p4ddy

Well I did have. Since an enforced update I can no longer find it.

I have all the Suzuki paint codes somewhere on my phone. I'll see if I can post it. I found the code for my RG250 blue which is a kind of purple blue that paint shops can't match. Well not ones I took a panel too. Could be not get 'very close ' but that ain't good enough

I stand corrected, that's good. I'd sleeve rather than drill too.

Think you can only do the clearances whilst engines out?

Yes, regular and vacume. I found out by buying a standard 750 tap then finding it was too small. So bought a pattern 1100 one and run on prime all the time as I've never gotten round to running a vacuum from the vm29's

You've already said in a previous thread it has the larger fuel tap hole so it's an 1100 H/j tank.

The fuel tap hole will tell you if it's UK 750H tank.

You undo the bolt, then put the allen key in to undo one then raise it a bit and do the other. I use one of my RC Heli Allen keys and it takes seconds to get the needle out.

Well it's a 750 G for starters

All around cruising I would stay stock. Occasional hoon go with whatever. I had -1 up front on my slabby 750 for ages but the increased rpm to plod along at 60-80mph were killing me. I then went -1 +3 for a laugh but that didn't last too long. It's now back on stock gearing and that's just right albeit not as much fun as -1+3 lol.

Both 12.3kg. Rear with tyre, no disc, rubbers or hub fitted.. Front with tyre, discs and spindle. Hope this helps.

750 or 1100?? Oops, you said bare...mine are wearing rubbers, and discs, and everything else. Unless it's a typo and was suppose to say spare.

Yep, GT 380 forks are a direct swap. Both the 250 and 380 have 33mm forks. So you get a disc and keep the original looks. Here's a handy list I just found. http://franksforks.com/products/suzuki-fork-tubes/

A GT380 front end may go straight on??

Would this also apply to k1 750 headers on a 750 slabby?