Jaydee

11mm is way too high for b12 mk.1 carbs. (Think mk.2 type carbs are 11mm) 14.6mm +/-1mm is what they should be. You need to tilt the carbs over to take the weight of the float off the float needle. The tab should be touching the float needle without pressing in its pin. Try making a template out of a piece of card, something like a cornflakes box. With one hand, hold the carbs with two fingers pressing down the bridge, with the other hand use the template making sure its square to its base. Makes life a lot easier than fumbling with a set of verniers calipers.

A K&N filter will allow more airflow. Because the fuel metering has remained the same, the extra airflow will now have the fuel ratio running on the lean side. The more air, the leaner it gets. You have to upjet to match the airflow. What type of K&N is it? In the airbox (stage 1 kit recommended) or is it pods ( stage 3 kit recommended)?

I wouldn't beat yourself up over it. When it comes to water cooled model, I'm happy enough to just know the early ones are bananas and the later ones are braced. It's not like an important subject such as oil cooled.

Learn something new everyday. I did try a banana arm in my K (fitted the slingy frame no problem) before the braced arm but didn't like the look but it was that long ago I couldn't remember the pivot bolt size so assumed it was the same as the later braced arm I used.

It's a good while back since I last did one. I put one of the later 1100w braced arms (after banana arms) in an 1127K. From memory the arms pivot widths were the same, just the W's arms use a fatter pivot bolt. It was just a case of glueing the 1127K bushing/sleeve in to the water cooled sleeve so I could use the slimmer slingshot pivot bolts. I used the W dogbones (slimmer than 1127 so clears shock and inside of brace ) and used the slingshot knuckle with them. Don't forget though, you're working the other way around so have to sleeve the two sides of the frame as w bolt wont fit through an oil cooled arm.

I've done it the other way round, put w/c arms in slingshot frames. Don't forget the w/c stuff has a bigger diameter pivot bolt than oil cooled. This may be a problem, but you might get away with some sleeves/top hat spacers on the w/c frame so the oil cooled pivot bolt can be used with its respective arm.

Here you go. From the 1127K/L Suzuki workshop manual but same settings for M/N.

About 12.5mm, give or take 0.5mm.

Yes 1052, 1127 and 1157 cam covers are interchangeable.

Nope, U.S.D. slingy forks are 214mm but 1127K R.W.U. forks are 205mm. Not too sure of the offset, but I can measure a set later. I.I.R.C. the offsets 35mm(?)

Think I had a bucket on my head when I was typing that C.C.

As Foz said, your 1127 is has a bucket and shim head(M/N). Shim heads have different cams and valves than locknut 1127/1157 heads. 1127 K, L, M and N's use a conventional timing chain whereas 1157's have a hyvo timing chain. 1127 and 1157 cranks/cam wheels differ to suit respective timing chains. Have a look at 'Frankenstein's guide to oil cooled engines' Plenty of useful info to familiarise youself with oil boilers. http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/404

Pre '93? Didn't think there was an 1157 before 95. Sure its not an 1127? Whats the engine number prefix? It'd help i.d. the motor.

Have a look at the little springs under the 3 balancing screws. Are any missing, badly seated or distorted? I once was working a mates slingy. Could not get the carbs to balance or get a stable tickover. Turned out that some one had been at the carbs before me and had lost a balancing spring, which they replaced with a crappy (lighter than stock) spring which wasn't strong enough to push its respective plate. Once spring was replaced, everything was A1.

All slingshot 750 and 1100 will fit. Same with the pre-srad 750's and 1072 w/c's.

I like it. Love the stance.

Same top yoke as mine. 750 yoke has c+ Yeah, identical top yoke to the 11K one I have. Could be 750 forks with 11 yokes.

Just measured them, 750mm'ish from axle center to top of fork (not including preload adjuster) Yours might be 750K then 20mm shorter????

Must learn to read stuff. I just like looking at the pickshurs me.

Looks like the 11K front end I have sitting in the garage. Check the fork top centers, 11K are 205mm apart. 732mm fork length sound about right.

GR7AD is a gsxr 750 M frame.

1127K has 90mm spaced Nissin 4 pot calipers. Same ones are on the L,M and N and a host of Suzukis.

Yes, same stroke damper fits all slingshot 750 and 1127's. It's the brackets that are different. The bracket under the tank hangs lower to clear the underslung 750 clip ons. Fork clamps are different too, 750 item is for a 50mm fork and 1100 one are for a 52mm fork.

One of my mates has one of these on his 1127L so even the rigid material can be used if it's designed well enough to have the clearances not to be fowling anything.

Think it's for the oil cooled motors. As Gammaboy said it's got the clearance holes for the top oil feed hoses. Same as in the Yoshi catalog.