Reinhoud

Violence, hammer and a welder, and everything fits!

If you get rust in the tank caused by the water, you can get it perfectly out with electrolysis. Don't try to get the rust out with washers or nuts, doesn't work, and it's a pain to get everything out, even with a magnet on a stick. Be aware, tank is made from thin sheet steel! Not sure how your welding skills are, may be have it done, preferably with TIG. If you're afraid for fatigue with your return, weld 4 or 5 mm thick flat bar on the bottom off the tank, and make it so you can bolt the return on. That will give it more strength.

10mm

Yes, I have it like that. You can weld on the tank without fucking up the paint, fill it completely with water, but be care full. Take a 5mm thick flat bar and weld that to the tank, this can be tricky because off the thin wall thickness of the tank.

My first attempt for the fuel return I build at the spot where the float for the fuel gauge is mounted in the tank, but that went wrong...

Faulty big end bearing knocks quite loud.. You don't need a stethoscope, a flat screwdriver will do, you probably can listen a little bit more detailed with that. I'm afraid it's going to cost you a new set off gaskets to find out what's wrong with it.

I don't have a Bandit, but a GS1000, I needed to move the fuel tap because of different carbies, I built the return on the spot for fuel tap. Steel strip en welded a tube on 1 cm from the top off the tank. Fill tank with water, and the paint will be right during welding.

He can get custom stuff too. No shares in his company, just good experiences

http://www.dynoman.net/engine/pistons/hondaSleeves.html

Probably only friends so they think they get a cheap roof over their head when in the UK.

Some Dutch friends by the looks of it.

You're talking about a motor, and about Suzuki engine parts, it must be a hybrid! Motors run on electricity / oil / air, when it runs on fuel it's an engine.

Nice one indeed. But doesn't beat mine.

This man has a lot of stuff, also intake manifolds or air cleaners, for sale, very reasonable prices.

I just had a look, clutch basket of a GS1000 / GSX1100 have 87 teeth, too much diference unfortunately..

I've read that somewhere too, but are they just as strong as aftermarket ones? I also have a smaller rear wheel, I've got a rear fork off a Bandit 1200 in it, so a smaller rear sprocket is not an option, I also made a hydraulic clutch on it, so a bigger front sprocket is also a bit of an issue.. If I look on the internet, you find billet clutch baskets on the stock gear, straight cut gears on almost stock engines, it's all over the show! But if I spend some money, then all the weak links aren't as weak anymore.

I know, I'm going to put 493 Katana rods on the crank, so I wanted to know before I press the crank apart and together. Clutch is also not a problem, nothing I haven't done before.

Replace the oil, and let it run for a long time! Then replace oil again

It's a GS1000 with a GSX1100 clutch.. I'm not aiming for 200+ HP, but you never know where you end up. Thanks, Straight cut gears are sold for 425 USD, so probably something to spend some $$$ on.

Gents, Not sure if I ask my question here or in Forced induction.. I've built a turbocharger on my GS1000, and what I was afraid of happened, engine destroyed, conrod snapped. Now I'm going to put stronger rods in, but I'm still not sure about the clutch, I had a lock up on it, I didn't had any problems with it. So, how much HP and/or Nm can a stock GSX1100 clutch handle? Thanks.

Ah, ok. Thanks!

Nice! Mate of mine had one, I loved it!

What's wrong with kevlar and carbon frictions? No experience with either off them.. Just curious.

I've had Mikuni RS34's on my GS1000, I didn't noticed if it had more power (from 26 to 34mm), but the throttle response was insane.