Upshotknothole

You'll probably need to disassemble it. Check the factory manual, it should show how to take it apart. I just checked, and to be honest, I'm fucking amazed, you can still get that brass piece from Suzuki.

Check this item on Eblag. 274139625095 You'll find them for bandit 1200s, all the lower engine mounts are the same spacing.

They didn't make crash bars for sports bikes back then. Bandit or teapot and you'll need to force them to fit. I've helped a friend mount them to an 87 and I'm pretty sure they were off an F. I wouldn't run them though, steel crash bar bolted to an aluminum frame, I know what's going to give first. If you're only trying to protect the engine, better off getting proper case covers. They're not cheap, but they'll protect the engine in a crash. What's your goal with this bike? Seeing what the sports bike thing is all about? Having some fun on a nimble bike? You don't really ever see old GSXRs with these crash guards, as they really limit the lean angle in turns. If you're trying to use them to mount highway pegs on the bike, you have the wrong bike. These GSXRs are not comfortable bikes, especially compared to modern bikes that are way more compact and upright. If you're nervous about dropping it because of the riding position, look into a bandit.

1100? Stock carbs? How does it run now? Does it have a jet kit in it already? The CV carbs prefer having dual K&N style filters rather than individual filters like you have on it now.

The welds aren’t pretty, but the geometry works really well. I believe the Penske shock is for a K4 1K as well, but not positive. I think it uses the K4 linkage as well, but can’t remember and I’m out of town at the moment.

I've got a K4 1K swing arm in my slingshot 7/11. The top shock mount is the biggest issue, you'll need to move it up and back to get the linkage working how it's supposed to. I'll see if I can find some photos of how mine is set up. People have also done busa swing arms by lowering the bottom linkage mount.

Looks good.

Brembos are good for both, or GSXR masters for the brakes, but watch out for the mid 2Ks, lots of recalls on those. The clutch is a strange ratio and a lot of masters don't work well on it. Forget which ones are supposed to be better. I usually convert them to a cable as I've never liked the feel of hydraulic clutches.

You used to be able to get cams for these heads. More likely the fact that they didn't make that many. Rest of the world got shim head 750s for only 2 years, we got them in the states for 3. The 1127s weren't made with them for very long either. Yet the tappet heads were made from 85-2007 with the bandits and Fs. No one wants to make cams for a 30 year old bike that was only made for about 2 years when they can sell you a conversion kit to run cams for an engine that was made for 22 years.

Without reading any of the articles, just based on my personal experience destroying engines. Hot cams with stock valve springs, and high RPM are a good way to float a valve, and with these shim heads, spit the shim out.

Well, considering my GSXR 750 is a shim head and the rev limiter on it is 12.5K, and I've hit it plenty of times without spitting a shim, I would imagine that whatever the stock rev limit is for the 1127s is more than safe. I've also got an 1127 shim head with RS38s that's pretty rev happy and I'm sure I've hit the rev limiter on it plenty of times as well. Really sounds like all of the shim spitting was done on poorly set up drag bikes that had nothing to do with real world riding. Still wish I could get aftermarket cams for my shim heads.

As others have said, the 750s really need to be opened up to be fun. Though you mentioned yours is a 905 now, so it's not going to be down that much on mid range. You could always look into doing a track day on it, or maybe meet and ride with some locals that are on sports bikes that can offer some pointers. These old race bikes do want you to move your body around on the bike a lot more than the cruisers would ever ask for. You could also try removing the plastics and clipons and putting some renthals on it for a season and see how you like it. The fairings aren't really doing anything at the speeds you're riding it, and the stock riding position is not comfortable. I've personally always found these bikes to be way more fun in town naked. Or maybe sports bikes just aren't your thing. I've ridden a mates bandit with a 1216 kit and lumpy cams and other than not really being into the riding position on bandits, I could tell that engine would get me into a lot of trouble in town. Plenty of options if you want to stick with the old Suzukis.

Just takes time to get used to. I've been riding Suzukis with oil cooled engines for the better part of the last 2 decades. Currently daily a 92 750 while getting a 7/11 and 7/12 back on the road. The fairings on the 91/92 do make the bikes easy to get blown around on windy days, you get used to it. A couple of years ago when I'd had my current 750 for less than 6 months, I had it transported down to LA to meet friends, and rode it back to Portland, OR. Other than my body not being used to that riding position for that long, the bike did fine. I trust these old oil cooled engines more than a lot of the newer bikes with reg/rec charging issues. Also mine occasionally sees 130+ MPH up in the mountains and it does fine. The elevation is really the only time that I wish it was fuel injected. As long as your tires and suspension are in good order and properly set up, these bikes love triple digit sweepers.

Can you still get those cams? I was just looking at the Yosh website and the only 1100s they offer cams for are 89-90, and 93-97. I've got a 7/11 and a 750 that both have shim heads and I'd love to be able to put hotter cams in them. If it wasn't for the M already having the best flowing head, I'd have done a dot head swap to get access to better cams, going to stick it on a bandit engine instead.

Spacing on the bolts seems to be the same on all of them, but depending on the triple, some need material removed, some need spacers added.

Nice setup, did you have to figure out a reverse for it or can you still maneuver it around? Got a friend with limited use of his feet, so same thing, rides a bike with a side hack, but had to get something with reverse for parking.

As said above, you need the 1100 sprockets. 750s are one tooth off from 1100s on cam timing.

Maybe in freezing the tubes with a spray can, but you're not going to get enough heat into the case to make any difference. Spraying some degreaser or penetrating oil might help too. And as previously said, replace the o-rings. They're known to leak if reused.

This is straight from the factory 1988 750 manual. so one tooth difference from the 1100.

The ones on my US 750N appear to be 39mm, doesn’t really surprise me that the dot era heads had shorter intakes.

Cool, thanks.

If you have a chance, could you measure the length of these intakes? They're different part numbers from the standard GSXR intakes, and I'm curious if they're shorter than my stock ones. Thanks

I've got the factory manual out in the garage, when I go out there later I'll try and get a photo, but should be the same as that.

Nice, I should grab a set for my 750 then.

BST40S. The short stroke 750s had BST36s, they went to BST38s in 90. I've got a US 750N with the BST38s and RS carbs fall right out of the intakes. The intakes for the dot heads and first gen 750Fs were the best ones for fitting RS carbs.