Upshotknothole

I bought a hacked up GSXR 1100 off some kids years ago because they swapped the tank and petcock and used tiny diameter vent hose for the fuel line. Idled and rode at low rpm fine, but would starve as soon as you opened it up. How are you hooking up the external fuel tank to the carbs?

Make sure the lines aren't getting pinched under the tank when it's back on? Don't need much fuel in the tank to rev it in the garage.

It shouldn't take much in the way of vacuum to open up the tap at all. Bit of hose on it and you should be able to just suck on it and it will open up.

If you ever swap out the BST38s with big flat slides(RS38-40, FCR39-41), you'll be more inclined to spend the money on the pingel as they flow way more fuel than the stock tap. I'm currently running a cheap aftermarket petcock on my 750 with BST38s and it's fine for them. You can find them on Eblag, but it's damn near impossible to switch that thing from On to Res while riding, so it lives on Res. One of these days I'll swap a stock one back in there.

Open up the petcocks and check the diaphragms. Stock petcock should be fine with BST38s. May be able to rebuild one good petcock out of the two, I've never really heard anything good regarding the aftermarket rebuild kits. Other option is to stick a pingel on it, just gotta make sure to turn it off. I'd suggest double checking the vacuum line, but if they're barely flowing on prime, they're clogged up internally.

Cool, a 600 cooler is probably gonna be the absolute minimum then. Maybe a B12 cooler if you're trying to keep costs down and keep it stock. My stock GSXR 750 slingshot gets really hot and smelly on hot days sitting in traffic, and that's with the giant curved oil cooler that it came with. On a naked build the B12 cooler or similar size should be fine.

How much street time does the bike actually get? If you just want it for at the strip, stick a teapot or b6 cooler on it, they're both pretty small and with a little creativity could probably be ran vertical down the front frame tube.

The Mikuni CV carbs only need one throttle cable, and usually only have a mount for one, like yours appear to have. The stock carbs did use a lever and cable for the choke. Pretty sure you can swap them to a side pull, or they might be off something else, but oil cooled carbs are fairly interchangeable. Other than the two fuel lines going into the bottom, everything else is vents and emissions crap. They like to have some amount of hose on them, but can be vented to atmosphere or ran through a small filter. Someone with more experience with the powerscreens will come along and know if those are the right carbs or not.

Here’s the stock 750 bars, and they’re pretty tight clearance wise between the fairing and the side of the engine.

Suzuki used two slave cylinders on lots of bikes for years, the rebuild kits are only about $20 here in the states from All Balls. Probably the best bet. Here are what they fit and photos of the parts. One fits the following bikes (allegedly) Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Clutch Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit 01-05, GSX1100F 88-93, GSXR1300R Hayabusa 99-01, GSXR750 86-87 And the other fits these bikes. Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Clutch Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit 97-00, GSX1100G 91-93, GSXR1100 86-98, GSXR1300R Hayabusa 02-03, RF900R 94-97 All of mine are currently in complete systems, so can't really get a view of the piston to compare to yours. Maybe contact All Balls or someone else that makes the rebuild kits?

They're not great, and the stock bars are mounted off the front of the forks, giving a little bit more clearance to the side of the bike at full lock. You get used to turning the bike on the kickstand.

Post up some photos of it. That should at least help with guessing what bike it came off of. I've got slaves off of 1127 engines and an early 00s bandit in the garage. It's probably the same as one of those if it came off an oil cooled bike other than a slabbie. The second gen bandits, early busas, first gen GSXR 750s, and powerscreen 1100s all share the same clutch cylinder, so it's likely that or the one that came on the oil and water cooled GSXR 1100s, and the RF900s.

They used the same slave cylinders on both, as well as a bunch of other bikes. Really depends on what year it came off of.

Either of those will fit, might need to swap the oil pan and oil pickup as well if the exhaust fouls on the bottom of the pan. 750 exhausts might also hang a little low, but shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Welcome, and first off, those are slingshot wheels that you have in your slabbie, so they're not going to be a direct match to the manual. Slingshots do have the brake mount up against the swing arm, with a small spacer between the mount and the wheel. Look up the info for an 88/89 750 and that should help.

Of course, 336 shims available for a valve job!

This is from the slingshot 750 shop manual, so disregard the clearances if they’re different from the 1100s. Suzuki only says to use a suitable tool to push the rocker out of the way. No mention of any factory tool or anything.

I've got a factory manual that I can double check later, but I seem to remember you just push them out of the way. I've also got an 1100m that I need to do the valves on soon, so it'll be good information to have.

Using RS38s, and easy enough to move the throttle bracket if needed. Also easy enough to raise the rear of the tank a little if I have to.

Oh yeah, I'd forgotten about the o-rings in the head gasket. I want the bandit ones and not the 750 ones, right?

Got a pile of parts in the garage that I want to turn back into a daily/beater/commuter for now. Tired of putting miles on the nicer bikes, but I also want to make it fun. What parts do I need to swap a dot head onto a bandit? I’d like to get everything in advance so I don’t spend too much time waiting on parts when I decide to build it. Head gasket Oil return o-rings Anything else? Plans are to swap the head, stick the engine into an old 1100 slingshot frame, already has a braced 750w swing arm to help keep the front light. Not sure which front end I’ll use yet. Got a spare set of RS38s and a full Yosh 1200 exhaust. Here’s how it currently sits. Ignore that dumb W in the background.

The drive gears on the 600s are different, not sure on the Mk1 vs Mk2 1200s.

What they said about FBM. Really just depends on your budget, and how much HP you want.

Why not just wire the factory switch up to a brighter bulb on the dash?

Not the first time I’ve seen them partially melted, just the first time I’ve been stranded by it. I’m gonna try and switch it back to the factory connectors tomorrow, threw a couple wire nuts on it today and already took it for a test ride, seems like nothing else was damaged.