeah, that's the one.

Breaking the glass does seem like it would speed things up a bit. I'll play around with it and see what I can figure out. Thanks

How hard was it to get the inner glass off the headlight housing? The reason I ask is I was reading up on doing a projector swap on my truck headlights and it got me thinking about doing these as well. The glass has to be removed and they fit into the headlight from the front and have a plate that fits into the stock bulb holder. Just wondering if it would be possible to retrofit them onto the bike. It's supposed to be nice out this weekend so I might try and start pulling my busted up headlight apart to see if this is doable or not. Ignore the fact that this is a truck headlight and not a GSXR headlight.

They’re usually on Eblag. Yosh makes them and there’s a Canadian company that makes them, can’t remember their name for the life of me. On my 92 750, rear axle is 10mm. Front axle is 15mm on the right, 10mm on the left. Not sure if the 1100s are the same, but should be close.

I think for now I'll try and focus on the bottom end and getting the head ported and polished. I can always look into a head swap later on. I really picked the worst year of all the oil cooled GSXRs to try and restore. Do Slabby 750 rods work in 749 slingshot engines? I found one set of NOS Carillo rods for an 87. 37mm bottom, 18mm top, 110mm length C to C. It seems like they do, just want to confirm.

So those Yosh cams are a problem as it's a shim head, and it doesn't look like Carillo does oil cooled 750 rods anymore. Also the parts site here in the states that I've used a lot is listing the same part number for all GSXR 750 rods from 88-95, which doesn't seem right. I'd have thought all the 749cc engines would have the same rods unless the Slabbies had different cranks. If Slabby and long stroke slingshots use the same rods, I might have found a set for sale. The big bore, lightened crank, carbs, exhaust, and oil coolers are the easy part. Even stock I'm leaning towards adding a second oil cooler to it.

I already have a build that will eventually get the turbo treatment. This one I want to see how far I can push an NA 750.

That looks pretty good and I can totally live with that in exchange for dumping all that weight off the nose.

Yeah, all of the fairing pieces have different numbers based on color and stickers. I'm pretty sure the belly plastics are the same, I think it's only the mids, uppers, and tails that are different. Tails mainly being different based on whether or not they had a grab rail.

Yeah, from past experience if one of these goes down without the fairings on it, the main things that hit are the bars, tank, case cover, tail, exhaust, and foot controls. No idea on the diameter, but they're tiny. You might be able to use a long bolt to connect the two sliders, but the axles aren't really something I have ever really worried about that much. The spools on the swing arm already stick out farther than the axle does in case the bike happens to tip over, and I've snapped front axle sliders right off of modern bikes at pretty low speeds. All I've ever ran on any of my slingshots for the past 20 years are case covers. The factory ones are paper thin and won't do much more than send a bunch of metal and gravel into the engine in a crash. Beyond that, good insurance and don't crash.

You might be able to modify some to fit, but usually those axle slider bungs fit into hollow axles. As for the rest of the bike, get some good aftermarket case covers. They're the first thing that will hit and the frames are pretty much fully protected by the engine. Crash bungs weren't really a thing back in the day when these bikes came out. You can get some crash guards for a blandit, but they mount to the lower part of the frame and will most likely dent/bend the frame in a crash more than actually protecting anything. Most of the sliders I've used on other bikes over the years mount to the upper side engine mounts, something Slingshots don't have. There's just no place really to mount anything like that, which is why everyone runs aftermarket case covers.

Welcome, start with a new battery, check the connections and go from there. Neutral light stops working before other stuff when the battery is pretty dead.

I want to keep it semi period correct looking and the W wheels make it easy to keep using the stock speedo drive. My 7/11 has all K series 1K wheels and suspension and benefits greatly, but this one I don't really want to use anything newer than W parts. This is my one and only roughly period correct bike.

Cool, I'll look and see what I can figure out with my W unit. I'm guessing the weight savings in the headlight was noticeable with it off the bike once the glass was removed.

They're similar enough that the job will be the same and I found the 91 M headlight cover on that site. Thanks for all the tips, was it pretty easy to change out that glass lens for the LEDs once the main glass is off? I wouldn't mind swapping in something a bit more modern. I'll post up when I start attempting to do it.