Reinhoud

A fuel pump from a car what produces over about 200hp should be fine, for a fuel pressure regulator you need a Rising Rate Fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR), Maplpassi has good ones.

Before putting carbs back on, put fuel line on carbies, hold them up side down, and blow with your mouth into the fuel line. You should have no leak.

Ah, pod filters! That makes it a lot different. Start with about 30/35% bigger jets, and then see where you're at.

You can't see on the spark plugs if an engine is tuned right, a lot of people see you can, but my experience is not. I've ridden quite a while with a A/F gauge. The only proper way to see if it's tuned right is to use an A/F gauge.

I also thought that APE is Tsubaki

This morning I spent some time behind my little lathe, just some improvements on the bottom plate. The shaft driven by the extended shaft had too much clearance, also the bush in the oil pump was separate from the bush in the "tower", therefor it didn't turn smooth the first time I put all together and I had to make it all go smooth, because off that it got too much clearance, not a lot, but enough to spent some time on it. Also I had to make a spacer to get the gear at the right height, I didn't like that either, therefor I made the top bush a little bit longer so I can leave the spacer. So, bashed the old bushes out, turn new bushes, and tap those back in, all fits and works perfect, I'm happy with it, less parts, less clearance, better alignment, and it turns more smooth. Next thing is to improve the oil pressure regulator, it works, but it leaks, and I think/hope it can work better, better adjustable. I also should send out my tax return papers so I can order the con rods..

I'm not saying they're good or worn! Just reporting the clearances of the bearings on my crank.

so an intercooler is something I should look into.. See if I can find something small enough. Thanks guys

don't know yet, I want a smaller turbo as what I had, probably around 1 bar of boost.

Just checked the bearings on the crank I have laying around, they have between 0.01 and 0.02 mm clearance.

Gents, Before my engine blew up I didn't have an intercooler on my bike. Anyone here who has experience with having and not having an intercooler on their bike? Now I have to rebuilt it, I'm thinking of building on my bike, although I hardly have any room for it. Mostly curious how much difference having an intercooler is. Thanks.

To measure, you can put the crank in a lathe, or something else to hold it, and then with put a dial indicator on the bearing and move it. I'll have a look with my crank, I've got 2 floating around.

If it hydraulic locked the conrods would have been bent.

Is it all stock? I have the impression it isn't.. I built a monoshock in my GS1000, a FEW centimeters difference in length / distance on the pivot points can make a hell of a lot difference, you probably have to experiment.

Side ways, yes! Radial, a little, about a few hundreds of a mm. Hopefully someone here knows a more accurate number.

I don't know much about electrics, I do know those alternators don't crank out much, not sure if they crank out enough to feed an extra fuel pump and scavenge pump.. I'm sure there is someone else who knows a lot more about that stuff as me.

Also, you have to have a fuel pump running, and then an oil pump, can the alternator handle that?

What I did myself with VHT didn't last long either, I did it according to the instructions, it stays on, but when you rub it it comes off. I think I leave it like it is..

Powder coating? I was under the impression that couldn't stand any heat.. Ceramic coating is way too expensive.

I built mine on the left side of the cranck case, I extended the drive shaft from the oil pump. I used the pump gears from a stock oil pump, made the housing myself. What gixxer1460 sys is probably the easiest way to do. I did built a pump like that too, but that was to feed the turbo, but that didn't work because off all that pressure I had leaks (this was more my own fault - it was in the experimental phase), but as a scavenge pump it should work.

There's only one way, a O2 sensor with gauge.

