Reinhoud

If a Bandit 1200 rear fork with RF900 wheel fits in a GS1000, you should be able to get done what you want to do. Think in solutions, not in problems.

http://www.Eblag.com/itm/Profi-SE-CAT-Motorcycle-Chain-Alignment-Tool-Dot-Laser-Type-/381151627819?hash=item58be684a2b:g:jvYAAOSwRLZT9Lm~ Put aligner on front sprocket, because when you put it on the rear sprocket and the wheel isn't straight, you go wrong.

So, your carrier is too much out? If so, take the spacer out of the back wheel, put carrier in the wheel, and measure if there is any difference, so, if the carrier wants to go in deeper. Did you measure if the chain can go more to the center? (Closer to the tyre)

What's the issue then? I life for 7 years in Tasmania (I'm Dutch) , but the English English what is used in this forum is quite often very hard to understand..

Oh, you want to know the calculations? T1 x Z1 = T2 x Z2 T = rpm, Z = amount of teeth. Now you need to know the gear ratio's in your engine. Pi x D = circumference wheel, do this in cm, calculate back to meters. say rpm off back wheel is 2000rpm, say the circumference is 214cm, is 2.14 meter 2000 x 2.14 = 4280 meters per minute. 4280 meters is 4.28 kilometers Now you have to go from minutes to hours, is times 60 4.28 x 60 is 256.8 km/h So if your back wheel is going at 2000rpm, you're going 256 km/h

My GS1000 goes a little faster, stock gear ratio, but smaller back wheel, feels like I have a close ratio box, quite nice. I've got a 170 tyre in it, wider doesn't work in mine. I made the back wheel in the center off the frame, made the sprocket carrier as close to the tyre as possible, and then align the front (off set) sprocket, measure what size spacer I needed. I did it with string too, I thought I did a good job, till I checked it with a laser, it was a centimeter out. Doesn't sound much, but the stress on the out going shaft off the gear box will be a lot less!

No, it would make finding one easier..

Don't use string, it looks accurate, till you check it with a laser... What do you mean with the numbers, what sizes are that? From what?

I've got a GS1000 carrier in a RF900 wheel, that's in a Bandit 1200 rear fork in a GS1000. Not an answer to your question, but may be it helps you .. The carrier fitted 1:1, but I think I had to make up spacers/bushes to get the right distance. (It's been about 7 years ago I did this) Get a laser aligner, this will help you to perfectly determine how to set things up. Put laser aligner on front sprocket.

Does a GS1000 one fit?

Yep, but it's just a way to make it a little bit more fool proof, if you have the marks on the fly wheel, you have a good reference/starting point, so you can focus more on the cam timing.. I can be a little chaotic sometimes. Focusing on one point, and then forgetting to give other things the attention they need.. If you get what I mean.

What where your experiences with different timing?

I had webcams grind 119 in the GS1000, 2mm more lift if I'm right, timing should be close to stock. (if that is possible with more lift) That the bike had forced induction is not relevant, just wanted to share my experience. With "on boost hardly any difference", I mean, doesn't matter what the cam timing was, on boost the power was almost the same

When I was busy with the turbocharger on my bike some told me to experiment with the cam timing, so I did.. Result, didn't matter if a made the overlap bigger or smaller, it lost power, throttle response was crap, and on boost there was hardly any difference. Bike ran at it's best on the stock timing, but maybe others have different experiences.

You don't need a degree wheel to determine your TDC. Assuming your fly wheel cover is off and fly wheel is visable. - Make a pointer and mount that in one of the bolt holes, make pointer so that it's close on top of the flywheel, make point on the pointer. - Take piston stop and turn that into spark plug hole - Turn fly wheel to one side till piston hits stop. - Mark with marker on the fly wheel where pointer is. - Turn fly wheel the other side till piston hits stop. - Mark again where pointer is on fly wheel - take a ruler and mark the center of the 2 marks, this is your TDC. - Off course it's all about how accurate you do this. My experience, as long as you set everything on the stock marks it's ok, I didn't notice any difference after dialing in. (trying to improve stock setting that is)

Nice project. Tip; use a laser aligner to align/check the front and rear sprocket, it's the only way to do it right, you might think you it right, till you check it with a laser.. Clamp laser on the front sprocket. When I rebuild my bike I aligned it with a piece of string, I thought I did a good job, turned out it was over a cm out.

Nice! Is the frame from a GS1000? Doesn't look like it, or is it just a GS1000 engine?

Water cooling is only build in because people didn't let cool down the turbo charger before turning their car off..

I had a TD05 16G from an EVO III, full torque at 5000rpm. Not what you asked for, but may be you can use it as a reference what a TD05 would do.

Nice! Uhm, Calling a bike from 1985 a dinosaur? What will you call my GS1000 from 1979?

-Flow is important. (But you say that later on) -You don't choke the fuel pump more, in a car the pump is choked to about 2.5 to 3 bar, on a bike the pump is choked to about 1 to 1.5 bar, depending on boost level, so why would fuel temp go up? -If you don't like RRRegs, how then adapt the pressure to wanted levels? That's what I mean I don't understand..

Oops, misunderstood you.. I think, if I remember correctly, the pressure plate comes out about 2mm when you pull the lever. (I built a clutch control from a Bandit on my GS1000)

I might be misunderstanding you, but a lot what you wrote down doesn't make sense to me..

No clue what kind of engine (Bandit 1200?), but does it has a hydraulic controlled clutch? If yes, it doesn't have any clearance.. If it's a Bandit 1200 it has a hydraulic controlled clutch, as far as my information goes, then it hasn't got any clearance.