Upshotknothole

The hose coming off the carb boot should go to the vacuum port on the petcock.

No heat shield and no nasty fairings to get in the way either.

Thanks, yeah I think I'll bring a couple sets of jets and then see how it runs and decide along the way if I want to sit at camp drinking beer or changing jets.

I've got another 1100 that will be getting injection and a turbo, this one I'm trying to keep old fashioned. I'll check the current jets and get a size leaner to bring along. Thanks.

In September a mate and I are doing a 3500 mile road trip here in the states that will take us from sea level to around ten thousand feet at the highest point. The bike currently has as far as I know a stock M 1127 engine, RS38s with velocity stacks and Ramair filters, and a full Akro system. Other than a slight stumble on the bottom end that I need to get sorted, the bike runs great, at sea level or close to it. We're only going to be at really high elevation for maybe 2 days out of 10, and I'm trying to decide now if I should start planning on having to swap mains at a campground along the way or if I can lug it and power through for a couple of days in the Rockies.

7/11 with an 89 slingy frame and 05-06 gsxr 1k front end, stock damper off the 1K, but can't say that I've ever noticed it. Forks have been resprung and the rear has a K4 swing arm and a penske shock and it handles great. I've considered swapping the stock with an Ohlins for the bling, but really can't be bothered.

Cheers, I'll start keeping an eye out for K/L heads and M/N cams. Probably still gonna do the dot head swap as a short term boost and wait until over the winter for the 1216. I remember reading years ago that the M/N heads were capable of tossing a shim under high revs, but I'm guessing that's not really an issue on the street.

What would you suggest for an 1100M engine? I've been thinking about swapping on a dot head, although eventually I'd like to go with a 1216 kit, but M/N aftermarket cams are pretty hard to find compared to the earlier models. Already have the suspension sorted and RS38s on it, but I'd like a bit more power.

954 rearsets fit too if you drill out the bolt holes. Currently have a set drilled out that I need to get the brake MC for to swap.

Yeah, also going to pull the other set of carbs off my project bike and see how the needle valves look on them. Might just swap the jets over and try them, they're nicer looking as well. I also discovered that I'd left one of the intake clamps on carb #4 completely loose, that could explain part of the high idle. There's also a bit of weeping around the spacer for the pingel, so next week I'm going to pull that off and get a bung welded in too.

Unfortunately I'm in the states. I've been on this site for over a decade at this point with different usernames on the different forums. Never really been a fan of say what now!?.com, too many damned purists that get all bent out of shape if you strip the plastics and swap the parts around.

I remembered that I have a second set of RS38s sitting on another project at home. Taking the bike camping this weekend, but I might try swapping the carbs and jets next week. Then see about ordering the replacement needles. Does anyone happen to know what size needle valves are needed for RS38s? I saw 3 different sizes listed online. Cheers.

They're only leaking when the bike is off. I already swapped out the stock petcock with a Pingel as the stock one wasn't sealing very well anymore and the tank would empty itself over night. Took it out for the first ride last night and it is also slow to return to idle at times, more so if pointing up hill and less so if pointing down hill at a stop. The Pingel helps, but they're still emptying the fuel lines and leaving the garage smelling of gas. Float needle valves? I also suspect I need to adjust the floats too.

The Vortex one that APE sells in the states. Check around, you might be able to find a replacement bolt for each side that's drilled and tapped for the fairing bolt. http://gsxrzone.com/oil.html

Which top end oiler? The one I have has the bolt holes, though the bike is naked now.

Check the emulsion tubes too. If the needles are extremely worn, the tubes are usually shot too. In the states, if the needle height is adjustable, it's aftermarket, not sure about the UK.

I've still got a couple old Yosh 750 headers that look exactly like that one, with at least the same amount of rust. The can might be from a later system, but that header looks like a Yosh to me. It's been too long since I've seen a V&H to remember what they look like.

I ended up ordering the Ram Airs from the UK, pretty cheap and showed up in about a week. Haven't had a chance to fit them yet, hopefully in the next few nights I'll have a chance to pull the carbs and clean them get the new filters fitted.

The welder I'll be going to has a trick that he's used on all of the tanks that he's welded. Holds the tank opening to a car exhaust for 5 minutes and fills the tank with exhaust fumes and closes it. It's worked so far.

I have I believe 4 different tanks at home, I'll play around with all of them to check. I have a mix of 750 and 1100 tanks in both the California(stupid fucking emissions crap) and standard varieties. Similar thing happened to me, stock petcock other than not flowing enough, stopped closing all the way and dumped a good part of the tank on the floor of my garage. I also found that here in the states, the steel Pingel bung for welding to the tank is only about $12.

Thanks! Once I get the new set of rubber tank spacers I'll be able to see how much room I actually need. Hopefully I'll run into my welder at the bar after work.

So I'm currently waiting on a new set of replacement rubber spacers for the tank, but with the stock 1127 head still on the engine, the pingel valve barely clears the top of the carb when turned off. I also have a dot head sitting on the shelf that I'd like to swap over and I know that I'll have even less clearance after that. So I'm thinking about getting one of these bungs welded directly to the tank so I can ditch the adapter plate and gain a little bit more clearance. http://www.pingelonline.com/Fuel-Valves/steel-tank-bung.asp Has anyone used one? Also is there any difference in the clearance with a 750 or an 1100 tank? Getting the whole bike painted in a couple of months, so I don't mind chopping and welding the tank right now. Cheers

Thanks, looks simple enough.

I can't remember if it was on the facebook page or the old forum, but I remember seeing somewhere a wiring diagram for using an R6 coil lead with COPs and hooking it up to the stock harness. Does anyone happen to remember it or have a copy of it or know where to find it? Not necessarily expecting any performance improvements out of it, but there's currently fuck all for space to get to the coils with all of my wiring moved back inside the frame. I've already got an R6 harness to hack up and will be buying COPs shortly. Thanks.

Thanks, I'm guessing these are the ones to go with then. http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-PERFORMANCE-FOAM-SOCK-AIR-FILTERS-SUZUKI-GSXR1100-89-1993-/390490981793 This is what's currently on the bike and they're old and the rubber is cracking and I've never really been all that sure of how well they worked. And here's a photo of the current state of the bike, because I know how much everyone likes project photos.