Upshotknothole

I don't think the stock ones could ever be rebuilt, and if they could, Suzuki would have discontinued the parts years ago. A quick google search and it sounds like you can carefully uncrimp it and take it apart and replace the bushings with generic ones, but there aren't any rebuild kits or anything like that for them.

Unfortunately not many other options.

Talking about the front ones? No blanking plates that I know of, but people have gotten creative and mounted bar end LED signals as flush mounts.

Nope, I've only got two of the 750 ones, and they're both currently in bikes to keep them rollers. I've seen the braced 750 swing arms go cheap on Eblag from time to time, but seems like all the 1100W stuff is going for stupid money now.

Maybe if enough of us show interest he might do another batch of them. I wouldn't mind having one in case I should decide to go that route with another build in the future. I still have a couple 95 GSXR 750w braced swing arms that are an easier swap, but they're getting harder to find and don't really look as nice as the newer stuff in some builds.

I'm pretty sure I've seen the drawings in the custom builds section. I think it might have been in @Digsbuild, but not positive.

If you search, someone on here was selling lower bolt on brackets for fitting busa arms, they work with the K arms as well. Measurements should still be on here too. They bolt to where the exhaust hanger attaches to the frame below where the stock linkage attaches.

Different tooth count between the 1127s and 1200s. Gotta swap the gear, which is a pain, or any of the 1200s will fit, they're all interchangeable. Don't try and start it with that GSXR one in there, you'll lose teeth.

You don't get bragging rights at the pub for easy mods. I've had a bike with a stock SSSA and they're great for working on, look amazing, easy to clean the wheel etc, but I believe Triumph listed a 40+ lbs difference between the SSSA and the conventional the one time they offered a choice. These days I'd rather go for the weight savings and easier mods, but they do still look good.

The shop that did mine had a computrac system and did all the measurements and calculations. My 89 7/11 is almost identical to a mid 00's 750 as far as geometry goes, the wheel base is only like I think 20mm longer. Handles great, but definitely sits higher than a stock slingshot 750.

I love this site because someone will come along and make me feel like I have a totally normal number of GSXRs.

I have a K4 swing arm in my 89 7/11, either the top shock mount or the bottom linkage mount needs to be moved back to make it work. I have a custom top shock mount on mine, but seen plenty of people move the bottom mount as well.

Some of the rear wheels can be swapped between the different swing arms, but you have to swap the hole hub assembly. Had an old friend that did it with a fireblade, but I can't remember what swing arm he had or what he stuck into it, because it was a fireblade and I just didn't care. I think I've seen S3 swing arms modified in old street fighter magazines, they had to be machined down, new end plates made up. Out of all of the SSSAs, the Triumph ones have always been the hardest to use with anything else because they're just so damn wide. There are some on Eblag here in the states for K series 1000s, but they all want stupid money for them. Eblag swing arm

Hard to say from that side. They look stock, but without seeing the other side and if there's a power jet circuit or not, and without knowing the size, all of the BST carbs from back then look pretty similar.

I used to have an 05 S3, the swing arm is extremely wide and heavy. Better off using a Duc or VFR swing arm as they're narrower.

Yeah, the JIS bits aren't magical or anything, but they're a hell of a lot more effective than a normal phillips bit on stubborn screws. Biggest difference is they're a lot less likely to immediately strip the screw head and require drilling or notching. Good luck.

The online parts distributor I use here in the states currently lists slingshot 750 emulsion tubes as unavailable, which kinda sucks as they’re a wear item. My 750 currently has a dynojet kit in them with worn out emulsion tubes, but I want to swap them back to Factory Pro, and I just happened to come across these on Eblag. $40 shipped! Looks like I’ll be rejetting my carbs over the winter now. It’s nice to find cheap parts once in awhile when everyone else is constantly trying to charge a premium for slingshot parts now.

Nice rat bike you’ve got there. I started off on a 600 and by the end it looked similar.

You can run heavier springs, but stick with OEM frictions and steels. None of the aftermarket clutches compare to OEM. Brembo master with braided lines is always a nice upgrade for the brakes. For the clutch, search on here, there's one specific Brembo M/C that works best with the oil cooled clutches, but I can never remember which one it is.

Get an impact driver with JIS bits. Regular phillips bits slip out of Japanese screws. You can replace all of them with allen head screws when you rebuild it, but anything on a Suzuki that looks like a phillips is actually a JIS screw and really needs the correct driver. The intake boots take a JIS #3 bit, carbs are a mix of JIS #1 and #2.

It'll be fine with that gas. Are you running a stock clutch with your setup?

Here in the states, at least on the west coast where I’ve always lived, the bandits were more of an old man/touring bike, and everything with a full fairing got ridden into the ground. Most people here still think street fighters are crashed sports bikes that you didn’t have the money to repair. If you wanted to look cool when you pulled up to the coffee shop, you needed something with a fairing, and ideally a matching jacket and helmet. The US also doesn’t give a damn if you’re 16 and want to buy a liter bike or a busa for your first motorcycle to learn on, helps keep the used sports bike parts cheap. The other thing that we don’t have here is anything even close to MOT. Want to register a motorcycle? All you need to do is let them verify the VIN and it should have lights on it, but they don’t give a damn about making sure it’s safe for the road…and I’ve seen so many bikes over the years that should not have been on the road. So that sports bike that won’t pass MOT over there and gets sold off as a project, will get ridden for a few more years here until it’s really destroyed.

They keep getting brought up in the threads here, so definitely keep an eye out for a GSX1100F(power screen or in the states "katana", but they weren't really a katana) engine or complete bike if you can find one for a good price. They were the best sport touring engine out of all the oil cooled lumps. Otherwise bandit engines as they're newer and usually don't get hammered on quite as hard as the GSXRs.

Holeshot and APE have both been doing it for a long time. Holeshot probably has more experience with the bandits and doing mild street tunes on them. Give Holeshot a call first and see what they recommend, APE is good for machine work and any parts that Holeshot doesn't stock. I agree with DAZ, stay away from doing a crazy high compression build. Nothing wrong with going with forged pistons, but use a base gasket to keep the compression reasonable for using pump gas. Years ago a took a friend's bandit with a 1216 kit from Dale Walker for a test ride, big bore, lumpy cams, exhaust, and jet kit. Tons of mid range power, and a nice lumpy idle like an old muscle car.

Bandit engines are typically cheaper and easier to find. I'd stick with the bandit, and as I assume this will be a winter project, and you already ordered some extra parts for your blown engine, do a 1216 kit. You're in the states, so Holeshot parts will be easy to get, and there's APE for anything else. Maybe some mild cams on top of the big bore to wake it up a little, but nothing crazy to help keep all that mid range power that you're after for the side hack.