Thanks guys. @ Gixxer1460; I didn't want an electric oil feed and scavenge pump, wasn't sure if the alternator could handle that, and those pumps are reasonably big, so mechanical was preferred, a decision to extend the drive shaft from the oil pump was soon made, figuring out how to do it was the challenge. (those little sprocket costed me $90!) This was the only way to do it, room was also the issue. Bottom plate is 5mm thick, that "tower" is screwed in the bottom plate, and then secured with 3 M6 bolts, it's all quite sturdy. Scavenge pump is also a few mm wider as the feed pump, idea was that the wider pump moves more oil from turbo charger into sump as the feed pump moves from sump to turbo. I had it all disconnected, feed line and scavenge line into a measuring jug, and then fire up the engine, jug stayed almost empty, all works absolutely perfect!

Gents, A few years back I started to build a turbo charger on my already rebuild GS1000. A had a lot of bad luck, but in the end I had it going.... and then I got some more bad luck.. I had the bike on the dyno and it cranked out only 150hp on the rear wheel, still 60hp more as without turbo. Main reason to put it on the dyno was to see how the carbies were adjusted, bike was running way to lean! After fiddling around with the carbies and advancing the ignition the bike came back to life, it was even faster as the first time I had it going, it lifted it's front wheel in 3rd while not even on boost. It had never done that before, hence, this bike weighs at least 260kgs. Same day/night (friday the 13th - seriously) I took it for a test ride at the local industrial area, at about 180km/h I wanted to shift into 4th gear and I miss shifted, I heard a bang and then RRRRRRRRRR, and it lost power..... Then, a lot of words you never hear in the bible.. Con rod gave up, destroyed the crank case, and one piston, valve shim came out what destroyed the rocker cover, long story short, I felt like crying... ;) . Was in doubt for quite a while if I wanted to rebuild it with or without turbo, decided to rebuild it with turbo, or else it would be a waste of my previous efforts, and that turbo power, it's addictive, but the turbo riders know that. GS1000 has a roller bearing crank, means these engines have hardly any oil pressure, about 6 psi at a lot of revs, not enough for a turbo charger, I have been playing around with it, oil pump gears from a GS750 in it, restrictor in the feed line to the gearbox didn't help much, I even build a 5mm wider pump from a GSX750 with plain bearings in the crank case, but even that raised the oil pressure not high enough, then I decided to put some effort in it (and lots, and lots of time)... At that time I worked at a place with a lathe and a milling machine, so I build a new bottom plate with a turbo feed pump incl. oil pressure regulator, and a scavenge pump on the side of the crank case. To my surprise this worked absolutely perfect, of all the trouble I had with my bike, all the handy work I did myself worked ok. So after the crank case got destroyed I had to build everything over to the other set off crankcases I have, there was quite some difference in the 2 sets of crankcases, but now I have the 2nd set finished. - The GS has a 1245cc big bore kit (78,25mm) with JE pistons, CR 8:1, 34mm GSX1100 carbies. - I extended the drive shaft of the oil pump to the other side of the cranck case, milled material from the outside of the crank case, bolted a home made scavenge pump on it. - I mounted a 90 degree sprocket on the drive shaft, and the rest you can see in the photo's. - On the sprocket side of the drive shaft I cut about 4mm of thread and screwed a nut on and welded the nut on the shaft, reason being, while I was busy fitting it in I tapped the shaft, and the clip fell of straight away... Then I got scared that clip falling off while engine was running (what didn't happen before) and causing havoc, and decided to play it save. Plan is to rebuild a stock crank with 493 Katana rods, billet clutch basket and reinforced backing plate and straight cut gears, this is all very expensive, but I can't afford another time it goes wrong. With all that it should be able to handle at least 300hp. I'm not aiming to get that kind off power, if I get it at the same level as when it f*cked up I'm happy, main goal is to keep it in one piece. I've got a bad paid job, and I'm busy fixing up my Land Rover (Discovery V8), so it's going to take some time before it's going again. I'll keep you informed. Bottom plate needs to be cleaned, and I want to spend some time on the oil pressure regulator, crank up the pressure a little. note; seat isn't finished yet Also a photo included of the &750.000 machine I milled the side of the crank case off

Impressive! What's the max diameter sleeves / pistons in a stock cylinder block off that engine?