Reinhoud

Nice!!

Jetting has nothing to do with opinions, every bike is different, measuring is the way to go, use an Air / Fuel ratio meter for this (O2 sensor with gauge).

Ah thanks, it was VHT paint I used. Engine is in parts, so that makes it easier. I'll see what I do..

Kill switch is on?

Hi, The crank cases of my GS1000 don't look that flash anymore (probably never did) after 37 years.. Now I see a lot of people who spray paint their engine, but for how long does that look good? I spray painted the rocker cover of my engine, but the paint didn't stick very well, looked like crap after a few weeks. What are the experiences with you guys regarding painting an engine? Thanks!

GSX1100 can also be 34mm.

The tapers must be different, I don't think you fix it just like that.

Electrolysis is the best way to get rust out of a tank, takes quite long, but works absolutely perfect!

Are the studs that far apart, and is there that much material around the crankcase where the liners go in, that you can put such big cylinders on on those engines? My GS1000 has 8.25mm bigger pistons, and that's absolutely the max.

Wrap a garden hose around the block and connect that to the cooling system.

I know the pressure varies a lot, I've done a lot of experimenting. I do have a spring loaded pressure regulator in my system. If you raise the pressure, is the amount off oil still sufficient?

I never heard of those turbochargers, I'm not looking for one, my system works perfect! Just curious how others solved the problem. How do you raise the pressure to 30psi? That with an engine at operating temperature I assume?

Duckndive, can you give me more info regarding the Rajay turbocharger, please? I've never heard off those, not much info on the net. They need less oil as normal turbo chargers?

I had a oil pressure gauge on my bike, when idling the pressure is not even 2 psi, when you give it some revs it gets may be to 10 psi..

Haha, what would you like to know? I'll open a topic soon, scavenge pump is on the crank case again, now the sprockets and support needs to be built in, hopefully that fits straight away..

Thanks. I already have another ratio, I also had a pump (5mm wider) built in from a GSX750 with normal bearings, but even with that the pressure dropped to very low, but higher then with stock pump.

Hi, I was wondering how the turbo builders solved the problem with the low oil pressure on the engines with a roller bearing crank. Mostly just out of curiosity, and may be I can get an idea for my own bike. I've build 2 oil pumps on my GS1000 engine, one scavenge and one to feed the turbo charger, both driven by the stock oil pump from which I extended the shaft. A con rod snapped off and ruined the crankcase, so now I'm busy trying to build everything over on another set off crankcases, but castings are never the same, so it's a little bit of a challenge..

Don't go for cheap, usually the quality is not good! I speak from experience.

Usually I hate it when people reply who know nothing about it, but no one else has replied yet... I don't know, but the US is quite strict with emissions and stuff, usually because off that a lot of imported vehicles in the US have less power as other countries, may be that has something to do with it?

That's why I asked.

Weight distribution, is that measured with or without rider?

Fiber plates within specs is no guarantee for not slipping! Did you also use the shims under the springs to raise the spring load?

Ok, I also made a wider oil pump in the engine, one from a GSX750 with plain bearings, when the engine was cold the oil pressure was high enough, as soon as the oil came at operating temperature the pressure dropped till only a little bit above the pressure with the stock pump. On another forum there was a guy who turbo'd a GS850, he used an electric pump. I was thinking off that too, but I wasn't sure if my alternator could feed a fuel and an oil pump together. I did upgrade the alternator.

Thanks. I built 2 pumps on the engine, a scavenge pump on the left side off the engine, I extended the shaft off the oil pump to the other side off the engine, and I made a new bottom plate, and on that I made the turbo feed pump, driven through a sprocket from the extended oil pump shaft. Turbo charger was for a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III, but that was a little bit too big, full torque at 5000rpm. I'm busy with a new set off crank cases, I'm busy building the scavenge pump back on, but these crankcases are slightly different as the previous set, scavenge pump doesn't fit as good as the previous set. As soon as the scavenge pump is on I'll open a topic about it.

GS1000, 1245cc big bore - 8:1 - 11 or 12 psi, revs limited at 9000rpm. But the turbocharger was an El cheapo what I most likely ruined before I had it on the road. I had 135Nm and 150 hp, much lower as expected, I put mine on the dyno to see it the carbies were adjusted ok. Carbies needed quite some bigger main jets, after the dyno I also played with the ignition timing........ And then.... then the power came!!! Insane, and then the con rod snapped at 180km/h on the local industrial area...... I felt like crying.... I had a lot off bad luck with my project, bike smoked a lot, first I had another head on it, a gas flowed one with twin spark, beautifully done, piece off art! With that head the bike went off it's tits, from 90 to 240km/h in 300 meters in top gear, fish tailing at 110km/h in 3rd when I opened it up to quick, from 80 to 160km/h in about 3 seconds.. With the stock head the bike wasn't as fast. But the bearing caps didn't match the head, I had to make it work. Therefor I put the stock head back on. (After I made it a twin spark.)